I think my Jotul has a leak

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wahoowad

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2005
1,669
Virginia
I've had and used my Jotul F3CB for 1.5 burning seasons. I purchased it new Dec-2005. I'm convinced I have a leak that results in air coming in from the right rear lower corner. I say this because I frequently see it drawing flames towards the corner as combustion is fed from a fresh air source (leak). I have always seen more combustion and more active flames on this side of the stove compared to the other side (slower, lazier flames), particularly from this back right corner. At times that corner is sooted up, but not always.

My concern is this leak upsets the delicate balance of how the stove was designed to burn and hence burns less efficiently and somewhat faster. Even now as I'm 2/3 of the way through a burn cycle I definitely see brighter colored, more active flames on the right side than the left.

The stove certainly is not unusable, and otherwise I'm getting satisfactory heat output and stovetop temps (although I do get different readings depending on the side I put the thermometer). I'm left wondering "what if" it burned even better without this possible leak? Has a gasket or cement failed where the side or back plates plates are assembled? I've tried smoke tests (and cursory visual inspections) but there usually are other air currents going on (drafty house, rising heat) so I can't seem to do a smoke or flame test to see if the stove is drawing air in unusual places.

My Jotul says it has a 5 year warranty but excludes gaskets if due to normal wear and tear. I haven't talked to my dealer yet but he's been a snake before so I need to be prepared! Any ideas as to how this air could be coming in? Or is it something totally different?

Thanks!
 
wahoowad said:
I've had and used my Jotul F3CB for 1.5 burning seasons. I purchased it new Dec-2005. I'm convinced I have a leak that results in air coming in from the right rear lower corner. I say this because I frequently see it drawing flames towards the corner as combustion is fed from a fresh air source (leak). I have always seen more combustion and more active flames on this side of the stove compared to the other side (slower, lazier flames), particularly from this back right corner. At times that corner is sooted up, but not always.
Yup, sounds like you've sniffed out a leak somewhere.

The stove certainly is not unusable, and otherwise I'm getting satisfactory heat output and stovetop temps (although I do get different readings depending on the side I put the thermometer). I'm left wondering "what if" it burned even better without this possible leak?
It definitely would.
Has a gasket or cement failed where the side or back plates plates are assembled?
As you've probably already surmised, leaks on cast iron stoves occur at plate joints. I know I've been a lone voice on this board about it, but having bought or helped install 4 new Jotuls last year, I found their quality control to be simply awful. Every one of them had major issues (loose plates, gaps in the cement, misaligned assemblies, etc.) The dealer and customer "service" both acted like I was showing them something they'd never seen before and made no effort to help solve.

My Jotul says it has a 5 year warranty but excludes gaskets if due to normal wear and tear. I haven't talked to my dealer yet but he's been a snake before so I need to be prepared! Any ideas as to how this air could be coming in? Or is it something totally different?
What I did a few months ago with by F602 was to thin some stove cement and run a bead of it into every joint. Obviously the stove has to be cold and unplugged to do this effectively. But it made a huge difference.

But before you do something like that, check the alignment of your top lid. The F3's are known to have issues with the top seating properly. I think BG had a thread here with photos, do a search. And good luck.
 
First I would very carefully inspect the ash pan door seal. Look to see if any characol became embedded in the gasket. Then do the dollar bill test. Also make sure there isn't an accumulation of ash behind the ashpan that is pushing the ashpan forward and preventing the door from closing tightly. Repeat the same inspection procedure for the door seal.
 
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