Ideal Steel may not fit.....Help!

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There is some wiggle room. The leading/top edge of the door can be up almost 1" from the wide open position and still allow the ashpan to be removed. Too many coals to dally while picture taking...

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Clearances related to heat, as mentioned above, need to be considered.
 
He's on concrete floor I don't think there is too much to worry about heat unless perhaps he has insulation in the concrete?

I just checked how much play there is before you can't remove the ash pan. Just like Flamestead's ASH except for the different angle in the handle...
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There is about 1" between the bottom of the ash pan and the edge of the door. However the door handle doesn't move up a whole inch due to the pivoting effect and that the inside edge of the door handle is inward a few inches. I measured that the lowest point of the door handle moves up a smidgen over 1/2" higher when the door makes contact with the bottom of ash pan.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. I think I can make it work. I'm only about 1/2" away, and I think I can get that by adding an extra set of holes between the lowest setting of 24.5" vent pipe center and the 25.5" setting in the second hole. Running the vent pipe slightly below level (downhill out of the stove) shouldn't make that much difference if that turns out to be the case. I opened my clean out door last night, and it sucked the spider webs up the flue so the draft is good (inside chimney). If I have 1/2" or so clearance on the ash pan, I'll be happy. It's 50 year old concrete, and my current stove is almost on the floor, too so the concrete is very hot under it all the time with no problems.
 
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So you going to pull the trigger? Right now looks to be the highest discount of the season. Couldn't you chisel away some brick to make room for the pipe. Definitely need the ashpan, I may need to get an ideal steel I'm tired of the tv room being covered in a light layer of ash.
 
If you don't need the large firebox the absolute looks lower not sure on the specs.
 
So you going to pull the trigger? Right now looks to be the highest discount of the season. Couldn't you chisel away some brick to make room for the pipe. Definitely need the ashpan, I may need to get an ideal steel I'm tired of the tv room being covered in a light layer of ash.
Yea.....probably will. Can't let 1/2" scare me away. I think I can make it work.
 
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If you don't need the large firebox the absolute looks lower not sure on the specs.
A quick look at their website shows the ASH flue centerline at 28.25" vs the ISH at 24.5-29.5". I'm not sure if the ASH specs are set in stone yet or not.

And good luck Crosscut, that is a big gamble to get the stove with specs that close!
 
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A quick look at their website shows the ASH flue centerline at 28.25"
Short-leg kit, minus 2", 26.25. I need an additional inch to get under my lintel at 28.5". Then I might have to remove or alter some hearth tiles to get the ash door open. If I decide to pull the trigger, I will make it work. ==c
 
[QUOTE=" If I decide to pull the trigger, I will make it work." ==c[/QUOTE]
Yea....I'm with you. Lower the floor, raise the house.....whatever it takes. Worst case: I can cover the grate with metal and fire bricks and put the ash pan on the floor with zero clearance. Where there's a will, there's a way.
 
Worst case: I can cover the grate with metal and fire bricks
Whoa, hold on there Pahdnah! I'm not givin' up the grate! I can't....I won't! ==c
 
Whoa, hold on there Pahdnah! I'm not givin' up the grate! I can't....I won't! ==c
I don't like the idea either, but it would still allow me to take advantage of all the other "add-ons" that Woodstock has in the sale package right now. If I order without the pan, it becomes an a la carte production order. They told me they had the full package on sale....no substitutions or removing options. I think they are making room for the new model production line.
 
Your going to have to modify the leg covers or cut slots too. They fit into specific slots at the top sides of the stove. Otherwise, the covers may have a gap at the bottom.
 
Good catch there JA, if the legs are modified the 'fenders' that go over must be too. But they are not simple holes and bolts, they have a little hanger tabs that go into notches cut at the same intervals. Would probably be simpler just to trim off the bottom by a half inch or whatever you need, but unlike adding a set of holes to the legs, there is no going back after that mod. But I would not recommend drilling new holes either - they look to be 3/8" holes with only 5/8" between. If you cut a new hole perfectly centered, that is only 1/8" of material left around the holes. I'd probably see what you can get away with the ash pan not opening all the way (and maybe modding the handle), and seeing if it would draft ok at a slight decline if it were me, and then resorting to trimming the legs and fenders as a last step.
 
Good catch there JA, if the legs are modified the 'fenders' that go over must be too. But they are not simple holes and bolts, they have a little hanger tabs that go into notches cut at the same intervals. Would probably be simpler just to trim off the bottom by a half inch or whatever you need, but unlike adding a set of holes to the legs, there is no going back after that mod. But I would not recommend drilling new holes either - they look to be 3/8" holes with only 5/8" between. If you cut a new hole perfectly centered, that is only 1/8" of material left around the holes. I'd probably see what you can get away with the ash pan not opening all the way (and maybe modding the handle), and seeing if it would draft ok at a slight decline if it were me, and then resorting to trimming the legs and fenders as a last step.
Yep. That's the plan. Easy stuff first. I'm going to install a Flex King HD smooth liner, and the chimney is about 23' high. It drafts like crazy now, so I only expect improvement with the liner. I'm hoping a slight downhill run won't hurt anything......we'll see.
 
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Short-leg kit, minus 2", 26.25. I need an additional inch to get under my lintel at 28.5". Then I might have to remove or alter some hearth tiles to get the ash door open. If I decide to pull the trigger, I will make it work. ==c

Well, now we know the answer. The stove was installed yesterday and is at the next to last height setting. The lowest setting would put the ash pan about 1/4" off of the floor, but the handle and hinge prevent the ash pan door from opening. However, putting the exhaust stack on upside down actually lowers it an additional inch +/-. The result is the TOP of the outlet pipe being around 27 3/4" from the floor. It worked on my 28" lintel with a 1/4" to spare. I was worried about draft initially, but the flow blew the flame sideways on a butane lighter on a 50 degree day.

It didn't take long to figure out that this stove is a heating beast!
 
However, putting the exhaust stack on upside down actually lowers it an additional inch +/-. The result is the TOP of the outlet pipe being around 27 3/4" from the floor. It worked on my 28" lintel with a 1/4" to spare. I was worried about draft initially, but the flow blew the flame sideways on a butane lighter on a 50 degree day.
Great! Glad to hear it's working well. :cool: Are you saying that the flue collar piece can be mounted it two different positions, resulting in two different exit heights when rear-vented? I wonder if the same applies to the AS?
 
Great! Glad to hear it's working well. :cool: Are you saying that the flue collar piece can be mounted it two different positions, resulting in two different exit heights when rear-vented? I wonder if the same applies to the AS?

Yep. Look at a picture on the internet and you can easily see that the centerline of the outlet is not in the center of the mounting pattern.....the "funnel" is one sided. The hole pattern allows for that, and one of the customer service folks at Woodstock mentioned that it was possible but could affect draft. It was a lifesaver for me. I didn't try it the intended way, so I cannot say if it affected draft or not. If your draft is that marginal, there are other issues to deal with.

Not sure about the AS. Could be a completely different assembly.
 
Awesome. Good to hear it worked out for you. You will be warm next winter for sure. Got pix?
 
Well, now we know the answer. The stove was installed yesterday and is at the next to last height setting. The lowest setting would put the ash pan about 1/4" off of the floor, but the handle and hinge prevent the ash pan door from opening. However, putting the exhaust stack on upside down actually lowers it an additional inch +/-. The result is the TOP of the outlet pipe being around 27 3/4" from the floor. It worked on my 28" lintel with a 1/4" to spare. I was worried about draft initially, but the flow blew the flame sideways on a butane lighter on a 50 degree day.

It didn't take long to figure out that this stove is a heating beast!
Glad you went ahead with it, now I know it would have fit into my fireplace and I'm gonna give myself a good kick in the ass, I love my PH but would have preferred the IS.
 
What liner did you end up with I hope the heavy wall?
 
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