Impressed

[Vic99]

So I've been using a electric chainsaw (Remmington 4 hp, 18" bar) for over a year. I just made the switch to the Stihl 290 with a 16" bar. What a difference! I knew it would be better, but not this good. Plus, whenever I have a problem, I refer to the manual. The manual is spot on with its solutions. (How to deal with a flooded engine, effectiveness of sharpening the chain, etc.)

I'm still learning how to use this thing properly. Most of what I cut is less than 20". I find that tinkering and learning about the saw still consumes a lot of time (maybe because I have a respect for it) Any advice for a beginner to gas power?

 

[chad3]

Start slow and for the most part the trees will lean the way they will go. Also have a few wedges and either an ax or a small sledge to hit them in with. This goes above the whole protective equipment you always need.
Chad

 

[kevin j]

Stihl has a good one hour video on selecting, using, maintaining a saw. It is $5 + shipping. I am told they also have it available on their website to download for free.

Baileys has several good books.

Chainsaw Manual training book by APA, mid 80's, is great on falling and hinging techniques, although some of it is geared to softwood logging that is now mechanized.

k

 

[hoot gibson]

99. remember the most important thing . one wrong slip , and you will bleed to death befor you can get a signal on your cell phone. hearing protection . eye protection . face shield ( even if you have trouble spitting on it when you chew, like me) and a pair of chaps . hoot

 

[BrotherBart]

99. remember the most important thing . one wrong slip , and you will bleed to death befor you can get a signal on your cell phone. hearing protection . eye protection . face shield ( even if you have trouble spitting on it when you chew, like me) and a pair of chaps . hoot

You don't even have to chew for the spitting advice to be handy. Hard to remember pulling up out of a long tough cut, but handy never the less.

 

[Vic99]

Good advice. I'll check out that video this week.

I have all the protective gear. I respect the chainsaw more than a firearm. Haven't lived long enough to bleed out. My wife makes fun of me in the chaps, though.

Have to pick up some wedges.

Mostly I'll be bucking what I scrounge. I took down 10 inch birch last month with my electric that a neighbor wanted removed. Nothing near it to hit, except me. I expect to thin three or four 10-14 inch elms on my property this spring to favor my young sugar maples and get a better view or a river. Doesn't seem to be tricky. No structures nearby.

Thanks

 

[hornett22]

your electric bill should go down at least.those electric saws scare me.

 

[titan]

Be careful...safety chaps will bind up and stall a gas-fed saw;I'm not so sure how they'd work under an electric saw.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Chainsaw Manual training book by APA, mid 80's, is great on falling and hinging techniques, although some of it is geared to softwood logging that is now mechanized.

k

LOL How do you get APA and actually cutting a tree in the same sentance???

 

[kevin j]

LOL How do you get APA and actually cutting a tree in the same sentance???


ok what am I missing-my imagination runs amok...... I know of at least the Amer Psychol Assoc, but this one was Amer Pulpwood Assoc. Thinking authors name was RP Skarna or skarma or something. Can't find on google or amazon right now, but was in our public library at least I saw it up until a couple years back.

 

[savageactor7]

Sounds like the worm has turned for Clownfish...enjoy your new saw.

 

[woodconvert]

I'm still learning how to use this thing properly. Most of what I cut is less than 20". I find that tinkering and learning about the saw still consumes a lot of time (maybe because I have a respect for it) Any advice for a beginner to gas power?

Continue to respect it, don't cut up through a log with only the tip of your bar and know where your feet are in relation to the chain at all times. Hang on to it like you don't want it to jump out of your hands and let er' rip!.

 

[Vic99]

All great advice. Thanks.

At this point I've gone through almost a gallon of gas for the saw. Although touching up the chain 1-2 per saw tank makes a difference, I'm clearly noticing that I can't get the chain as sharp as when it was new. Obviously. How often to you typically replace a chain if cutting mainly hardwood, assuming no mishaps like hitting a rock etc.? After 1 gallon of fuel, 5? I'm using a safety chain, 16 inch bar.

 

[savageactor7]

Get rid of the safety chain...those are for suburbanite guys hanging on ladders occasionally trimming trees ...your making production bucking logs. I know that stihl didn't come with a safety chain.

Also my advice is to get rid of those spiked bumpers if you have them on...with a new chain you should have gone through 5-10 tanks just bucking provided you keep the tip out of the dirt. Too many operators will use those spiked bumpers to strong arm the saw through the wood. that saw will cut it's own way through the logs without any pressure assistance what so ever...don't rush and let the chainsaw and the chainsaw only do the cutting.

 

[woodconvert]

I'm clearly noticing that I can't get the chain as sharp as when it was new.

Practice...you'll get it

How often to you typically replace a chain if cutting mainly hardwood, assuming no mishaps like hitting a rock etc.?

At cutting approx 25+ face cords a year i've had them last 3 years....but they can also last 12seconds if you do it right :sick:

 

[BrotherBart]

At cutting approx 25+ face cords a year i've had them last 3 years....but they can also last 12seconds if you do it right :sick:

Ain't it the truth. Put a brand new chain on the big saw a few years ago. Started it, turned around facing the huge pile of logs on the construction site and proceeded in less than 12 seconds to find the chunk of concrete with rebar hidden behind the first log.

 

[DeerMeadowFarm]

At cutting approx 25+ face cords a year i've had them last 3 years....but they can also last 12seconds if you do it right :sick:

Ain't it the truth. Put a brand new chain on the big saw a few years ago. Started it, turned around facing the huge pile of logs on the construction site and proceeded in less than 12 seconds to find the chunk of concrete with rebar hidden behind the first log.

Been there, done that... Probably didn't swear too much I bet?

 

[jeffman3]

I was helping my uncle cut out some saplings against some foundations on the property I cut wood on. I touched the foundation with the chain once, just one spark, but I immediately shut the saw down and changed out the chain. I took it in and had it sharpened. Took allot more of the teeth off then I thought. The chain is still serviceable, but I cut the life of that chain in half at least I'm guessing. The elm we cut is very hard on chains! It is loaded with sand and grit. I am lucky to get 1 1/2 pickup loads per chain before I need to take them in and have them sharpened. Yes I have that job done, It doesn't cost much and they are just as sharp as when they are new! The guys at the shop, hardware store, saw dealer, are truly top notch! When you walk in there is always some one to help you with anything you need there. They all know their stuff, and are more then willing to help out. Customer service like that you just don't find anymore. :wow: That is why I chose the Husky over the Stihl. The people in the store/ shop, and their reputation for personal service.

 

[woodconvert]

At cutting approx 25+ face cords a year i've had them last 3 years....but they can also last 12seconds if you do it right :sick:

Ain't it the truth. Put a brand new chain on the big saw a few years ago. Started it, turned around facing the huge pile of logs on the construction site and proceeded in less than 12 seconds to find the chunk of concrete with rebar hidden behind the first log.

I gnarled up a brand new chisel chain on my 046 helping out my dad last winter. There was a storm blew through and knocked over a dead elm. It went across his driveway so I cut it so they could get out (and took the burnable parts off his hands ;-P ). Anyhow, when it fell across the driveway one side of the tree had some snow on it. I brushed some of the snow to make sure it was all snow and let er' rip....I made a couple cuts before I found the stones that were buried in the snow stuck to the side of the tree :red: . Needless to say....that brand new chain reached it's half life on it's maiden voyage. Real pisser that was.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

LOL How do you get APA and actually cutting a tree in the same sentance???


ok what am I missing-my imagination runs amok...... I know of at least the Amer Psychol Assoc, but this one was Amer Pulpwood Assoc. Thinking authors name was RP Skarna or skarma or something. Can't find on google or amazon right now, but was in our public library at least I saw it up until a couple years back.

LMAO that explains it. . .where I come from APA=AdirondackParkAgency . . . clearly the biggest bunch of tree huggers on the planet. Sorry about the mix up :red:

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Clown&^%- I got the Dremel saw sharpening attachment. It works great. At Northerntool you can get an electric sharpener for like $35- I can't vouch for the quality, but they have a variety of prices too (as much as you wanna spend).

I fully sharpen with the Dremel after 3 tanks of gas (my tank is a bit smaller than yours). I never remember to flip the bah. I put the stock safety chain through maybe 10 cord of oak before I got a reasonable chain.

With a 290 and a 16" bar, each tooth sees the wood a bit more often than my saw with an 18" bar- probably not enough to make a difference.

Remember- if it's throwing "dust" rather than little chips or curls, then you need to take the depth down a bit on the chain. If it cuts at an angle all the time- that could also be the depth- at least that fixed that problem for me years ago.