In the market for another Stihl Chainsaw.

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chvymn99

Minister of Fire
Nov 20, 2010
652
Kansas
Ok, just trying to get all my ducks lined up so that I can have the ability to be proficient at getting wood for my stove. I just hate to be asking about borrowing things, rather just buy it and be done with it.

I've got the Stihl 290 for about 4 yrs now. Its done everything that I've asked for it too do, but I think I want to have the ability to go bigger on those certain logs. I've been looking at the 361 & 362, but they only go to a 25" bar. But then I looked at the 440 that handles a 32" bar. Do I really need to go to 32" or will a 25" be sustainable? But then I ask myself the 25" bar is only 5" greater than my 20" bar currently. The price difference between the 361/361 & 440 is quite a bit, just dont know if I can justify the price difference. If the 25" would be good enough for the 95-99% of the jobs?
 
441 440 044.....It is a big jump. Not dogging the 361, but that 440 is just a hotter saw. 28 is a good allround bar for it as well.
 
Well, you'll have to buy a 440 used since they aren't made anymore, that should help with the price difference.

70cc saws are awesome and will blow your doors off compared to the 290. Depending on how big of wood you get into, I'd run a 20" on the 70cc and have a 28" for the occassional big tree. Put the farm boss on the shelf.
 
In my opinoin, I would go for the 441. I have a 310, dad has a 360 pro. I don't have a 441 (or similar), so take this for what it's worth. I've found the difference from my 310 to the 360 is not enough to justify buying a 361 for the increse in performance. I know the 360 is lighter and has a bit more power, but if I'm going ot spend the cash, I'm going to buy something that is a lot faster through the log. One of these days I'll have the cash and find a 441/440/046 or even an 066 or 064 to add to my collection.
 
I'd say go for the 440/441/044 and get both the 25" and 28" bars. Probably will run the 25" 90% of the time but will have the 28" for when you need it.

Peek around on ebay/CL for used saws. They seem to hold their value well. You could probably get $200-250 for your 290 depending on condition and into a 440 for ~ $500-600.

Good luck and let us know what you decide. I'm in a similar boat myself and see myself upgrading to something in the 4-- in the next 6-8 months but need to play with my new 260 for awhile first.
 
HittinSteel said:
Well, you'll have to buy a 440 used since they aren't made anymore, that should help with the price difference.

70cc saws are awesome and will blow your doors off compared to the 290. Depending on how big of wood you get into, I'd run a 20" on the 70cc and have a 28" for the occassional big tree. Put the farm boss on the shelf.

+1 but reverse the bars...lol
 
I agree with others. If you really want to step up from the Farmboss, go 70cc class. Otherwise run what you've got & you can handle some big wood now & then, just not fast.
 
Ya, it would be the 441 instead of the 440 (newer model?). Which is a 70cc engine also. So you would go with two blades length 25" & 28". So essentially I could get rid of the 290 and get a small, medium, and large blade for the saw? Wow, thats cool. I'm new enough it never dawned on me to be switching out the blade. Thanks. Keep on giving Opinions and Experiences.
 
chvymn99 said:
Ya, it would be the 441 instead of the 440 (newer model?). Which is a 70cc engine also. So you would go with two blades length 25" & 28". So essentially I could get rid of the 290 and get a small, medium, and large blade for the saw? Wow, thats cool. I'm new enough it never dawned on me to be switching out the blade. Thanks. Keep on giving Opinions and Experiences.

lol 2 bar length's....20 and 28 is the best for that saw. 3 inchs isnt worth the effort!
 
smokinjay said:
chvymn99 said:
Ya, it would be the 441 instead of the 440 (newer model?). Which is a 70cc engine also. So you would go with two blades length 25" & 28". So essentially I could get rid of the 290 and get a small, medium, and large blade for the saw? Wow, thats cool. I'm new enough it never dawned on me to be switching out the blade. Thanks. Keep on giving Opinions and Experiences.

lol 2 bar length's....20 and 28 is the best for that saw. 3 inchs isnt worth the effort!

I agree. 20" bar is all I use and you have to get into some big wood before you need bigger. I've used a 044 with a 20" bar and it was an animal. Although I've never used a 28" on one I imagine it would be quite capable. Again, you'll need to be in the big big stuff before you need to get the 28" out.

I guess it comes down to how often you are going to need bigger than 20"...and how much bigger. I would also consider selling the current saw and getting a 361/362 with a 18" and 25" as a possible option. But then again, I'm biased as you can see from my signature.

I've never had a need for bigger than 20". If I'm getting into 30+" DBH wood I'd just assume leave it lay. The rounds are too big for my taste (I don't have a splitter).
 
Well, I just got done looking at what bar my MC290 has, its a 18". I'm the type not to really separate with a piece of equipment, such as my 290, but rather have the availabiltiy there if the situation calls for it. So I take that my next best step would be a 441 Magnum. However, a quick question is changing a bar in the field a standard practice?
 
chvymn99 said:
Well, I just got done looking at what bar my MC290 has, its a 18". I'm the type not to really separate with a piece of equipment, such as my 290, but rather have the availabiltiy there if the situation calls for it. So I take that my next best step would be a 441 Magnum. However, a quick question is changing a bar in the field a standard practice?

Hell No unless you have to...lol I run a 28 most of the time but if I think I can fell and buck with a 20 then its a 20..........90 percent I run a 28-32. Changing can be a good thing though FRESH Chain.
 
It certainly is not hard to change a bar. However, when you get multiple saws you might just switch saws. If the saws are handy it is a neat way to cut. I have been cutting some large trees near to my house and I am using the 660 to fell them, and cut the big logs that are going to a saw mill. I use my Husky with a 16 inch bar to cut the branches, nice and light. I use my 390 for all the medium level work, it probably gets used the most being a 20 inch bar and 60 cc's. The 660 is a beast but seems overkill for branches.
 
GolfandWoodNut said:
It certainly is not hard to change a bar. However, when you get multiple saws you might just switch saws. If the saws are handy it is a neat way to cut. I have been cutting some large trees near to my house and I am using the 660 to fell them, and cut the big logs that are going to a saw mill. I use my Husky with a 16 inch bar to cut the branches, nice and light. I use my 390 for all the medium level work, it probably gets used the most being a 20 inch bar and 60 cc's. The 660 is a beast but seems overkill for branches.

Yea but if its got gas? lol roll with it...lol
 
Question if I found a Stihl 660 for a decent price would that be a option worth checking into?
 
chvymn99 said:
Question if I found a Stihl 660 for a decent price would that be a option worth checking into?

660 a big saw!
 
Thanks a lot guys, now you got me wanting to buy a 044/440;)

just saw one on eBay for $499 free shipping
 
lukem said:
20" bar is all I use and you have to get into some big wood before you need bigger.
I've never had a need for bigger than 20". If I'm getting into 30+" DBH wood I'd just assume leave it lay. The rounds are too big for my taste.
Word. You can triple-cut a pretty big tree with a 20". Even if you have a splitter, just moving those huge rounds to it and trying to split them isn't worth the effort IMO. You can hurt yourself trying to wrangle that huge stuff.
I like to use the smallest saw I can. It takes a lot of effort to handle a big saw for hours on end.
 
I agree with several others who feel a 20" bar is the biggest bar you will ever need for cutting firewood. A 20" bar will cut a 40" diameter log. Rounds of that diameter are almost impossible to move around and position in a log splitter. I do 95% of my firewood cutting with a 16" bar. For me, anything larger than that becomes very tiresome to hold after a while.
 
Before you get a larger saw i would try a full chisel chain.
My farm boss just flies thru large trees with a good chain .
We cut a oak 2 years ago that was 38x 80" double stump-er .
The 20" bar is" is perfect for all purpose cutting .
 
TimfromPittsburgh said:
I agree with several others who feel a 20" bar is the biggest bar you will ever need for cutting firewood. A 20" bar will cut a 40" diameter log. Rounds of that diameter are almost impossible to move around and position in a log splitter. I do 95% of my firewood cutting with a 16" bar. For me, anything larger than that becomes very tiresome to hold after a while.

Just to pick a few nits here: I just measured the reach on my Rancher with 20" bar & I get 18.5" from the bucking spikes to the top of a cutter on the nose. So that 20" bar is good for about a 37" log if the log is pretty uniformly round. Big lumps on the log & you can loose another couple inches. So in reality a 20" bar would let you cut any average 36" log or get every round down to the stump of say a 32-34"ish DBH tree before you have to start getting fancy with ripping cuts.
I agree that's still plenty for most firewood guys, but urban scroungers can easily run out of bar on the big yard trees. My very first scrounging score ever had several rounds that my 20" bar couldn't reach without some slicing/dicing.
 
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