Inexpensive Monitoring Thermometer ideas?

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Thom Griffin

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Mar 25, 2012
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When I installed my Tarm, I opted for the cheaper Termovar, without temp readings. What are you guys, who are similarly thrifty, doing for temp monitoring, if you bother.

Isn't this just lovely weather? I was okay night before last, but last night, I got just a little behind; had to burn an extra half load of wood.
 
I'm not happy with Azel. I was told I could easily extend it several hundred feet. I've been back and forth with them many times and spent over $100 in various wires trying to get it to read at about 75 ft, unsuccessfully.
I don't mean to highjack, but since you're talking azel , maybe you can explain how you got yours to work, what other stuff may be necessary, besides just the two reading unit.
 
This my second experience with Azel. First was with a greenwood about 100 feet away and it worked fine. I just used thermostat wire. This time I have two units. One unit does the tops of both of the tanks about 30 feet away with the display in my T V room. 2nd one is at the boiler measuring supply and return from tanks.Agin just thermostat wire. I did have to replace the battery yesterday.
 
Solid t stat wire? What gauge?
 
I think the least expensive option is to purchase "milk frothing thermometer" on Amazon or eBay, in the range of $5-7 each. Ziptie to the point on the pipe that you want to read, wrap with insulation. This is what I used before ending up with DS18B20 sensors and digital panel meters, along with data logging. I don't do much data logging anymore unless I'm testing the results of a modification in my system. But the digital panel meters give me a constant readout on Tank top, bottom and middle; boiler supply to system; return to boiler after the Termovar; supply to radiant in-floor and return from radiant; and flue temperature (K-type sensor).
 
Thanks jebatty. I'm curious to see some actual numbers for all my fiddling with the balancing valve. I expect it will tell me what I already suspect, that is that barely open is the best bet. I'm curious to see how much it changes when I put it in the "wrong" position.
 
That is what I did. Generally boiler return water should be 140F minimum; I shoot for about 150F minimum; no more than 160F unless system return water is this high or higher. By opening or closing the balancing valve you can find the position that provides the return temperature you want once when the boiler gets up to operating temperature.
 
Someone bought a bunch of digital thermometers, made a nice looking panel and had a link to them. I think it was e-bay and they were $6 from the source. I think the thread was about a month or two ago.
 
Three panels I have made and installed: 1st is for my own Tarm Solo Plus 40 system, 2nd is for a system with a Wood Gun E500 and a Garn WHS 3200, and 3rd is for a Froling FHG-L50 system. Although not big dollar expensive, more complicated and expensive than milk frothing thermometers.
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When I installed my Tarm, I opted for the cheaper Termovar, without temp readings. What are you guys, who are similarly thrifty, doing for temp monitoring, if you bother.

Isn't this just lovely weather? I was okay night before last, but last night, I got just a little behind; had to burn an extra half load of wood.
Wallyworld has digital oven thermometers with a wired remote stainless steel sensor for less than $20.
 
If a decision to go digital, LED panel meters are available in various colors and are bright. LCD are OK too but hard to see if not well lighted.
 
Three panels I have made and installed: 1st is for my own Tarm Solo Plus 40 system, 2nd is for a system with a Wood Gun E500 and a Garn WHS 3200, and 3rd is for a Froling FHG-L50 system. Although not big dollar expensive, more complicated and expensive than milk frothing thermometers.
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Those are slick. I see you used DS18B20 sensors, but does the interpretation/logging/display?
 
Displays only real-time temp. Logging is to my computer for later analysis. The computer during logging does display a graph covering the logging period so I can view what is happening over time.
 
Controlbyweb x300 ran me $300 with seven sensors and i still have a bit of work to do to get it where i want it but its a pretty powerfull all in one unit. Right now it is displaying on a dedicated laptop about 200' away with cat5 but eventually i will be able to pull it up on any computer or smartphone. Also will have data logging and there is three relays that you can operate manually, timed, or with temp sensors. Oil on when supply temp drops. Wood off if supply gets too hot. And the third likely for the block heater on my truck.
 

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Displays only real-time temp. Logging is to my computer for later analysis. The computer during logging does display a graph covering the logging period so I can view what is happening over time.
So in different panel setups above, are the sensors always run through a computer first? Or is there a more direct way to connect them to the LED display meters?
 
Sensors go direct to the meters. The meters and the logging are independent of each other in my setup. I tried to find a simple and inexpensive dual system but was unable at the time. Maybe it exists today.
 
I'm not happy with Azel. I was told I could easily extend it several hundred feet. I've been back and forth with them many times and spent over $100 in various wires trying to get it to read at about 75 ft, unsuccessfully.
I don't mean to highjack, but since you're talking azel , maybe you can explain how you got yours to work, what other stuff may be necessary, besides just the two reading unit.

I would have to agree with you. I bought a DS-60P that was recommended by the guy that designed my system. When I installed it in the house (100' from boiler) the boiler temps were reading 270° plus. I wrote Azel for help and they didn't respond. After 5 or 6 times they finally responded to inform me that the sensor is a thermistor. Thermistors change their resistance according to temperature but the thermostat wire I used was adding resistance, resulting in the increased temperature read out. After several other emails to the same guy asking for more help, I gave up because he never responded. $60 down the crapper.

Bob
 
Three panels I have made and installed: 1st is for my own Tarm Solo Plus 40 system, 2nd is for a system with a Wood Gun E500 and a Garn WHS 3200, and 3rd is for a Froling FHG-L50 system. Although not big dollar expensive, more complicated and expensive than milk frothing thermometers.
View attachment 125170

Can you give us a product name/location/supplier to find these meters? What did you use for sensors? What wires did you run from the sensors to the meters?

Bob
 
When I installed it in the house (100' from boiler) the boiler temps were reading 270° plus. I wrote Azel for help and they didn't respond. After 5 or 6 times they finally responded to inform me that the sensor is a thermistor. Thermistors change their resistance according to temperature but the thermostat wire I used was adding resistance, resulting in the increased temperature read out.
Doesn't sound right. It's hard to believe Azel would be pumping enough current to see a significant voltage drop through 100' out and back, but it's possible they botched the design. It might be worthwhile to do some experiments in the kitchen with various wire lengths and various wire gauges to see if you can get an accurate reading for boiling water.
 
I had a thermistor temp sensor that included a table of the resistance at various temperatures. You can use a VOM to check the resistance of the thermistor with and without the extra cabling and get the facts to see what resistance the cabling is adding and what the temp reading is with the extra resistance. Or, based on what thermistor Azel uses, look up the resistance table on the web.
 
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