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Insert I have never heard of

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by Jonny006, Aug 2, 2013.

  1. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
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    29,064
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    I just have to inject this. My old insert was the same age as yours. Heated this joint for 21 years. The last year of its life I lined the chimney and put a boot on it to connect the liner. Not knowing that a crack had developed in the back. Combined with the fact that the stove was never envisioned to have the kind of draft that liner provided, and the crack letting air in, the sucker ran away the first time it was fired after the liner install and got up to 1,400 degrees stove top and scared the hell out of me. Plugged the crack with furnace cement and the next night the same thing happened again.

    Be careful giving those old inserts too much chimney draft that they never dreamed of when they designed them to have since they thought they would be dumping into flue tiles. My liner is 21' tall.

    Just sayin...

    .
    pen, webbie, Joful and 2 others like this.

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  2. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    Sep 24, 2008
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    NNJ
    I have a 28000 also. Its satisfactory with extreamly season high quality wood. Unfortunately I would guess that your motor is probably fried, if the insert was over fired. At least make a relationship with the guys at http://www.servicesales.com/buck-stove-parts-c-22.html
    I would also oil the motor before re-installing and have the crack welded. The long term problem with this insert is the 8" flue requirement. As you probably know, 6" is the standard now.
    I probably use 30-40% more wood than I would with a newer insert. Life is a compromise!
  3. Jonny006

    Jonny006 New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2013
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    89
    Loc:
    Ct
    The motor hums and blows air quite nicely. The crack has been fixed by a competant welder and he is under the impression that while it did get hot, the crack is more of a design flaw than due to overfiring. The crack is just below the door hinge where there is a bolt which holds the door frame assembly. It was most likely under alot of tension and the added heat caused the split. That was his assessment, and he knows more about metal than I ever will.
    The guys at Servicesales also told me that they can supply a new catalyst and damper handle for the retrofit that I have so this can still be a cat stove. I have the 8" liner and just have to get the top stack and some gaskets and I should be good to go.
    I am not overly concerned about wood consumption as there is plenty around here. And as I have stated before, this stove is not going to be forever. It's kind of a band aid until I can afford a more modern, efficient, equivalent. Like a kick ass wood boiler!
  4. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    South Puget Sound, WA
    Keep a thermometer on the old stove so that you can monitor it and keep the top below 700F.
  5. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    The motor will sometimes work fine for a little while then squeel in the middle of the night. Problem with these old Bucks is the motor is only serviceable from the rear. Which means taking the entire 300+lb? insert out to oil and or change it.
  6. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

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  7. central_scrutinizer

    central_scrutinizer Member

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    Nov 12, 2008
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    Loc:
    Greenwood, South Carolina
    nutechook.JPG

    If it helps you any, I have several of the Nutec damper rods with hooks. I also have some cat screens (stainless wire mesh) and some cats.
  8. Jonny006

    Jonny006 New Member

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    Ct
    Yup! That's the part. That hook is gone on mine. I had the guy who welded the stove heat up the bolts in order to get the cat holder out. So now the holder is free and I need the aforementioned part as well as an actual cat and I'm afraid that the original "L" bolts that hold the cat assembly are shot. The threads are pretty worn off. Are these still available? Also gonna need new gaskets, a Bakelite knob, chimney thimble and some fire dogs. Then... I should be good.
    How do I go about getting that damper rod?

  9. Jonny006

    Jonny006 New Member

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    Ah, checked your profile Scrutinizer, I think we have spoken on the phone. You are my source! I will be calling soon.
  10. valley ranch

    valley ranch Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
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    Ranches in Sierra Nevada mts,Calif & Nevada
    Sounds grim! Well, I've always liked these stoves. I found one for a relative who has decided not to install it. Great. I told her if she decides not to install it I'll take it. I will do what is needed and install it as a free standing. I'm surprised to hear people so down on them, wonder what they have in their house. I've worked on diesel engines, whenever they run away, just like a stove, fix the problem and their back in business.

    In any case I'll use it while I rebuild the one we're using now. Building a secondary air system.

    Never lived where we didn't heat with wood. When I would see a buck in someone's house I'd look it over and let them know, If they ever wanted to sell it, let me know. When I've seen one that was a real wood eater, the glass in front was loose. Well, I'll let you know.

    No wax Richard

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