Insert or freestanding stove in a stone fireplace

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Ken45

Minister of Fire
Feb 21, 2008
545
southern Ohio
We have a large see through stone fireplace (31"h x 40"d x 44"w). We are debating whether to set a freestanding stove in the fireplace, or to use a insert (most likely a PE Summit either way).

We kind of like the freestanding stove idea since an insert would require some sort of hearth extension (the hearth is 16" and 12" above the floor). Also, a freestanding stove would provide some heat to both the front and back.

However, I also realize that some of the heat would be lost to the stone fireplace surrounding the stove on the sides and above.

Also, we would have a really tight fit getting the freestanding stove into the fireplace since the hearth is two inches higher than the firebox (29" clearance). I'm thinking of getting the stove with the legs and cutting a couple of inches off the legs to lower it a bit. Or alternately, leaving the legs off and sitting it on bricks on each corner.

Questions:

1) Are we going to loose a lot of heat to the fireplace since it will be surrounded by stone?

2) Does anyone see a problem with lowering the legs a few inches?

3) I already have sheet metal blocking the existing chimney below the old damper. I'll cut a hole in the sheet metal and run 6" ss flex tube up the chimney. How does one connect a stove to the flex tube since I won't be able to lift it up and set on on the stove? (Or is there enough "extra" in the collar to do this?

Alternately, if we go with an insert, it will be about 12" horizontal distance from the stove flue connector to the flex liner coming down the chimney. How do I handle that horizontal distance, with a couple of 90s or 45s?

Thanks,

Ken
 
A summit stove will be a tight fit as at 31" you only have about 1" of space left vertical. Cutting the legs I'm not sure if that is good or not as they have bolts in the bottom of them for leveling the stove when it is installed. I think as long as you keep the metal pan on the bottom of the stove at least 1" off the floor might be ok but I am in no way an expert on this. I am also not sure how much heat you will get from the back of the stove as it has very close clearances on the back If I remember right 6" to combustible wall.

1. At first yes but once it is hot it will act like a big heat sink and give the heat back.
2. Maybe, I would ask my dealer about it if I were seriously thinking about it
3. I have no idea as I have never had a fireplace or an insert, but somebody will be along to tel you about that shortly.
 
Dan,

Thanks for the reply. Good information about the adjusting bolts on the legs. Thanks. The dealer didn't mention that....

That's why I'm asking here, I'm not too trusting of the dealer's knowledge. Oh, BTW, the dealer does not do installations.....

I'm not worried about combustible clearances since this is a big fireplace open on both sides. I figure a little heat will go into the room behind it.

I'm somewhat concerned about heat loss going upward in the old fireplace. Maybe it would be wise to put some insulation board (cement board?) at the top of the old firebox with some fireproof insulation above it? Or am I just worrying about something minor.

We are in a rural area without much in the way of reliable dealers around here. There is one dealer about an hour away that seems somewhat knowledgeable but their stoves are too tall and their only insert is a very large cat.

Ken
 
I would install a back off plate and not worry about insulation all across the top of the firebox.
 
You mentioned that you'd need a hearth extension for an insert, but you'd need that for a regular stove, too, unless it will be a couple of inches inside your fireplace? I just want to be sure you've checked into this.

Attaching the liner to your stove/insert: I think there is no telescoping bit to go between your stove and the liner, so you'll need to carefully measure the stove collar and any adapter bits, and adjust the amount of liner hanging down. I don't know if the liner will fit a "flue collar adapter" on your stove (for my stove, this adapter went between double-wall pipe and my stove) or if you will need a different adapter from the liner to your stove. Maybe someone will chime in with the answer, but you can also call the company you will order your stuff from and get some good info from them--or from the liner manufacturer. I did both when I was trying to understand all the components and which ones I needed.

You can put the stove in the firebox, then lever it up to put it on bricks. It would be especially easy for you, since you have access front and back. I'd push the bricks in a little ways, so you can conceal them with skirting of stone or sheet metal. I helped install a stove onto bricks in a fireplace, and the shimming needed to level the stove was simple. Since bricks don't have the leveling bolts, and you're considering them, it's not necessarily a big deal to lose them on your cut-off legs. Or if you really want the leveling bolts, you could get a welder to do the cutoff, and then replace (weld on) a threaded bit of metal that accepts the bolts. You should check with the stove manufacturer, or an online manual, to see if there's a minimum distance from the stove bottom to the floor, and if that is for a combustible floor or even a non-combustible one.


I think since your fireplace is see-though, that it's completely, or mostly, interior? If so, then the heat absorbed by the fireplace will be given back to the living space. It's the heating of your yard that sucks! I've seen a damper blockoff plate sold with some sheet insulation that sits on top of it, but I think the recommended product is rock wool. A fan really helps to get the heat away from the stove and to the rest of your house, so an installed blower or a freestanding fan is going to result in less heat rising straight up to heat your block-off plate. Your see-through fireplace will be really handy for fan use, too.
 
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