Installation Questions

[Jbird560]

Trying to get a general idea of what parts to look for for my NCL 13 install. I gather that there is a practical limit for how much straight pipe you should use prior to converting to double wall. My stove will be in the outside corner of the living area of
a very open floor plan. Distance from floor level to cathedral ceiling will be about 12'.
Should I run straight pipe all the way to the square box in the ceiling or should I convert
to double wall 6 or 8 foot over the top of the stove? The roof is a 10/12 pitch metal roof
so what parts will I need and approximately how far should the top cap extend above the roof on the outside? Thanks.
Jbird

 

[certified106]

Trying to get a general idea of what parts to look for for my NCL 13 install. I gather that there is a practical limit for how much straight pipe you should use prior to converting to double wall. My stove will be in the outside corner of the living area of
a very open floor plan. Distance from floor level to cathedral ceiling will be about 12'.
Should I run straight pipe all the way to the square box in the ceiling or should I convert
to double wall 6 or 8 foot over the top of the stove? The roof is a 10/12 pitch metal roof
so what parts will I need and approximately how far should the top cap extend above the roof on the outside? Thanks.
Jbird

Whether you can run straight (single wall) pipe or not will be directly related to how far your pipe is located from combustibles. I have Double wall run all the way down to my stove. Your installation manual should have the clearances/lengths for different pipes listed in the installation section and the pipe manufacturer should have the clearances to combustibles for double wall and single wall pipe.

Sorry that doesn't directly answer your question but I'm sure someone else will be able to expound as to what the exact clearances for different pipes are.

 

[Jbird560]

I understand that you have to meet clearance standards and I won't have a problem with that. What I am concerned about is how much straight pipe is best to avoid cool flue temps (creosote) and how this will affect
draft, etc. I gather from reading here that too much straight pipe cools things down too much for efficient
burning?

Jbird

 

[Jimbob]

I gather that there is a practical limit for how much straight pipe you should use prior to converting to double wall. My stove will be in the outside corner of the living area of
a very open floor plan. Distance from floor level to cathedral ceiling will be about 12'.
Should I run straight pipe all the way to the square box in the ceiling or should I convert
to double wall 6 or 8 foot over the top of the stove?

I'd run straight single wall pipe all the way to the box in the ceiling. You could use double-wall pipe, it's more expensive, but it'll last way longer. In double-wall pipe, you can buy a telescoping length of pipe as well as the fixed-lengths you need. This means no cutting of the pipe will be necessary. Future removal of the pipe (if needed) would be easier too.
Assuming your stove is about 2-1/2 feet tall, and your ceiling box hangs down about a foot, you'd be using about 8-1/2 feet of stovepipe.

1- 4-foot telescoping length double wall.
1- 3 foot fixed length double wall.
1- 2 ft. fixed length double wall.

....Or whatever combination of lengths works for you. You only need 1 length of telescoping pipe.

Someone else will chime-in with advice on what to use for your ceiling support kit, and exterior chimney.

 

[begreen]

It's generally recommended to keep a single wall run to 8 ft to avoid cooling the flue gases too much. For a clean looking installation, I would do double-wall connector pipe to the cathedral ceiling support box. At that point you will be transitioning to the classA insulated pipe. In a milder climate, keeping the flue gases warmer will also help with draft on those above 45ºF days.

 

[double-d]

jbird
You will ned to run Class A pipe through the ceiling. There are kits available, the kit should include a smoke pipe adapter which is what you will use as a transition piece from your stove pipe to the class a pipe, also pitched flashing, under flashing roof support which holds the weight, adjustable pitched ceiling plate, finishing collar, storm collar and some sort of rain cap. The kits do not include any pipe. You'll need to go at least 2 feet above the roof, and the roof is 10' away, or something like that. I agree, going from the stove to the transition piece I would use a teloscopic stove pipe, it will take the guessing out of what length you need.