installed oak on the bk princess

[ecocavalier02]

Well i got the oak installed. now to wait from some weather to burn see how it works. i was able to snake it in behind the wall. nice having a drop ceiling to snake things in behind the wall. i just made a metal cap at my shop just a little smaller than the inside diameter of the opening then cut a 3 inch hole tap in off of that and furnace cemented it up and and then ran the hose off of that.

 

[pen]

time will tell.

pen

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well just lit the first fire of the year. Seems to be workin just fine. House was down ti 64 so I thought I'd try it out. Plus the baby Needs to be warm.

 

[Todd]

How long of a run and where does it exit?

 

[ecocavalier02]

maybe a 10 foot run. goes right up that wall and out.

 

[North of 60]

An upside down P-trap would be a good addition to that.

 

[ecocavalier02]

An upside down P-trap would be a good addition to that.

i saw that on an older post how u did that. what is the purpose behind that?

 

[North of 60]

It traps the warm air and stops the cold air dropping in when the stove is not in use. When the stove is in use it has to pull the warmer air down through the trap. I dont know what the colds extremes are in CT though.

 

[Todd]

The problem with those OAK's running up the wall is cold air pushes down hard into the stove. You want the stove to pull the air into the stove. I had some problems with my OAK for my basement install, it shortened my burns and seem to cool the stove off quicker. I ended up reducing the intake from 4" to 3" and installed 90 elbow outside where it exits the sill plate and also put a big U or p-trap in the run to slow the cold air down, seems to work better now.

 

[ecocavalier02]

I will consider this if I have a problem whe. It's get cooler. What bout a little damper in the pipe itself. I also am running 3 inch.

 

[Todd]

I tried the damper but it was a pain. The colder the air gets the stronger it would push into the stove. I think the 90 outside helped me the most, kept the cold air from a straight shot down, now it has to rise up the 90 and cold air doesn't like that unless the stove askes for it.

 

[maxed_out]

We have a pull type ( the stove sits about 12" above the plane of where the air enters the envelop of the house) oak on our IR and no probs what so ever. Really helped with cold air intrusion into the house for combustion.

 

[ecocavalier02]

I tried the damper but it was a pain. The colder the air gets the stronger it would push into the stove. I think the 90 outside helped me the most, kept the cold air from a straight shot down, now it has to rise up the 90 and cold air doesn't like that unless the stove askes for it.

im curious to see how much it will effect the blaze king since im able to turn the t stat down so low that maybe i can just turn it down enough that it wont effect it as much. but time will tell. in the low 30's tonight. on a load that i loaded at 3 and now 7 hours later still half of the load is left. and i didnt stuff it all that full. so not seing much difference yet as far as it burning down faster..

 

[ecocavalier02]

It traps the warm air and stops the cold air dropping in when the stove is not in use. When the stove is in use it has to pull the warmer air down through the trap. I dont know what the colds extremes are in CT though.

last year was one of our coldest on record. got to 0 a few times. but normals are around some single digit nights. nothing to extreme like what you get. but will see. it would be easy enough to just get a couple elbows and make the trap if i have to in about 5 minutes.

 

[ecocavalier02]

well im on my first 24 hour load of the season. temps aren't to cool yet but doesn't seem to be effecting the burn time. but am considering throw this on just cuz it will only take a min.