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Installing Vent Pipe in a Harman Accentra Insert

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by erikbrooks, Oct 8, 2008.

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  1. erikbrooks

    erikbrooks New Member

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    So after lugging 500lbs of iron into my family room [with the help of 4 friends], I am self installing my Harman Accentra insert. The Harman manual is decent, but I find it jumps around quite a bit, skipping some important steps and even referring to non-existent diagrams.

    I have a 20' flue that I am inserting it in, all is well so far: I've got the 4" stainless steel vent pipe up the flue, the top plate and top cap are in place. My real question is about the installation of the vent pipe to the stove itself. The vent kit I purchased came with a male-female adapter, which I am using to make the connection.

    I am using the wider end of the adapter to attach to the vent pipe as it comes down the flue, then the smaller end goes inside of the stove outlet from the Harman, but it's fit on the stove outlet is anything but "snug" and airtight. Both ends are secured using the adapters built-in hose clamps.

    Is this correct? I was told by someone that it should always be like that, so creosote etc. will drip inside the stove instead of all over the outside of it. But I am concerned about the fit not being anything close to airtight.

    I read somewhere that I could use either a high-temperature silicone caulk or chimney cement to seal it better.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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  2. GVA

    GVA Minister of Fire

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    not sure.... but I would say it goes the other way around, its a positive vented appliance....
    pellet stoves should not create creosote. you must have had a wood guy tell you that one........... Which is true by the way
  3. lecomte38

    lecomte38 Feeling the Heat

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    I installed my insert a month ago. I had the same problem but, by cutting the end off the the flex pipe to appliance adapter ( came with my liner kit), I came up with a super tight fit instead of the loose one you are referring to. I still used silicone.
  4. erikbrooks

    erikbrooks New Member

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    So you trimmed the end of the adapter with the smaller diameter? Did you use the "high temp" caulk?
  5. erikbrooks

    erikbrooks New Member

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    Well, the larger end of the adapter was the exact same diameter as the stove's pipe, so i can't get one around the other in either orientation.
  6. djarseneault

    djarseneault Member

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    Don't use the adaptor. The liner pipe should fit right inside the stoves collar. Secure with a couple tek screws and put a bead of 500deg silicone around the joint and your done.
    Also, you should have removed the cast parts off the stove body before you moved it (top plate, side plates and door). Makes moving it much easier
  7. cac4

    cac4 New Member

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    can you do that w/ an accentra free-standing? that sucker sure is heavy...

    mine is still parked in my basement, waiting for me to get around to installing it. moving it upstairs is going to be fun...
  8. djarseneault

    djarseneault Member

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    Unfortunately, no. Tha F/S Accentra is actually a true cast iron stove. Actually they do come apart, I have had to replace a bottom that was damaged in shipping. It all unbolts, but it is a pain.
  9. erikbrooks

    erikbrooks New Member

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    After doing my research I ended up following your advice above: I trimmed the adapter with some snips, cranked it down with the attached hose clamp. My local HW store did not have the hi-temp silicon caulk, but they did have Rutland furnace cement [$5 for a small tub]. It was easy to work with, is meant for metal to metal sealing, and is good to 2000º F. Thanks for your advice.
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