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Interior chimney chase insulation?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Dee, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. Dee

    Dee New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Messages:
    3
    I just purchased and installed a Quad 7100 in Montana for my (under construction) new house. I have stick framed the chase on the inside of my house (3 sides of the chase are inside the house, 1 side along an insulated and sheetrocked exterior wall). My question... should I insulate the remaining 3 interior chase walls? Will the chase be a major source of heat loss (or cold air radiating) in my house while I'm not burning? The total length of chimney is 34 ft., straight shot, 27 ft. of which is in a vaulted ceiling. Does the remaining 7 ft. above the roof need to be insulated as well, or is it to short to make a difference. Thanks for your time!

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  2. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    Loc:
    Averill Park, NY, on Burden Lake II...
    You want enclose that unit within an insulated "box." Insulate ALL the walls of the chase AT LEAST 8 feet up. One or two feet above the unit there should be a shelf - either sheet sock or plywood - that is fully insulated - paper side down - with the exception of the top of the firestop that holds the chimney section that passes thru it. That will also maintain the required 2" pipe clearance to the insulation. Either use aluminum tape or 3/4" tape gasket to seal the gap between the firestop & the pipe. If you are running the 4" corrugated flexible aluminum tubing for the CAK thru the deck, that can be sealed the same way. Non need for any clearance around that tubing.
  3. daryl

    daryl Feeling the Heat

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    Loc:
    Western WI

    I install a lot of these units so I will give you a quick rundown. Only insulate outside (cold) walls, and ceiling areas. The reason being is that the unit takes in outside air that is cold, insulating the interior walls turns the chase area into a cold box when not in use. In cold climates I don't suggest using outside convection air. It reduces heat output a lot and makes for a cold fireplace when not in use. Sorry Daksy but this has been my experience from 20 plus years of installing in cold climates.
  4. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    Loc:
    Averill Park, NY, on Burden Lake II...
    No problem. Upstate NY is a rather cold climate at times & that's the way we do it. We ALWAYS install the CAK & the OAK. Our inspectors mandate it. Matter of fact, with the exception of the AKs, that's the SAME method we use for vertically vented gas installs. Maybe your inspectors are a little more lenient, but in NY, if it's in the manual, they make us adhere to it.
  5. daryl

    daryl Feeling the Heat

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    Loc:
    Western WI

    We also always install the CAK & OAK, but the convection outside air is a option that you do not have to use on a 7100. We also insulate our outside air ducts , keeps them from condensing and dripping water.
  6. Dee

    Dee New Member

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    thanks, guys. Both arguments seem to make sense to me... I have already installed the OAK, it has an 'open' and 'close' nob, does this not help with the cold air infiltration? I don't want the cold air from the OAK and CAK to have a direct shot at putting cold air in my new house. Can I just stuff insulation into the outside vent holes when not in use? Is it advisable to not use the OAK in a newer 'tight' house which could lead to negative air pressure? This stove will be used in conjunction with a forced air system. Great... looks like I have a 50/50 split here... what to do. Any other opinions?
  7. daryl

    daryl Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Loc:
    Western WI
    The 7100 has 3 areas for outside air, CAK for the chimney(you have to use that). Outside air for the firebox ( you have to use that). Outside air for the convection fan (room air blower) you do not need that. I hope that explains what the different air kits are for.

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