Intrepid II Catalytic question

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evilgriff

Burning Hunk
Oct 14, 2007
139
Northern New Jersey
I posted earlier some things with my Intrepid stove. I purchased a new cat, and cleaned the refractory chamber and so that should be ready. My question is the metal plate that covers the refractory chamber seems to have gasket material on it that is well worn, or there is no gasket on it. How important is this area to seal good? Does gasket material belong there and if so what size and is is round or flat? It seems that it could not be too thick or possibly flat as I would not be able to clamp down on the two side clamps.
 
Evil, I have my cover removed about 4 times in a burning season to clean my cat. and I have never
installed any kind of gasket.. I do however apply alittle "Rutland" cement around the lower corners after the
hood is installed to help with any sealing, but I don't really think it is needed, I'ts just what I do...
 
I did not see any gasket listed in the manual. I will do as you did and not put any gasket there. I know what you mean about the bottom as I have seen the cement around the bottom corners. Thanks alot!!
 
No prob. enjoy your stove, they work great. It took alittle time for me to learn mine, and now I love it.
 
That plate should have a 3/16" fiberglass gasket on the upper half, around the inset sooty area. Flat would probably work better, but round may flatten out enough anyway. Try McMaster Carr online and buy by the foot.

This seals ensures that air only enters the secondary combustion chamber through the thermostatically controlled secondary air flap lower down. The gasket also prevents smoke from exiting the chamber around that plate and into your house, and conversely, also keeps the chimney from sucking extra air (which will reduce the chimney's draw).

The stove will probably operate better if that plate is properly sealed.
 
Elmo, I took that plate off last year to clean it and I thought I saw some gasket material in there, but it was all worn away. I replaced it with some gasket that I had, which was thicker than 3/16. It was difficult but I was able to put the clamps back on the backing plate. After that the stove did not seem to operate right- flames coming up over the top of the throat hood where it was slightly warped, and smoke backing up- when I took it apart this summer, I ripped off all of the gasket to see if the plate would fit better-it was tighter and also the gap on the throat hood was MUCH smaller, still an opening, but much less. I have purchased a new cat (stove is now 8 years old), have the stove vacuumed out, and am ready to put it back together. I wish I understood the flow of air in the stove as you do- it would then make more sense to me, up until I looked at taking the stove apart this year ( I would like to avoid a total teardown) I did not even know there was another air flap on the bottom in the back (I have a heat shield there). After I gasketed this plate I had the exact problems you describe- yet I cannot picture in my head how smoke coming out of that plate gets into the house or how I have reduced chimney draw ( had that problem too after gasketing). Also, what is an inset sooty area? Should there be gasket along the sides of the plate also? It is amazing to me that burning wood gets this complicated!! This has been a great stove and I have 3 cords of the oak/hickory/maple that have been seasoned for a year-I am looking forward to a nice warm winter in my house if I can fix this stove.
 
Find one of the exploded parts diagrams online and/or the owners manual and print it out for reference. It'll be invaluable in understanding how the stove works and proper maintenance.
 
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