Invisible stove pipe

[brianbeech]

I'd really like to have my stove sitting by a wall without seeing any stovepipe. The rated clearance for the rear of the stove I am looking at is 3". Seeing 3" or even 6" of pipe from the side isn't a bad thing, but I don't want to have a stove pipe going all the way up the 8' wall to connect to the chimney. My question is: is there a way to run the chimney down the inside of the wall and having the connection just behind the stove. The stove has a rear flue and I was thinking that I could metal stud the two studs beside the chimney running down the wall and even make the wall a bit thicker if needed (it's a small wall that just has the fridge on the other side).

I see that the clearance on Class A triple wall chimney is 2", so it seems doable, but just wanted to see what you all thought. I know, stove pipe/chimney is all part of owning a woodstove, but I really like the look of a stove sitting there and not seeing the pipe. I guess I'm the guy they're creating these marketing ads for - I swallowed the hook.

Thanks for any help.

 

[cmonSTART]

A lot of rear exhaust stoves are hooked up that way, particularly a lot of the old VC stoves. If you're installing the chimney, class A chimney should be used for the chimney and horizontal portion. It will be a tee supported installation with a wall pass through, then regular stove connector pipe goes from the chimney tee outside the wall to the stove. Just plan your tee height accordingly.

 

[Fsappo]

As Moose said, as long as you use class A pipe down along the wall with the proper clearances to a TEE and a class A thimble extending out a few inches into the future structure, you can box in that pipe and not have to see any. Now, there has been instances in the past where stoves were hooked almost directly into a class A chimney system. With little or no single or double wall stove pipe to allow heat to dispurse, the class A chimney would fail. Just something to look into and let someone smarter than me give you a better answer on.

 

[double-d]

Your wall probably isn't thick enough to run Class A pipe up through it. Your talking a lot of ripping and tearing and rebuilding. The Class A pipe for a 6" ID is 8" plus 2" clearance from combustibles. Plus no telling what you'll run into, projects seldom go as planed. I think cmonStart had the right idea, if you can vent it straight back into the chimney or outside, you might have a shot of canceling it. I'm not a duck hunter, but I know they paint their boats a camouflage color, maybe you could try that with your pipe if all else fails. Let's see what others can come up with for you.

 

[brianbeech]

Your wall probably isn't thick enough to run Class A pipe up through it. Your talking a lot of ripping and tearing and rebuilding. The Class A pipe for a 6" ID is 8" plus 2" clearance from combustibles. Plus no telling what you'll run into, projects seldom go as planed. I think cmonStart had the right idea, if you can vent it straight back into the chimney or outside, you might have a shot of canceling it. I'm not a duck hunter, but I know they paint their boats a camouflage color, maybe you could try that with your pipe if all else fails. Let's see what others can come up with for you.

I did look at that and think about my clearances. I'm removing a wall and will be rebuilding part of it; this will allow me to make it as thick as need be. The diagram below shows what I've got to work with. Red is wall being removed, Green is wall to be rebuilt (with chimney), black are walls that will stay.

 

[Lumber-Jack]

Basicly you'd have to have a double wall and build a chase for the chimney to go up through, then your chimney would be hidden

Like this.