Recent PM I received. Might be useful to others considering a Scandia.
I found this Scandia on Craigs List and we are trying to set up an appointment to take a look at it today: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/hsh/903536960.html
This stove is probably 25 years old. Looks okay in photo, but it’s inside that counts. Interesting at $0 to $100, but ridiculously overpriced at $375. Go see it, prepare a low-ball offer, but be happy to walk away. You cannot get parts for this stove anymore (though VC parts may work in some cases – your seller does not need to know that). You can do much better if you can afford to be patient.
You seem like you know and love your Scandia, so, might I ask a few questions?
Well, I know my Scandia, and it was practically free, so what’s not to love? But let’s be clear – Scandia’s are not great stoves, they are relatively poor quality copies of great stoves, and there is an important difference there. You will need to be hands-on to get top performance out of a Scandia, and not all models are worth the effort. Your find is a copy of a great stove, but the price is way too high. You can have an original Vigilant for that price – a far superior product in almost every respect.
Do we have to worry about this stove being either EPA certified or non-EPA certified?
Yes. Your state building codes and/or clean air legislation may not permit the installation of a non-EPA stove. If you install in violation of code, your insurance may not cover, your neighbors may bring action, etc. But there are three other excellent reasons to choose an EPA stove. They extract more heat from less fuel, saving money and effort (25% to 33%). They burn much cleaner over a broader range of conditions, which means less chimney maintenance and creosote risk. They are newer, which means more useful life left, better product support, etc.
You can purchase a good quality brand new EPA approved Englander NC-30 for about $1,000 at Home Depot or Lowe’s. With a 3 cubic foot firebox, and a great reputation on Hearth, this is something to seriously consider compared to a used stove. Used stoves are a lot of work, believe me, I have two of them. They are worth it ONLY if you get a FABULOUS DEAL, and then can properly evaluate and work on them yourself.
If you are permitted to install a pre-EPA stove, you should know that it is possible to operate them responsibly or irresponsibly. I manage clean performance and high output out of my old Scandia, but I burn hot to achieve that. Still, it can be done. When my Scandia fails or breaks, if I cannot fix it, it will go to the dump and I will purchase a new or lightly used EPA stove and never look back.
This seems to have a top feed ; which VC model would this Scandia compare to?
Looks like a copy of the Vigilant, an excellent and powerful VC model, much loved. Good choice for a hearth mount. If this Scandia copy had no major problems and could be had for $0 to $100, and if you have what it takes to evaluate it, then make it right and keep it tight, this could be a good value. But the listed price is ridiculous. An original Vigilant can be had for this price, and is a far superior product in appearance, materials, build-quality, durability, resale value—every respect except possibly performance. Vigilant parts are still available.
We have an interior masonary chimney & fireplace - would be doing a hearth mouth. I “think” our chimeny is something like 9 x 12 in our 1950’s vintage ranch home. The CL ad says this stove is 8” chimnney. I thought most of the newer ones were 6”? Can we transition from 8” at the stove to 6” going up and still get a good draft?
Don’t know. Many unknown variables here. I burn my big Scandia into 6” and it works fine doors shut, but occasionally will smoke a little when burning with front doors open as a fireplace.
Do you have any idea what it would cost us to do a self install chimney? (I know, that is probably asking as lot...)
$450 for 22’ x 6” stainless liner with top kit and liner-to-stove termination. $25 for sheet metal to make damper block-off plate. Add something for insulation above block off plate and below top kit. 8 to 16 hours depending on your skills and difficulty of your particular situation. Chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before installing liner.
Any other tips we should look at when we view the actual stove? Cracking / splitting / warping issues?
Deal breakers: Warped, cracked, welded or missing castings. Doors that won’t close properly due to warping or poor casting. Missing parts or sketchy repairs of any kind, esp doors, door handles, air controls. Scaling flakey rust esp in stove bottom. Surface rust that can be removed not a problem. Dirty stove full of ashes – hides a lot of mischief, complicates inspection, disrespectful to buyer.
Negotiating points: Surface rust or other cosmetic issues. Leaky seams (use STRONG flashlight). Maladjusted latches. Brittle or missing gaskets. Non-standard handles or parts. Missing heat shields and stand-offs. Rear shield is important for proper stove operation in my opinion (it’s there in the photo – nice!). Bottom heat shield if present is a nice bonus. Fabricating heat shields is possible. $50 each.
Any help greatly appreciated!
Your questions lead me to believe that you are just beginning to think seriously about wood burning. That’s great! Welcome to the club. You have found a great forum. But to be safe and make good decisions, you need more help than I can provide. Use the search function on Hearth to study up on hearth mounts, chimney liners, block off plates, clearance to combustibles, and heat shields. People on hearth will go a mile for you if they see that you are sincere and doing background work before asking.
Good luck!
I found this Scandia on Craigs List and we are trying to set up an appointment to take a look at it today: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/hsh/903536960.html
This stove is probably 25 years old. Looks okay in photo, but it’s inside that counts. Interesting at $0 to $100, but ridiculously overpriced at $375. Go see it, prepare a low-ball offer, but be happy to walk away. You cannot get parts for this stove anymore (though VC parts may work in some cases – your seller does not need to know that). You can do much better if you can afford to be patient.
You seem like you know and love your Scandia, so, might I ask a few questions?
Well, I know my Scandia, and it was practically free, so what’s not to love? But let’s be clear – Scandia’s are not great stoves, they are relatively poor quality copies of great stoves, and there is an important difference there. You will need to be hands-on to get top performance out of a Scandia, and not all models are worth the effort. Your find is a copy of a great stove, but the price is way too high. You can have an original Vigilant for that price – a far superior product in almost every respect.
Do we have to worry about this stove being either EPA certified or non-EPA certified?
Yes. Your state building codes and/or clean air legislation may not permit the installation of a non-EPA stove. If you install in violation of code, your insurance may not cover, your neighbors may bring action, etc. But there are three other excellent reasons to choose an EPA stove. They extract more heat from less fuel, saving money and effort (25% to 33%). They burn much cleaner over a broader range of conditions, which means less chimney maintenance and creosote risk. They are newer, which means more useful life left, better product support, etc.
You can purchase a good quality brand new EPA approved Englander NC-30 for about $1,000 at Home Depot or Lowe’s. With a 3 cubic foot firebox, and a great reputation on Hearth, this is something to seriously consider compared to a used stove. Used stoves are a lot of work, believe me, I have two of them. They are worth it ONLY if you get a FABULOUS DEAL, and then can properly evaluate and work on them yourself.
If you are permitted to install a pre-EPA stove, you should know that it is possible to operate them responsibly or irresponsibly. I manage clean performance and high output out of my old Scandia, but I burn hot to achieve that. Still, it can be done. When my Scandia fails or breaks, if I cannot fix it, it will go to the dump and I will purchase a new or lightly used EPA stove and never look back.
This seems to have a top feed ; which VC model would this Scandia compare to?
Looks like a copy of the Vigilant, an excellent and powerful VC model, much loved. Good choice for a hearth mount. If this Scandia copy had no major problems and could be had for $0 to $100, and if you have what it takes to evaluate it, then make it right and keep it tight, this could be a good value. But the listed price is ridiculous. An original Vigilant can be had for this price, and is a far superior product in appearance, materials, build-quality, durability, resale value—every respect except possibly performance. Vigilant parts are still available.
We have an interior masonary chimney & fireplace - would be doing a hearth mouth. I “think” our chimeny is something like 9 x 12 in our 1950’s vintage ranch home. The CL ad says this stove is 8” chimnney. I thought most of the newer ones were 6”? Can we transition from 8” at the stove to 6” going up and still get a good draft?
Don’t know. Many unknown variables here. I burn my big Scandia into 6” and it works fine doors shut, but occasionally will smoke a little when burning with front doors open as a fireplace.
Do you have any idea what it would cost us to do a self install chimney? (I know, that is probably asking as lot...)
$450 for 22’ x 6” stainless liner with top kit and liner-to-stove termination. $25 for sheet metal to make damper block-off plate. Add something for insulation above block off plate and below top kit. 8 to 16 hours depending on your skills and difficulty of your particular situation. Chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before installing liner.
Any other tips we should look at when we view the actual stove? Cracking / splitting / warping issues?
Deal breakers: Warped, cracked, welded or missing castings. Doors that won’t close properly due to warping or poor casting. Missing parts or sketchy repairs of any kind, esp doors, door handles, air controls. Scaling flakey rust esp in stove bottom. Surface rust that can be removed not a problem. Dirty stove full of ashes – hides a lot of mischief, complicates inspection, disrespectful to buyer.
Negotiating points: Surface rust or other cosmetic issues. Leaky seams (use STRONG flashlight). Maladjusted latches. Brittle or missing gaskets. Non-standard handles or parts. Missing heat shields and stand-offs. Rear shield is important for proper stove operation in my opinion (it’s there in the photo – nice!). Bottom heat shield if present is a nice bonus. Fabricating heat shields is possible. $50 each.
Any help greatly appreciated!
Your questions lead me to believe that you are just beginning to think seriously about wood burning. That’s great! Welcome to the club. You have found a great forum. But to be safe and make good decisions, you need more help than I can provide. Use the search function on Hearth to study up on hearth mounts, chimney liners, block off plates, clearance to combustibles, and heat shields. People on hearth will go a mile for you if they see that you are sincere and doing background work before asking.
Good luck!
(I am under construction). Aaanyway, I kinda like