Is it Toast?

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ggans

New Member
Oct 11, 2009
173
Michigan
It's a bit out of focus but you can see the wear. I just noticed this , when is it considered replacement time..
 

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hmm.... looks like mine. I'm waiting on the answer to.
 
I'd buy a spare and have it handy. I recently purchased a clutch that has removable sprockets and they are way cheaper that doing the whole thing. It also allows you to run other chains if you have the associated bar.
 
It's hard to tell from the picture, but if it's just about worn through the teeth, and I'm putting a new chain on, then I'd replace it. But I would replace it with the Oregon type (I think that's what the Stihl dealer calls it). From then on you can just replace the sprocket and not the whole clutch bell. I replace the Oregon type sprocket after every two chains.
 
Its good untill it doesn't drive any more
I run rim sprockets its the same for them only easier to replace
 
quads said:
It's hard to tell from the picture, but if it's just about worn through the teeth, and I'm putting a new chain on, then I'd replace it. But I would replace it with the Oregon type (I think that's what the Stihl dealer calls it). From then on you can just replace the sprocket and not the whole clutch bell. I replace the Oregon type sprocket after every two chains.

Same thing I found with my saw. Oregon dealer here had the parts. Newer style. Clutch bell, with separate rim sprocket,
Now I just need to replace the rim every other chain.
Mine was husky 61 over 25 yrs old, worn thru even worse than yours.
I looked it up on line & called them, they had the right PN in store.
Ended up a quick fix.

oregon look up PN# site
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
 

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maxed_out said:
It also allows you to run other chains if you have the associated bar.

That's something I didn't think about but will work now that I have the rim type.
Thanks.
I have some other 20" chains, with the right rim, maybe I can use them up.
 
Thanks guys, I dont understand all these different chain types, never even knew about them until I looked to buy a new saw chain online..
 
ggans said:
Thanks guys, I dont understand all these different chain types, never even knew about them until I looked to buy a new saw chain online..

Same for me. Have learned lots on this site.
I talked to the oregon dealer, he knows our 2 wood types & condition so he hooked me up with his recommendation.
Cuts good, no troubles so far. Couple of touch ups with the file.
I hear stihl make good chains to.
(I try to buy North American stuff when I can)
 
Looks like it's time for a replacement. Ever other year I go to the dealer and buy 2 loops of RSC and a new clutch drum for about $40. The first time I did this I was surprised how much less I was readjusting the chain tension. Last summer I changed to rim sprockets, the Oregon clutch hub and rim sprocket was only a couple more dollars than the Stihl drum and open sprocket. We'll see how well this works. IMO the rim sprocket should wear longer and be less $ to replace.
 
ggans said:
It's a bit out of focus but you can see the wear. I just noticed this , when is it considered replacement time..
When mine worn thru, the chain kept getting bound up. I though the chain was too tight, then I thought the roller tip was locked up, it started
wearing on the chain guides & the bar right where it leaves the sprocket, I figured it out just before it wore thru to the bearing which may have ruined the drive shaft.
If your are getting any of these symptoms, it's close to time.
I had to replace the bar also.
 
It may go a long time if you don't use the saw much. If you depend on it to work when you pick it up I'd pitch the hub and change to rim sprocket since you are buying new anyway.
Sure it will keep driving the chain, but the chain can only fit into the grooves that have formed, If you put a different chain or bar on, or even get a slight misalgnment, there will be a side load on the chain in the sprocket and the bar groove. creates more wear, especially right at the entrance to the bar groove.

Rims change out about $4 and can be reversed once (usually).
You can change from 7 to 8 pin rims to change the 'gear ratio' ande get more chain speed, but that is probably not applicable unless it is a good size motor.
Big advantage of the rim is that they float side to side and the chain rides the bar groove better.
 
dirttracker said:
Looks like it's time for a replacement. Ever other year I go to the dealer and buy 2 loops of RSC and a new clutch drum for about $40. The first time I did this I was surprised how much less I was readjusting the chain tension. Last summer I changed to rim sprockets, the Oregon clutch hub and rim sprocket was only a couple more dollars than the Stihl drum and open sprocket. We'll see how well this works. IMO the rim sprocket should wear longer and be less $ to replace.
+1
 
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