Is it worth the money?

[Shipper50]

I got a quote from my sweep to insulate my liner and put a new chimney crown on my fireplace chimney that has my liner for my insert.

He wants $ 1088.10 for the liner and $322.45 for the crown work. How much heat will I gain and no I dont have a block off plate yet, but if he pulls the insert as quoted, I will make sure I get a plate and rock wool around the insert.

Not sure I want to spend this much money since I dont know how long I will live here.

Thanks
Shipper

 

[rottiman]

considering that you are unsure as to how long you might reside there, only you can really make the determination. It certainly would be benefical for the performance, but like alot of household improvements, the next guy may care less about burning wood, so then it becomes a non-issue as far as a selling point. good luck.

 

[branchburner]

How much will you be saving on your heating bill? That could help you decide.

 

[wood-fan-atic]

I am no expert - but it seems to me that it would make sense to first install a block-off plate with some rockwool on top BEFORE going thru with that large expense. Are you experiencing any draft or creosote problems now? The block-off plate might be all you need.

 

[fireview2788]

The price on the liner sounds good. Mine cost $1000 for a cleaning, SS liner, and install of the stove.


fv

 

[begreen]

The price sounds good if it includes a full sweep and liner installation. The liner affects stove performance. It affects heat output indirectly if there is weak draft, but so can other factors like poor wood. A damper-sealing blockoff plate will definitely help the insert stay warmer.

What is the reason for the liner? Was last year's heating a disappointment or did the sweep point out the need for a liner as a safety issue? How is the insert currently connected? And how well seasoned was the wood that was burned?

 

[Shipper50]

The price sounds good if it includes a full sweep and liner installation. The liner affects stove performance. It affects heat output indirectly if there is weak draft, but so can other factors like poor wood. A damper-sealing blockoff plate will definitely help the insert stay warmer.

What is the reason for the liner? Was last year's heating a disappointment or did the sweep point out the need for a liner as a safety issue? How is the insert currently connected? And how well seasoned was the wood that was burned?

I have already paid for a sweep from this guy. He found I don't have any insulation on my liner and feels its against code? Not sure about that part. He did find a crack in my crown on top of the chimney.

I live in a log home with new windows and new metal roof and go through about 6 cords of wood to heat my house. I also have a wood furnace in my basement to help keep the temps livable when it gets really cold here. I know how everyone says to have a block off plate and will make sure I have that this year.

Just not sure how much having the liner insulated will help overall.

Shipper

 

[begreen]

Got it, sounds like you have a liner already, but it is not insulated, correct? Definitely put in the block-off plate. The liner should be insulated from a safety standpoint, but there are many here that are not.

How much crud do they get out of it when it's cleaned? If you are getting a lot of creosote buildup and/or glaze at the top, then insulating it will help reduce this to almost none as long as the wood being burned is well seasoned.

Still unclear, is the charge for a brand new insulated liner or just insulating the current liner?

 

[hwdemers]

Put on the block off plate. Then buy bagged insulation mix. Add water and insulate it yourself. The question of being up to code or not depends on whether or not you have the proper clearances around your chimney (how close is the framing)

 

[Shipper50]

Got it, sounds like you have a liner already, but it is not insulated, correct? Definitely put in the block-off plate. The liner should be insulated from a safety standpoint, but there are many here that are not.

How much crud do they get out of it when it's cleaned? If you are getting a lot of creosote buildup and/or glaze at the top, then insulating it will help reduce this to almost none as long as the wood being burned is well seasoned.

Still unclear, is the charge for a brand new insulated liner or just insulating the current liner?

The quote was for insulating the old liner. I burn seasoned wood, but did find out it was over 3 years before I got it cleaned. I dont normally go that long, but after having my knee replaced 2 times I lost track of how long I had the insert.

Also to answer doing my own work, I cant get up that high since I cant get around like I use to, so having this done by a pro might be the only way to go. I hope if I pay the money I will see a BIG difference in heat.

Shipper

 

[begreen]

I think you will notice a difference in heat output with the blockoff plate, but not with the insulated liner. That is a safety issue which is also not trivial.

 

[flueguyPA]

From what I can discern you have a fireplace with a wood stove insert, installed with a stainless liner that runs to the top of the chimney. I hope that is right anyway.

As far as insulating the chimney goes, the sweep may be referring to code when he tells you the liner should be insulated. If the liner was installed in a damaged terra cotta flue or a chimney that didn't have a terra cotta liner in it, MOST manufacturers require insulation to maintain their UL listing. If the old fireplace liner met code then the uninsulated liner could be code compliant, but that's a big if.

If the chimney is an exterior chimney then regardless of other issues, you could find that the insulation will help keep the liner warmer and reduce the creosote buildup. It would help on an interior chimney also but maybe not as noticeable. The biggest things that will influence creosote buildup in the liner will be the moisture content of the wood you are burning and the temperature you are burning at and the kind of stove you have. Do you have a newer type stove or an older creosote machine?

There certainly should be some type of barrier above the stove where the damper would have been to reduce the amount of heat going up the chimney and that will give you more heat in the room but still, you shouldn't be going through that much wood in a year unless you're heating a huge house (or using the aforementioned creosote machine).

The quote is for removing the current liner, insulating it and then REINSTALLING it? From a strict interpretation of code standpoint that would be a bit off unless he knows the brand of liner and it's listing requirements, but he could do it and accept the liability. The price seems a little pricey for that work and really cheap for replacing and insulating the liner with all new material. You should have him clarify exactly what he's doing. Depending on the size of the crown and what he's doing, replacing or coating the crown, the price sounds fair.

 

[Shipper50]

The quote I got from the sweep was for, set up of scaffolding, set up of ground ladder, removal for cap and removing my Regency insert. Cutting the liner that is on the insert now off 2 inches as he said it was too long. Wrapping liner with ceramic wool blanket and putting a stainless steel mesh sock over the insulation.

Then reinstall the insert and seal with high temp sealant. Nothing is mentioned about a block plate in the quote. Also apply chimney saver crown coat with a 15 year warranty. He sent pics of the crown showing a crack that needed sealing.

This guy is a certified sweep here in southern Indiana and has gone to school to keep up with his certification's. As for my wood, when I first used this insert I didn't have seasoned wood as I would like to have, but have seasoned wood now.

Thanks for the replies,
Shipper