Is my chimney too hot?? help

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I really hate to knock someone’s set up but something does not look right. I know you do not want to hear that after spending so much $$$. I would have a hard time believing that a WETT certified inspector would pass that installation. Not sure what the cost is to have someone professionally come take a look at it, a WETT inspector or fire marshal maybe? Would be worth the piece of mind if it were me. Do not get the same company to come back until you have another opinion and some research under your belt.
 
IMO that black pipe looks like double wall to me. But the Class A still does not come into the room far enough past the thimble, the black pipe gets too close to the wall in this situation.

Its a very clean and professional looking install, just a few safety issues as others have pointed out.
 
Thanks jtp. Looking at it again this morning. If that is ultra-black, then it would be double-wall pipe and installed correctly, not backwards and the ceiling clearance is ok.

The question of whether or not it is too hot remains. Some downdraft stove owners have reported high flue temps. This is top quality pipe, so we need more information about the stove make and model and actual temperature readings.
 
Before I had my Class A enclosed, I found that it was "hot" to the touch. But you have to keep in mind what exactly "hot" means. Hot to the touch and dangerously hot can be two different things. Water boils at 212F at sea level, and boiling water will certainly blister a man's skin. But 212F is not "hot" as far as flue gases go. In fact, most of what I've read states that you want flue gases at 250F to minimize condensation inside the flue.

Now, though my Class A was "hot" as far as my hand was concerned, I believe the 2" CTC is easily safe. You'd have to have something resting against the pipe to concern me. Holding my hand 2" away would have left me feeling almost nothing.

The only way to know for sure how hot that pipe is is to get an accurate reading from it's surface.
 
I would expect the Kodiak to have moderate flue temps in the 400 °F range. Real temps will help, even if they are from a simple stove top thermometer.
 
the tee can not be hanging like that it is supposed to have a support with it to support the weight of the system two the chimney needs to be enclosed in a living area, was the stove or the pipe smoking when you started a fire in it if not it has really not gotten that hot. but that install really dosent meet code i would call some one to come out and look at it and not the guy who pit it in!
 
yes, the stove was smoking upon first firing during the curing process.

For those that might know, is it possible for hot flue gases to leak into the outer, insulated part of the double walled pipe?

When we get some cooler weather again, I will see about getting some temp data.
 
Your wall thimble and the amount of class A pipe coming into the room still needs to be addressed for sure. The rest doesn't bother me to much. It will all work but the thimble is a fire hazard for sure. Welcome aboard.

Your gonna have fun cleaning that set up though.
 
the tee at the verticle piece has a removable bottom to facilitate cleaning, I presume.

ry=400.jpg



The pipe coming out of the stove just may be double walled...see pic and let me know what you think....the bottom surface in the pic is the stove itself.


ry=400.jpg
 
Yes, that looks like double-wall. jtp has a well-trained eye.
 
grizburner said:
the tee at the verticle piece has a removable bottom to facilitate cleaning, I presume.



Yes your vertical pipe will be easy to clean. Its the horizontal that will be a PITA every time you disassemble the 90 above the stove. Now if you have to enclose that tee and piping to meet code as others say, make sure a decent access door is provided.
;-)
 
grizburner said:
yes, the stove was smoking upon first firing during the curing process.

For those that might know, is it possible for hot flue gases to leak into the outer, insulated part of the double walled pipe?

When we get some cooler weather again, I will see about getting some temp data.
no it is not possible unless the chimney in not put together right or is damaged you really need to adress the way tha the tee and horizotal lenght is installed it is not safe! if it slips or becomes disconneted it could be very dangerous
 
Is there an additional support bracket at the floor level upstairs?
 
fossil said:
Third pic down is sideways, I think. Needs to be tilted 90° CCW to be correctly oriented.

Yes, there is a bracket at the floor level upstairs. The system feels very solid, so I'm not too concerned its going to come down.
 
are you talking about the bracket that you can see in the pic that is attached to the block of wood or is there anther one down lower?
 
stoveguy13 said:
are you talking about the bracket that you can see in the pic that is attached to the block of wood or is there anther one down lower?

No, there is another bracket down lower, its attached to the actual floor.
 
is it attached to the tee if so it should be fine if not you want to have them move it so it is
 
BLIMP said:
small fan blowing on horizontal pipe would cool it? blow on doublewall would cool better & avert the proximity to wall issue?

Fix it right as stove will be running the hottest when power is out, therefor no working fan me thinx.
Signed, Genus.
 
stoveguy13 said:
is it attached to the tee if so it should be fine if not you want to have them move it so it is

It is not required for the support bracket to be connected to the Tee. Download any install manual and you will see. For simpson duravent Class A pipe you can use a Tee support bracket above or below the Tee, connected to the Tee itself or the next section of pipe above or below. You can also use a "wing" support which I think is called an "adjustable roof support" in the catalog. This can be placed ANYWHERE in the vent system (even on the roof under the flashing, hence the name) and supports up to 60ft of chimney. I am guessing he has a wing style support mounted to the floor of the room in question. That is how I would plan out that install.

Like I said before, very pro looking install except they overlooked the minimum penetration of the Class A through the wall before connecting connector pipe. I would call and bring this to thier attention ASAP.
 
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