Is this good secondary burn?

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I'd recommend changing things slowly. Too many things changed in the off season will give you a new stove to figure out come regular burn season. If I remember right, you were from Southern NY. You aren't likely to see those temps. I didn't add the damper to stop an overfire condition. I'm a tinkerer by nature and over the last 10 years with a 2 cu ft stove in a 12x16ft room I've played with lots of different variables. Learning to read the fire by eye has been the most useful skill.
No. I’m from northern ny, last year the temperature was in negative -10 -20
 
No. I’m from northern ny, last year the temperature was in negative -10 -20
Hancock is in the SW part of NYS close to the PA border. It's south of Schenectady but yes, it can get very cold there too.
 
With the flue damper closed the flue temp should drop to about the same as the stove top or a bit lower.

I expect that is true with a probe meter but as measured with a surface meter on the flue wouldn't you expect to see half of what the stove top meter says?
 
Yes, good point. I am assuming he is doing the in-the-head calculation.
 
I have 30 ft of liner and PE Aldera T5 and added a key damper as it was a hot burning stove start w/o the damper closed once going i close it. works like a charm
 
I have 30 ft of liner and PE Aldera T5 and added a key damper as it was a hot burning stove start w/o the damper closed once going i close it. works like a charm

What elevation are you at?
 
Where is your air control set at, and how hot is the stove top.. that’s a beautiful burn
I'll be honest Itslay this stove is hot when it's like this but beautiful. My air intake is all the way down. It can rip. Thats in slow-motion. My flue is double wall and probe thermometer on, generally every burn, goes up to 1000° and then hovers around 900 for awhile and then slowly goes down. I'm getting 10 -12 hour burns now. I used to worry about it but I don't now. It's inspected evey year and my wood is now on a two year cycle. I mentioned key damper to my dealer and they vehemently said no way. Basically, like Heat.org, take your probe thermometer and chuck it. Lol. I can block the air intake but I find it gets too black in there. It's best the way it is. It just burns so clean. As it burns down the secondaries fire less often and they can look really cool. Mesmerizing. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Looks good to me. Sometimes mine won’t light the secondaries at all for some reason but it’s new and I’m still getting used to it.
 
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Looks good to me as well.
 
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Good so far, the cast iron looks great and convects good. Having the blower on low works even better but I haven’t needed it much so far this year, (it’s dec 30th and 41f).
Sometimes it acts funny and I’ll get no secondary combustion but it’s still new to me and I’m still figuring things out.
One annoyance is that my old stove had a 20” square firebox so some of my firewood is too long for the T5. I like to cut 16-17” for the T5 and some of my old wood it 18-20”. I just use a chop saw to cut it down, not a big deal.
PE seem like quality stoves.
 
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Good so far, the cast iron looks great and convects good. Having the blower on low works even better but I haven’t needed it much so far this year, (it’s dec 30th and 41f).
Sometimes it acts funny and I’ll get no secondary combustion but it’s still new to me and I’m still figuring things out.
One annoyance is that my old stove had a 20” square firebox so some of my firewood is too long for the T5. I like to cut 16-17” for the T5 and some of my old wood it 18-20”. I just use a chop saw to cut it down, not a big deal.
PE seem like quality stoves.
That’s good I’m happy for you, do you usually pack it or stack it loosely?
 
Pack it at night, it’s been so warm here that packing it in daytime would be too much heat.
It feels almost wasteful to run it during the day.
 
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