is this normal for auger feed setting 1

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hearthtools said:
burrman said:
is there a way to controll the flame on this?
do you have the owners manual?
this will tell you how to adjust the air draft.
if not search online you might get lucky and find one.

i looked and diddnt find nothing...hmmm
 
burrman said:
http://www.usstove.com/cgi-bin/csvsearchProdindivid.pl?ID=119

here is a owners man but i didnt find nething about it

that link would not work
 
ok this should work....thats you soo much for helping me and being here for me..i know i was an ass to some people today and now it seems they dont want to help me.....i found this i looked threw it but couldnt find nething accept for the trouble shooting section and i did all of this is says rich air/fuel mixture ..dont know how to fix tho
http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:4Je5y_B08IMJ:www.usstove.com/Downloads/Owners Manuals/5700 Owners Manual.pdf+ashley+heritage+model+5700+owners+manual&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us this mite work
 
Is that your outside air in the picture of the vent? If so how far away from the vent is it. Also do you have a screen inside the outside air pipe and if so what is its mesh size?

I know that if that air vent is too close to the vent you will suck some exhaust (oxygen poor air) back through the system. Also if the mesh is too small you'll restrict the air flow volume into the stove.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
Is that your outside air in the picture of the vent? If so how far away from the vent is it. Also do you have a screen inside the outside air pipe and if so what is its mesh size?

I know that if that air vent is too close to the vent you will suck some exhaust (oxygen poor air) back through the system. Also if the mesh is too small you'll restrict the air flow volume into the stove.
the vent is like a foot and half away from exhaust and below it......no mesh on vent(on to do list)
 
I'd suggest that you skip the mesh until you get any other questions taken care of.

I've gone through the manual for the 5700 and they make mention of making certain that the burn plate is properly seated in the burn pot so that the air goes through the holes in the plate and not around the plate. The other thing I noticed was that there is a burn pot gasket, if you have taken the burn pot off and put it back without replacing that gasket you could have a small bypass of incoming air.

I can't really tell how the pellets are acting in your burn pot and I know it is close to impossible to get a good picture, the pellets should be doing a little shuffle dance in the pot are they?

The other thing I'd suggest is to remove that 90 degree on the outside air and construct a baffle as pictured in the manual. I had issues with my stove that I could only clear up by removing that intake screen and 90 degree bend. Every bend acts to reduce air flow by increasing resistance caused by the piping.
 
There is mention in the manual of a means of having the top auger timing cycle changed from 6 seconds to 4 seconds, I haven't found how or where and suspect that a call to the manufacturer will be needed.
 
the manual was missing the illistrations but from what I read this stove is just like the older Englanders.

Like I said before Pull the whole stove apart and clean.
the leaf blower think does not clean everything

I can tell this stove has had some modifications (pressure switch bypassed) be cause you were running the stove with the door open and the manual has
Make sure that the viewing door and ash pan slides are securely closed (the safety pressure switch will not allow
the stove to feed fuel if there is no draft pressure inside the stove)

check the hopper
check the door
check the ash pan
check that dumbass burn plate
and be sure the intake air is clear.

also the manual state to have a min of 3 feet of vertical rise and to only use a T clean out.
I think the stove will work fine after you do a full service and correctly install it
 
It was mentioned before, but check to see if the stove has an attachment for an external thermostat. There may be an issue with that; shorted?. There should be a manual control and a thermostatic one, where the thermostat overrides the manual one.

Do not monkey with the air controls unless you have shop manual and patience to figure it out as they do NOT control burn rate, but burn QUALITY. Factory settings are best.

You should be able to make combustion air fan speed and fuel feed rate slow and increase. If you cannot, then there is something wrong.

You should have a stove pipe that extends above the roof line. Your current setup is for a gas fireplace and not suitable for a wood burner. Most wood burners have a minimal exhaust requirement.

You should consult the woodstove regulations of your city or county and conform for safety sake.

I would recommend that a used pellet stove without seeing it operating before buying and without the original manuals is next to worthless.

Good luck
 
Coyote2 said:
It was mentioned before, but check to see if the stove has an attachment for an external thermostat. There may be an issue with that; shorted?. There should be a manual control and a thermostatic one, where the thermostat overrides the manual one.

Do not monkey with the air controls unless you have shop manual and patience to figure it out as they do NOT control burn rate, but burn QUALITY. Factory settings are best.

You should be able to make combustion air fan speed and fuel feed rate slow and increase. If you cannot, then there is something wrong.

You should have a stove pipe that extends above the roof line. Your current setup is for a gas fireplace and not suitable for a wood burner. Most wood burners have a minimal exhaust requirement.

You should consult the woodstove regulations of your city or county and conform for safety sake.

I would recommend that a used pellet stove without seeing it operating before buying and without the original manuals is next to worthless.

Good luck

Welcome to the forums Coyote2.

There is in fact a way to control both the "burn quality" and burn rate, however the manual I downloaded is silent on how to accomplish that.

It would help a lot if the manual was complete, it is possible that the stove's burn characteristics have been adjusted and because of that, it isn't in factory default burn mode anymore. Once again failure to provide basic information in the manual prevents reseting to factory default. In that regard it is time to call the folks at the factory or a qualified service technician for that brand of stove.

One thing is certain however that stove requires a clear sealed air path from the air intake through the burn pot. Anything that gets in the way is a problem.
 
Couple things I have to question although the flame looks pretty good to me. Some pellet stoves are more prone to smoked up glass problems than others and you have to live with it.
You say your bro in law`s stove runs lower than yours. Maybe he uses different pellets or his draft or vent differs from yours. Might be that his is running unusually low for this brand stove?
Or could it be that your OAK is only 1-1/2" and the stove is a bit starved for air?
 
ok i let the stove run outa pellets this morn...now does this look right..dont look right to me
IMG_0285.jpg

IMG_0286.jpg

thanks
 
burrman said:
ok i let the stove run outa pellets this morn...now does this look right..dont look right to me
IMG_0285.jpg

IMG_0286.jpg

thanks

just looks like normal poor quality pellets and clickers to me.
what I am seeing is nice white ash on the sides of the stove and this tells me the stove is getting enough air now.
the last photos you had there was a lot of black on the sides and door.
 
I agree with Rod,

Scap the pot a little more often(couple times a day) and maybe try a few other pellets in your area.

We never did ask what pellet brand you were using?

jay
 
i am using pro pellets....i can live with the clickers i just scrape the pot like you said once in a whille..
 
IMG_0287.jpg

IMG_0288.jpg

IMG_0289.jpg

IMG_0290.jpg

ok i put the pipe higher up... flame looks beter but still a little hi but o well...ANYMORE SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS about my setup...(besides my hearth pad..in process) Please im all ears..alot of you has helped me alot this week thank you all and please ill take more comments and questing, concerns about my setup
~Rocky~
 
Max horiz run should not exceed 48" (at least with Harman) and it looks like you are close so I`d be sure to check / clean that section often.
 
burrman said:
IMG_0287.jpg

IMG_0288.jpg

IMG_0289.jpg

IMG_0290.jpg

ok i put the pipe higher up... flame looks beter but still a little hi but o well...ANYMORE SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS about my setup...(besides my hearth pad..in process) Please im all ears..alot of you has helped me alot this week thank you all and please ill take more comments and questing, concerns about my setup
~Rocky~

looks 100% better but
you need to put a rise on that horizontal pipe.
Even if you have to cut the hole bigger at the top of the themble to get it higher it is VERY important
 
I see you have 3" pipe ging up. I figure it is because that is what you had.
but normal you dont go down in size and how did you do that?
do you have the pipe backwards because duravent does not have a reducer that goes from 4 to 3 the the have an increaser that goes from 3 to 4

Male ends are meant to be pointing out. look at the flow arrow on the label
 
burrman,

That looks better, also Rod is correct about a slight rise being needed in a "horizontal run" it doesn't have to be much, just enough to stop soot from piling up big time in the run, you want the heated exhaust to always be rising as it leaves the stove.

Now you need to construct a baffle for the air intake, just to stop the wind from impacting the flame if it comes straight at the intake.

The only other way to lower the feed would involve talking to the manufacturer or a qualified tech for that brand.
 
the guy i bought it from had it put together(4 to 3) male to male with 4 hose clamps and a peice of metal around it...it holds good....then it fastened to the eves.. ok now what about the horizontal piece? gotta do what and why it seems to work just fine ,,please explain?
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
burrman,

That looks better, also Rod is correct about a slight rise being needed in a "horizontal run" it doesn't have to be much, just enough to stop soot from piling up big time in the run, you want the heated exhaust to always be rising as it leaves the stove.

Now you need to construct a baffle for the air intake, just to stop the wind from impacting the flame if it comes straight at the intake.

The only other way to lower the feed would involve talking to the manufacturer or a qualified tech for that brand.
o i c have to work on this..later this week
 
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