Is This Wood Worth It To Burn?

[turbocruiser]

I'd like to get some guidance on some firewood harvested from a friend's property. I took a chance on cutting up some logs which were laying on the ground for a full year and prior to that were standing dead somewhere around six years. When I was cutting it it seemed pretty solid but then again that was when winter was still in full freeze and I think these logs were "slightly frozen solid" if there is such a thing with wood. Anyway, as I'm splitting and stacking various sections I run across some that seem to be a bit "pithy" where I am able to see sections of wood where the cells seem cratered. Is this stuff worth my time to spit and stack and burn? Thanks as always.

 

[ScotO]

Looks like long-dead hickory that has been laying on the ground for a long time. There's a lotta punk in that wood, I'd be taking that stuff and putting it in the 'campfire' stack. I definately would NOT be wasting storage space for home-heating wood if it is all soft like that. Keep it dry too, that stuff will soak up water like a sponge.

 

[jeff_t]

Looks like long-dead hickory that has been laying on the ground for a long time. There's a lotta punk in that wood, I'd be taking that stuff and putting it in the 'campfire' stack. I definately would NOT be wasting storage space for home-heating wood if it is all soft like that. Keep it dry too, that stuff will soak up water like a sponge.

I concur. Wouldn't waste the effort.

 

[turbocruiser]

Okay, thanks for the advice these trees are all older pines of different varieties. I get all this wood for free so it isn't like I'm wasting money, just wasting the time it took to go and get it from the forest but I'm learning a lot as I go. At first I was avoiding anything where I could kick chunks off with my boot. Then I was also avoiding anything where I could easily cram the claw of an old hammer into it from the outside of the log. Now I guess I will also avoid anything that has this "cratered" look to it. I've noticed that once these particular trees have fallen on their own they are all almost too rotted to use as firewood. So now I'm trying to only cut ones that are all dead but still standing. Does that sound sensible or am I also wasting good wood that way? Thanks.

 

[Realstone]

IMO, your softness test is a good potential BTU indicator, even if it is pine. If you could bury your hammer claw into it, move on. If you can only dent it, keep it.

 

[Woody Stover]

A lot of times, only one side of the round will be punky and you can salvage some decent wood out of it. If you need the wood, you can try that. The stuff you can save might be pretty dry if you need it for next season. If it's all like the stuff in the pics, it might not be worth messing with. If you can save some of it, I would top-cover it because that semi-punky stuff will absorb water.

EDIT: I see that it's mostly Pine. Might be hard to find anything good as it rots fast.

 

[ScotO]

So now I'm trying to only cut ones that are all dead but still standing. Does that sound sensible or am I also wasting good wood that way? Thanks.

They don't necessarily have to be standing, you can also cut up blowdowns just make sure they are not all punky and soft. Usually though, more ought than not, if it has been laying down for many years on the ground, chances are it is rotted. Nothing wrong with learning as you go, we've all been there before.

 

[weatherguy]

Cutting the standing dead is a good way to go, should be dry and not punky.

 

[Wood Duck]

If you can keep the wood out of the rain, then punky stuff is less of a problem than it owuld be if you store wood uncovered. Punky woll will absorb rain and so it tends to be wet all winter. Either way I'd definitely choose the more solid wood first.

 

[chuckie5fingers]

If you can keep the wood out of the rain, then punky stuff is less of a problem than it owuld be if you store wood uncovered. Punky woll will absorb rain and so it tends to be wet all winter. Either way I'd definitely choose the more solid wood first.

completely agree
good luck
chuck

 

[Crane Stoves]

IMO, your softness test is a good potential BTU indicator, even if it is pine. If you could bury your hammer claw into it, move on. If you can only dent it, keep it.

love this scientific method of testing wood before putting in the labor, cost me alot of money for all the estwing equipment in the beginning but it still works flawlessly today! +1 advise right here^^^

 

[jeepmedic]

When I first got my boiler I burned everything I could scrounge up. I figured if it was free, i'd burn it. Some BTUs are better than none

It was nice for cleaning up the land too, getting all the dead up off the ground. Figured I could use it for heat or wait for summer and burn it.

Now that I am a few years ahead, those punky pieces go into the campfire pile.

 

[Punky]

Take it from me (Punky). I find the semi-rotted wood takes just as much time to process, but you end up with short burn times and a colder house. I guess its ok for shoulder season, but I say pass.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Right on Tony. It takes no longer to put up good wood as it does marginal wood so why not put your effort into getting good wood?