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Jotul 118 Value???

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by Carol, Jul 22, 2012.

  1. Michelle Gokey

    Michelle Gokey New Member

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    Oct 26, 2013
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    South Starksboro, Vermont
    That would be great....my email is michlola48@yahoo.com. We just realized that the we had the baffle in wrong..glad we figured out within the first 24 hours.

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  2. pnkn

    pnkn New Member

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    Hello - newbie to forum here. I am going to look at an old 118 which is supposed to have been cared for by one owner. Here is a link to the ad. http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/hsh/4243877974.html
    I am wondering about the crack, and have been reading about 118s cracking. No activity on the stove as far as sale, and I am only able to afford $300, is that insulting ? Also, I,too, would like whatever manual info. I note that perhaps the pdf on this site that was recently posted is for a newer model than the one I hope to look at, based upon weight of fuel load specification.
    Many thanks, Pnkn
    familiar with 70's and 80's Defiants, Intrepid I, and a <G> tiny USSC box stove.
  3. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    49,690
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    With a crack your offer is not too low. If the stove was in perfect condition it would be worth about $450-600. The concern is that the burn plates or baffle may be shot in the stove. If they need replacement, it's worth about $200 or less. Usually a hairline crack will develop from overheating. If you look at the horse's back you can see what looks like charred enameling. It should be green, not grey.
    I would not buy this stove without inspecting the interior burn plates and the whole body carefully. If the burn plates and baffle are in good shape (no cracks or warpage) or have been replaced, then the stove is worth about $300 assuming that hairline crack is now protected by the burnplate. The crack spread can often be contained by drilling a tiny hole at each end, then rubbing in some furnace cement into it.
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2013
  4. pnkn

    pnkn New Member

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    Thanks ! I have the following info:
    "Crack is in the side panel, and has been there for years, it does not open up or let air in the stove. Every year before heat season, I would clean the stove for my Mother, and place stove cement over the crack area to protect the stove sides. The stove does have new removable stove interior side panels (see attached owner’s manual)".
    You are suggesting that hopefully as long as there is a physical piece of baffle between the fire and the stove wall proper where the crack is hopefully this would offer the protection that the crack needs.

    Are parts still available for a stove this old ?

    This is not my dream stove (Jotul TL50, I don't bend), just something to get me through this winter where we have already had nights to 20F and daytime highs in low 30s. (Today excepted).

    How difficult would it be to change the flue exit from the side that it is currently on to ideally the rear or to the other side ? I suppose it depends upon how set the screws holding the stove pipe are ?


    Thanks
  5. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    The F118 is a very respectable heater. It is easy to run and definitely puts out the heat. I haven't changed out the flue port on one of these, but Jotul built them simple and to last. I would expect there to be a couple screws holding in the side plate that match the flange mount for the flue collar. You can still get parts for the stove. Woodmans Parts Plus sells the baffle and side-burn plates. http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/catalog.aspx I would also expect the door gasket needs to be replaced given its age.
  6. pnkn

    pnkn New Member

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    Thanks for all the info !
  7. pnkn

    pnkn New Member

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    well, I didn't buy it. Crack was through and through, the entire height of the panel, and all along the horse's back. Too much for me in an old stove. I was also suprised by the small size of the loading door and the narrow width. Height and depth were good.

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