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Jotul 201 Turbo Manual + Questions

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by prtp3warrior, Nov 17, 2008.

  1. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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    Here are .Jpg s of the manual I recieved from Jotul.

    I will also try and post them in the wiki later.

    Attached Files:

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  2. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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    I have one question for you all. On page * three, it seems to say that under the stove I need two layers of 3/8 inch Milliboard. Is that really what I am seeing? That seems strange to me. Does it really get that hot under there? Is it possible to use some type of brick instead?



    Anyway, thanks for all of your help and hopefully this manual will help someone down the road.

    Attached Files:

  3. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    If it's calling for 3/4" of millboard, it sounds like it gets hot down there. There isn't much of a base on the stove, so I would follow the manual.

    If you have any problems posting this let me know. I can create a PDF from the pages to make it a single document.
  4. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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    That is unfortunate. What I have purchased are pieces of stove board. I really do not want to stack them. Does anyone know of any alternatives ie. brick or some type of hearth.
  5. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Bricks are not the greatest insulator. Millboard has an R value of about R 1.2 for 3/8", brick has an R value of about .2, so it would take a few courses of brick to satisfy requirements.

    Would you be willing to build a hearth? Or are you looking for something easy? There is a product called Micore that is a good insulator, R 2.33 per inch. But it's soft and needs a non-combustible stiffner on top for the stove. This could be cement board or perhaps a layer of bricks held captive with some 2 or 3" high side trim? Or the cement board could be a backer for a nice tile top.
  6. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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    Well, I am not opposed to building a hearth. I think they look great. The only problem is that the ones I have looked at seem to be raather expensive and not moveable. Our house is very small and this stove is only to be seasonal. I have been trying to find the K value of my stove board but it does not seem to be listed with the board instructions. .

    Also, the stove manual itself is confusing for me. As you can see, on page three it states " 2 layers of 3/8 inch millboard *where* K= or< .84 BTu..." does *where* mean so that they combine for K = .84 or does it mean that .84 is the rating of each layer.

    This is getting interesting. :)
  7. rafael207

    rafael207 New Member

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    Hi,
    I just found the manual here after searching for quite some time. Thanks! I am cleaning up a 1981 jotul 201 wood stove. Here is my question. on the ceiling of the bottom chamber there is a hole that has been formed from what I can see many years of use. There is a insulation kind of material falling out when I touch it. What is this layer? and is it something I need to replace/ will be able to replace? see pics...
    any help would be great thanks!
    raf

    Attached Files:

  8. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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    I am not real sure about what that stuff is. There should be a catalyst in that top chamber. Is there?
  9. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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  10. irover

    irover New Member

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    The 201 i have has a radiation shield under it. In the Norweigan and Swedish manuals requirements are only a sheet metal on the floor (wood) that protects it , minimum dimensions 350 by 800 mm and at least 300 mm in front of the hatch.in fact It does not get hot at all underneath even when vividly fired, the sheet metal on the floor stays cold. I guess US has tougher regulations than Scandinavia or the heat shield was an option in some countries.
  11. prtp3warrior

    prtp3warrior Member

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    Mine does not have a radiation shield. I have two layers of the Stove board you can buy at Lowes or Ace. It works well but it does get pretty hot. Do you like your 201? I Love mine.
  12. irover

    irover New Member

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    Well, I paid 200 dollars second hand and it has been used before me 3 months in 25 years! The heat it produces is fantastic and wood consumption is a lot less than the crappy insert i used before. I have placed it in the kitchen of my house and i particularly fancy the possibility to cook on its top plate! I do not get long burns from it, and as the sales brochure from 1984 says you can keep it running overnight but there´s no way it will. The ash pan is a bit small maybe.
    I have experience with the VC Intrepid II cat stove, and it gives the same heat output but can do very long burns thanks to its slow combustion and bigger firebox. It is generally easier to get the fumes to lit in the intrepid cat stove that in the Jotul, you need to have a pretty high temperature or it will not lit up. When it burns correctly only vapor is seen from the chimney.

    But all in all i am very impressed of the Jotul! It really it is an engineers stove with its bizzare shape and its peep window! Build quality is really fantastic!
  13. calcifer

    calcifer New Member

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    prpt3warrior-

    Hi There -

    I'm a new owner of one of these stoves (201)- - I took mine completely apart today, and found out quite a bit. My heat shield is a thick, dense fiberglass blanket, inside a lightweight steel box, which clips in under the stove. I can't tell from your pictures if your stove has it or not- but it fits right between the legs of the stove, and there should only be an inch or so under this box. If the stove is tilted on it's side, you can pull it out and look at it, if you have one, it just kind of springs out if you pull a bit. Careful- though I'm sure you already know - the top is not bolted on - so remove it first (at least mine is not bolted on).

    Also - that funny shaped thing that Rafael207 noticed a hole in- is a cast iron baffle in the primary combustion chamber. Mine is cracked, but not broken through. I couldn't see this properly before I took it apart and cleaned it off. I was thinking about making a mold of mine, and making several copies- if you guys were interested- seeing as they aren't making parts for our stove any more. If we could find some more owners who need this part - we might be able to make it affordable.

    I don't know if you guys are aware of the historic significance of these stoves. Only 1000 made in 81,82.
    The first clean burning stove ever manufactured. Most every Modern non-catalytic wood stove is based on that patent.

    Anyway - I thought I'd let you guys know about my idea to make copies of that baffle. Every other part on my stove is in great shape, with the exception of the lightweight refractory bricks, and the 1" thick piece of fiberglass mat above the broken baffle.

    I'm excited to finish rebuilding mine, but I want to try to do it right. . .

    Happy burning --

    - David
  14. irover

    irover New Member

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    my heat shield is just a black sheet metal tray with bent edges sitting about half an inch from the bottom of the stove between the legs. It leaves a 2-3 inches gap to the floor. But it is very effective. I read an article in norweigan about the inventor of this stove but i can´t remember his name. It was the first clean burn stove ever as you say.
  15. calcifer

    calcifer New Member

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    I-rover-

    You have the same heat shield as I do I think. I'm heading to downtown Seattle tommorow to get some more refractory bricks for my 201. I need to call and ask about casting services too, to see how expensive it would be to have replacement baffles cast.
  16. irover

    irover New Member

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    Maybe, i can not see any glass fibre mat in it though.
    i repaced one of my bricks bought a piece of 30mm thick refractory material and used an old brick as a template to cut out a similar one with a wooden saw. The thick ones in the top chamber are in good shape.
  17. calcifer

    calcifer New Member

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    Hi I-rover,

    My stove is all re-gasketed and put back together. Mostly newly cut refractory bricks now. The fiberglass gaskets were tricky.. I'm having a hard time finding any smaller than 1/4". That seemed a little thick for at least one or two of the seams.

    If I can find enough people interested in a new baffle plate, I'll remove mine again and make some copies. I just want to make sure there isn't anything wrong with mine if it's going to be used to make copies from. It doesn't sit flush against the plate it rests on, just kindof wiggly shaped plate, with two sagging bowl shapes underneath.

    I'm excited to try it out for the first time. I'm going to let the mortar dry for several days and give it a go.
  18. beeman49

    beeman49 New Member

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    I am sitting here being warmed by my 201. I would love to have another cast iron "roof" to the firebox if you are still interested in having them made. I actually have two 201's. When they outlawed them in Spokane I found a new one that they couldn't sell so I bought it and used my original one for parts. Have been using them for 25 years now. Great stoves.

    The plate should be flat. The bowls are because the plate has warped. My first one burned through completely. It still worked but you could see the insulation above the plate. It did effectively make the firebox smaller. You will have to find someone who can make a casting mold then modify it to make it flat again.

    I just found a site where I can buy some of the insulating firebricks for the stove.

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