Jotul 500 Oslo questions

[Hanko]

Ok so I ended up with the stickey air lever problem like everyone else. I have a call into my dealer to address this issue. So what everyone done to fix theirs? Also Having some issues getting the thing going in the morning. with a decent coal bed I put 3 or 4 splits in close the door and open up the air. It seems like it takes a long time to get it going. Ive even had to leave the loading side door open to help, and Ive even opened up the ash door to speed things up. wood seems to by dry, and the chimney is 16 ft straight up except for the 90 that goes thru the wall into the garage. wshen I dfo finally get her going I have to leave the air open for longer than I think to keep it going or go into the secondary burn mode. any Ideas?

 

[Hanko]

Onr thing i forgot to mention, Im assuming that I must have some sort of draft problem. Where I leave the stove and 90 thru the wall into the garage the stove pipe run downhill very slightly. I mean maybe a 1/2 inch from the 90 to the wall, could that be my problem. Ive been told it should go uphill from the stove to the chimney.

 

[ansehnlich1]

I think the air control lever problem varies from stove to stove. Mine works fine now, what I did was take off the cover right inside the front door and made sure no furnace cement was in there in the way, you know, causing the slider to stick and work hard. Then I dumped a whole bunch of graphite powder on the slide and I piled it up real good where the lever goes through the 2 uprights on the slider. I've done this twice so far and my lever works real good now. I also did the quarter trick.

Do a search on Jotul Oslo air control lever and you'll get several threads on this issue.

Say what kind of chimney you have? My stove vents to an exterior masonry chimney, I keep the side door open for a bit when reloading, maybe 3 to 5 minutes or so, from what I've read that ain't too unusual.

Read here all about burning in the EPA stoves, they work different than the stoves of old.

 

[Hanko]

sounds just like mine, now my other stove in the shop takes off like a rocket soon as you put wood in it or open the air(dutchwest). Maybe thats the nature of the beast. to answer your question, I have a class A metalbestos chimney. But I also have an Electria Glide, NO VIBRATION. I had one like your a 95, shook the fillings right out of my teeth

 

[SPED]

I used graphite as well, not sure how long it will last, but hopefully I'll have my new handle soon.

 

[begreen]

Stove pipe should never run downhill. Fix that problem asap. The stove will perform better and you'll see an improvement.

For starting on a coal bed that is petering out, here's what works for me: Try putting a couple kindling pieces about 1-2" in diameter north/south, about 6" apart, as support for the next layer. Then put larger pieces, say 4" splits, loaded east/west on top of the "supports". Leave the door cracked open for about 5-10 minutes. If the wood is dry, it should take off quickly.

 

[Hanko]

thanks, I talked to my dealer a few minutes ago, of course she knows how to sell them, but I doubt she knows which end of a screwdriver to pick up, Nice gal although. I didnt even bring up the pipe issue, but I did the air control. she claims they know nothing as far as stickey air controls. I can address that myself. I plan on tearing into it this weekend when it warms up. I used that double wall stove pipe with the stainless liner that interlocks and a piece cant be shortened up, but they do make a slider piece that I can make work I guess, so she says. Doesnt sould like a big deal. I have been concerened about the fall going the wrong way. Didnt realize it might effect the performance of the stove

 

[ansehnlich1]

sounds just like mine, now my other stove in the shop takes off like a rocket soon as you put wood in it or open the air(dutchwest). Maybe thats the nature of the beast. to answer your question, I have a class A metalbestos chimney. But I also have an Electria Glide, NO VIBRATION. I had one like your a 95, shook the fillings right out of my teeth

Man I gotta tell ya, I put a whole PILE of graphite on that bad boy, especially where that lever goes through those two little uprights, you'll see when you get in there. The quarter trick involved loosening the nut underneath the lever, then inside the dogbox where the slide is, put a quarter in under that end of the lever, then tighten down the nut. It's supposed to bend the lever ever so slightly, don't know if I'd do it if I were you, I'd try the graphite first. The tolerances between that lever and the front door opening/closing, along with the ash lip clearance, you don't wanna bend that lever too darn much.

Hey, my old heritage don't vibrate, BWAHAHAHHBWHAHAHAHA

My dad has an ultra-classic, difference is night and day between his and mine

I got some pipes on mine with a Big Sucker air cleaner, that pepped it up a bit, but it sure ain't faaaaaaaast ya know.

sounds good and gets 40 mpg , too old to be racin' around anyway!

 

[jbrown56]

Hanko, Since the stove was purchased new in Oct,. I've had the dealer to fix this twice. I could've done this myself, but I didn't want any warranty problems in case I would have to have the dealer come out in the future. The first time they installed a new lever, put graphite in the channel and it lasted two weeks. The second time, from what I could see the slide end of the lever has a slight bend downward and when tightened from below, it causes down pressure on the damper plate. They did a "custom" bend on the damper slide end of the lever, sprayed high temp grease in the channel and it has been fine for about a month. The dealer was very good about dealing with this ongoing problem.

Jim