Jotul F600 is in!!!!

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NordicSplitter

Minister of Fire
May 22, 2011
541
Western,NY
Installed on Friday and it looks great. Pictures are coming. A few questions on this stove though:
1. Damper seems to only open about 75% of the way. Closes all the way but only opens 3/4's. Should I call back the installers or just giggle it to death?
2. Stove was painted mojave red. First 2 burns it stunk and the living room got smokey. First fire 250-300 degrees....2nd fire 350-400 degrees. I take it the paint is curing. Only serious concern is smoke was coming out of the blower area. Blower was not on. Smoke also was emitting from the cook top area. How many more fires before this is cured? Plan on having another fire tomorrow afternoon and want to get it up to 500-600 degrees. Good idea?....Thoughts would be appreciated.
Oh ya... used pallet woood and some ash for those first 2 fires.
 
Congratulations!

I am in the process of doing my burn-in with my new F600. The manual states the three burn in fires should be done at 200, 300 and 400 degrees. I would stick with that, and even after the third burn in I would ease into going full bore with the stove.

As for the smoke- I am certain it ws just paint curing smoke coming out of the blower. This should pretty much stop after the third burn in fire.

Good luck with the stove! I will be curious to see how it performs for you (and me!). Too bad the burn in fires cause so much smoke- would love to capture the heat coming off the stove as I watch the thermometer here drop!
 
Haha...small world. Living room after an hour shot up to 86.....upstairs to 76!...By by heat bills. Did your damper stick or no? Just curious
 
If you mean the air control, no, did not stick. Actually, i was amazed at how easily I was able to dial in the temperature of the fire. Let the heat go to 200, shut down air, BAM! 200.....let the heat go to 300, shut down air, BAM! 300......A lot different than the voodoo science needed to dial in the old Vigilant.
 
I'm sure the air control is similar to the F500. The only sticking I had early on was the lever touching the exterior tray under the front door. I have never had any internal sticking problems with mine.
 
Congrats on you stove. F600 is a great stove.

"Smoking up" your living room sounds more like a problem with establishing a draft than paint curing. This can happen when the chimney/flue is not warm. Paint curing might smell, but should not produce visible smoke.

You may want to pre-heat your flue or search this forum for articles on "establishing a draft." With my F500, I used a little space heater for a couple minutes to heat up the fire box. Since then, I have connected some flex pipe to the outside air intake and now use a heat gun for about a minute. I need to do this if the stove is cold, or else it will start pulling combustion air from the flue instead of the room. Once the draft goes in the right direction, no problem pulling air up.

GE
 
Nordic-

Quick question- how long does it take for your stove to come up to heat? It seems like mine is taking a long time to get hot.

Perhaps just operator error- too used to the old Vigilant that heated very quickly.
 
About 15-20 minutes to get to about 350+...........I guess to eliminate the smoke I have to start small slow fires to warm up the flue for draft purposes. Thats my guess.....make sense???
 
NordicSplitter said:
About 15-20 minutes to get to about 350+...........I guess to eliminate the smoke I have to start small slow fires to warm up the flue for draft purposes. Thats my guess.....make sense???

Yeah, I think I might be loading her up a bit too soon...will have to let the small fires burn a little longer before stocking her up.
 
To check if your draft is moving air up the chimney, opening the loading door of the stove, light a match and hold it in the open door of the stove. If the flame bends into the stove, you have a draft going up the chimney. If the flame bends out of the stove, then you have air coming down the chimney and you need to reverse the air flow or you will smoke up the room.

With some set ups, this can be done with balling up a couple pieces of newspaper and putting them up in the stove, as close to the flue as possible. I used to be able to reach through the bypass damper on my old stove and get the newspaper in the bottom of the flue. Then lighting the newspaper will create enough heat to reverse the air flow and create a draw through the flue. Always worked on my old stove.

However, on my F500, the baffle plate is in the way and I can only put the newspaper on top of the baffle plate. For me this doesn't seem to work too well (I have the stove set up with a rear discharge with the flue going back another 8" to a Tee), as the air is usually still pulled from the flue to burn the paper. So i just use a little electric heat with a little blower (heat gun), which does the trick for me. Hair dryers work well too.

It is not the size of the fire, but how quickly can you get the heat of the fire to overcome the draft going the wrong way. With the baffle plate, the problem can be getting the heat to the back of the stove and into the flue when the air is coming down the chimney.

Usually, I won't have this problem even a day after a fire has gone out (residual heat from the stove). Only when the stove has been cold for more than a couple days.

Also, something seems wrong if you air control lever is sticking at 3/4 open. That should freely slide from full open to full closed. On the F500 this is real easy to check by removing two bolts from the "doghouse" covering the air intake mechanism. Since it is a new stove that you paid for installation, you might want to have the stove shop check it out if you are not adventurous.

GE
 
Installed on Friday and it looks great. Pictures are coming. A few questions on this stove though:
1. Damper seems to only open about 75% of the way. Closes all the way but only opens 3/4's. Should I call back the installers or just giggle it to death?
2. Stove was painted mojave red. First 2 burns it stunk and the living room got smokey. First fire 250-300 degrees....2nd fire 350-400 degrees. I take it the paint is curing. Only serious concern is smoke was coming out of the blower area. Blower was not on. Smoke also was emitting from the cook top area. How many more fires before this is cured? Plan on having another fire tomorrow afternoon and want to get it up to 500-600 degrees. Good idea?....Thoughts would be appreciated.
Oh ya... used pallet woood and some ash for those first 2 fires.

Hi NordicSplitter.

I have a F600 as well, but not with the blower. My stove is in the basement and I was wondering if perhaps I should get the blower. Did you install it yourself, or did it come already installed?

Thanks.

Laurent
 
1. Damper seems to only open about 75% of the way. Closes all the way but only opens 3/4's. Should I call back the installers or just giggle it to death?

It does look as if the lever which controls the air should move all away across from the + to the - on either side of the decorative shell, but it doesn't. Fully to the minus side and only about 75% toward the plus side is pretty much exactly the same in my F600. At 75% toward the plus (fully open) side, you're letting in all the air that's possible in this stove. Likewise on the closed side: it's admitting as little air as it was designed for.
 
Hi NordicSplitter.

I have a F600 as well, but not with the blower. My stove is in the basement and I was wondering if perhaps I should get the blower. Did you install it yourself, or did it come already installed?

Thanks.

Laurent
2011 install.
 
haha
 
2011 install.
Was it difficult to install? Can you describe it for me? Just trying to get a sense f what I am getting myself into.

Laurent
 
The F600 is no more difficult to install than other large stoves. You need to honor or exceed the minimum clearance and hearth requirements and connect it to a good flue. Start a new thread on the topic if you have questions specific to your install.
 
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