Jotul Firelight and Oslo Questions

[begreen]

Sounds good, congratulations. Doesn't the top come off the stove to facilitate cleaning?

 

[logger]

Thanks again for all the info. Can the Firelight ans Oslo be run at very low levels for long burn times without backupffing? As I right this, I have the VC fired up; it certainly runs much better with the new CAT, but I still noticed some sudden bursts in the firebox when the air control was set low. It cured itself when I raised the control a bit, but this is the type of thing that I don't want to have to worry about. For a while it was running great at the low level, but for some reason, there was suddenly very little flame in the firebox, and therefore more smoke buildup which seemed to cause the burst.

I wonder how the Firelight/Oslo can handle low settings, since I thought that CAT stoves handle that better than non-CAT stoves.

My buddies VC cat does this almost everytime after a certain point, it just cherries the wood away without a flame for hours. My Oslo burns a flame much longer and they usually don't disapear until the very end of the cycle and the woods burned. Needless to say, my friend is a bit envious of the Oslo's burn and will probably be getting a new stove shortly. Never had back puffing or any smoke issues on low settings. I light her up, let her hit 500-600, cut the air back in a few intervals, and let the secondaries take flight with the air 3/4 closed (closed all the way for overnighters or the workday). Towards the end of the cycle I usually turn the air back up to get rid of some coals and get the bed hot for a second load.

 

[grommal]

Thanks again for all the info. Can the Firelight ans Oslo be run at very low levels for long burn times without backupffing? As I right this, I have the VC fired up; it certainly runs much better with the new CAT, but I still noticed some sudden bursts in the firebox when the air control was set low. It cured itself when I raised the control a bit, but this is the type of thing that I don't want to have to worry about. For a while it was running great at the low level, but for some reason, there was suddenly very little flame in the firebox, and therefore more smoke buildup which seemed to cause the burst.

I wonder how the Firelight/Oslo can handle low settings, since I thought that CAT stoves handle that better than non-CAT stoves.

I run my Oslo's air intake somewhere between "fully closed" and "3/4 closed", depending on the fuel load, desired heat output, and desired burn time. It runs great long and slow. And after 3.5 cords of wood this past winter, I had a cup of creosote total after a good brushing. So, it runs clean in these conditions, too.

 

[grommal]

Sounds good, congratulations. Doesn't the top come off the stove to facilitate cleaning?

The entire top of an Oslo lifts off once you remove the three bolts that hold it. I've heard that lots of folks just leave those bolts out, since the tops are heavy enough to seal just from the weight. My chimney configuration and cleaning process doesn't require this access, so I have not removed mine. Maybe after a few years, I'll pop it off just to clean off the underside of the lid and gently vacuum the whole blanket surface.

 

[semipro]

Lastest update: after the last episode with the Defiant, I have decided to switch to the Jotul Firelight. The chimney sweep has agreed to the trade, but he needs to check if the baffle can be removed in a rear vent situation to facilitate flue cleaning.

Does anyone know if this is possible?

I can tell you that that you can easily remove the whole top or just the griddle on the Oslo to allow cleaning. Its easier than removing the baffle. I suspect the Firelight is the same.

 

[Gridlock]

Thanks guys. Are the secondaries firing when the stove is run that low? I thought that non-CAT stoves require very high temperatures (and therefore higher air volume) in the firebox to keep the secondaries active.

 

[grommal]

Not having run a cat stove I can only hazard a guess here, but I'm thinking if you were looking for long, low burns the cat stove would be the better choice . . .

That said, during this time of year when it gets chilly in the evenings or on a rainy day you simply make a single fire, let it warm up the place and burn out . . . and let the cast iron bulk radiate heat out . . . the other trick is to simply not put in your high BTU wood or not do a full load . . . quite honestly it's rare that I overheat the house.

As for backpuffing with the air cut back . . . it can happen . . . I've seen it a couple of times . . . but both times they were my fault. I cut the air back too much, too soon on the first fire . . . normally it's a non-issue.

Interestingly, I ran the stove last night with the damper open (CAT NOT engaged) and the air control at the lowest setting; it ran great all night and the stovetop temperature this morning was still over 300 degrees after running for about 9 hours! I had to desingage the CAT due to a runaway condition; I had to open the air control a little after the backpuffing started again which seemed to cause both the CAT chamber (over 2000 degrees) AND stovetop (750 degrees) to get out of control. At that point I opened the damper and reduced the air control, which after about 10 unsettling minutes, got the stove under control. From then on it burned well.

My VC used to "burn well" like this, too. It made a barrel full of creosote in the chimney, but at least it didn't backpuff!

 

[Gridlock]

I can tell you that that you can easily remove the whole top or just the griddle on the Oslo to allow cleaning. Its easier than removing the baffle. I suspect the Firelight is the same.

Thanks, that's good news. The sweep mentioned that with older Jotul stoves (maybe CAT versions?) they had to be pulled forward in a situation where it is in front of a fireplace due to the back vent.

 

[grommal]

Thanks guys. Are the secondaries firing when the stove is run that low? I thought that non-CAT stoves require very high temperatures (and therefore higher air volume) in the firebox to keep the secondaries active.

Secondaries very active even with the air "fully closed" and cruising for an 8+ hour burn on an Oslo. Keep in mind that the air control doesn't really fully close, and also that the secondary tubes are supplied with air in addition to the primary air that comes down the airwash and in the inlets on the bottom front.

 

[Gridlock]

My VC used to "burn well" like this, too. It made a barrel full of creosote in the chimney, but at least it didn't backpuff!

Good to know I'm not the only one with this problem! According to the sweep, the stove works great is some installations, but not well in others. He thinks the problem might be related to a combination of a foot long horizontal flue run, and a 6 inch corrugated pipe. I certainly hope the Jotul 'likes' these conditions better! I do have 25 foot height on the pipe which certainly helps with the draft, and I had no problems with running the stove without the CAT.

 

[Gridlock]

Secondaries very active even with the air "fully closed" and cruising for an 8+ hour burn on an Oslo. Keep in mind that the air control doesn't really fully close, and also that the secondary tubes are supplied with air in addition to the primary air that comes down the airwash and in the inlets on the bottom front.

Good to know, thanks!

 

[firefighterjake]

Sounds good, congratulations. Doesn't the top come off the stove to facilitate cleaning?

As mentioned yes . . . although I have not done so yet . . . I did take off the center plate though last Spring for cleaning.

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks guys. Are the secondaries firing when the stove is run that low? I thought that non-CAT stoves require very high temperatures (and therefore higher air volume) in the firebox to keep the secondaries active.

If you mean are the secondaries still firing after adjusting the air control to the fully closed or nearly closed position . . . yes . . . if you've already brought the stove to a high enough temp to sustain the secondaries . . . once the temp is high enough and the secondaries are firing I start to close off the air until like others it is all the way shut or nearly shut . . . as long as the temps are good it will continue to do so for quite some time. It does need oxygen to keep things going . . . but the real key is to get the stove hot enough and get the right mix of O2 coming into the firebox.


If you mean are the secondaries firing when the stove temp is that low . . . well no . . . the Oslo and other non-cat stoves don't really burn long and low all that well compared to cat stoves . . . you can turn down the air, but the key ton controlling the temp is in the amount of fuel and type of fuel in the firebox . . . more so than the air control.