Just bought splitter

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gzecc

Minister of Fire
Sep 24, 2008
5,123
NNJ
Its bigger than I thought it was. Anyone know the make/manufacturer? It came from a rental store. Its probably 20yrs old.
The front seal of the cylinder has a leak. Can this be fixed?
The engine is also frozen. I do have an engine, we'll see how that goes.
 

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Looks custom to me. The stickers on the side are from the rental store I'd assume.
Without a cylinder manufacturer you'll have a hard time getting a rebuild kit. Then again it could just be an O-ring.
How much did you pay for it?
 
Sorry blew up the pic, those are warning stickers, so probably a real manufacturer.
What's up with the other hyd line, it must disconnected and stuffed under the cylinder?
Appears you've got a project on your hands
 
Paid 400. The guy broke the upper hose off the cylinder when loading it. How is the cylinder repaired? I assume I need to find a shop in my area that repairs hydraulic cylinders?
 
I'm going to call it like I see it. By the time you make the needed repairs you would be to close to a new Speeco for me to have made that deal. Plus I could very well be wrong but seeing how large that foot is compared to how its anchored on the beam that unit might be running lower pressure than most do today. Too many lights going off in my head when I saw that pic.
 
wkpoor said:
I'm going to call it like I see it. By the time you make the needed repairs you would be to close to a new Speeco for me to have made that deal. Plus I could very well be wrong but seeing how large that foot is compared to how its anchored on the beam that unit might be running lower pressure than most do today. Too many lights going off in my head when I saw that pic.
Fortunately I have an engine and a lot of time to fix it. I haven't worked in weeks. If I made a mistake than I made a mistake. I see what splitters sell for in my area. I guess we'll see.
 
gzecc said:
wkpoor said:
I'm going to call it like I see it. By the time you make the needed repairs you would be to close to a new Speeco for me to have made that deal. Plus I could very well be wrong but seeing how large that foot is compared to how its anchored on the beam that unit might be running lower pressure than most do today. Too many lights going off in my head when I saw that pic.
Fortunately I have an engine and a lot of time to fix it. I haven't worked in weeks. If I made a mistake than I made a mistake. I see what splitters sell for in my area. I guess we'll see.
WKpoor, how much do you think it should have sold for?
 
Looks like a good sized clyender the pump is probly a single stage or the ends would push off. If you put on a two stage pump the ends will need to be renforced as the cly looks to be 4 or 5". If you take it to a shop be sure to check the plunger packing while it is apart. If the tire looks good put about a cup of antifrize inside and put some air in then turn the tire around so it will find any leaks then
fill it up this will seal any small leaks sometimes it will take a day or so to seal all leaks just keep filling it up this should take care of any leaks good idaer to put some in the other tire also this has worked well for me works for all tubeless wheelbarrow,boat lawnmower ect.
Good luck whitepine2
 
I was wondering about a possibility it was a single stage pump too but thought I had better stop where I was. That cylinder on 2 stage would certainly push that foot right off. Anyway I bought a real nice factory built splitter beam assembly that had everything but was missing a motor for 200.00 2yrs ago for my uncle. He put an engine off an almost new chipper he already owned and that was all he had in it. It's been flawless ever since.
If the pump is indeed single stage then I guess I would have gave scrap price for it and hoped for the best. Don't worry gzecc, I've made way worse deals in my time and probably will again. My and my buddies like to raz each other about past deals gone bad and remind each other when someone is about to lay down cash for another project that just might end up at the scrap yard. Anything that happens good or bad will only be experience under your belt.
 
You couldn't build the frame for $400. Checked the price of steel lately? Cylinder is fixable, those are the money parts.
To me it looks like a fun project. If you are going to do all the work on it.
Everything is fixable or replaceable,
Take the cylinder apart & probably just need new "O" rings. You should be able to do that.
Hydraulic hose place to make some new hoses.
Lowes & HD sell tires rims

Engine you have but never know this one may be fixable. dump some transmission fluid in there for a few days. New piston & rings isn't that hard to do.
Pump (repair/replace) & valve & new oil, ( can upgrde the pump for faster cycle time) your good to go.
Lots of parts online for log splitters,

Fun project, then it's your splitter & you know allot about spitters when you're done. Knowledge is priceless.
$400 or less :) my guess

http://www.splitez.com/log_splitter_parts.html
http://www2.northerntool.com/logging/log-splitter-accessories.htm
http://store.beilerhydraulics.com/miscellaneous/log-splitter-parts
 
Getting the gland nut out of the cylinder will be 90% of the battle. Different designs make it very easy or exceptionally difficult. Once that's apart, replacing the seals is cake. If you have a broken hose fitting, try an internal pipe wrench to extract the broken half of the fitting.
 
Gzecc,
Take a look at the cylinder and see if there are any stamp markings for working pressure or MAWP. If its in the 1000psi range its a single stage pump. See if pump has markings as well.
Most new replacement pumps are 2-stage, low range high volume to move cylinder, with internal relief to stroke pump into high pressure low volume.
An easy out will work to get the broke fitting out of the line, but you may not even waste your time as new hoses can be made with compression fittings for a few extra bucks.
Any hoses you have made will need to be 1.5x MAWP of the cylinder, don't trust what's stamped on the hoses.
Check the cylinder ram before dumping any money into it, remove the fitting closest to wedge and put some compressed air to the opposite fitting(not sure if thats an autoretracting valve body), if not available ratchet strap around wedge to foot and extend it.
Check the ram plating for scores/scratches orings won't fix leaks through these points for very long if at all.
Someone noted above that the cylinder gland nut is the main booger in repairing cylinder soft goods.
The nut usually has slots or holes on either side of the ram, there's a specially spanner wrench to remove them but one can be made from plate if you have access to welder.
 
That cylinder is definitely repairable. But make sure the ram isn't bent or rusted.....if it is, you will just end up blowing the new seal. The problem with an old, used splitter like that is people let them sit outside with the ram extended, and they get rusty and pitted, and when that happens the ram is pretty much junk. Keep us posted on your project.......
 
triptester said:
The pump is a Haldex/Barnes 2-stage.

Yep, two stage. It appears to be factory built. The factory "could" have chose to dial down the relief valve pressure, but I doubt it.

You didn't do too bad. Get the cylinder fixed - there are shops out there that can make quick work of it and may already have the parts on hand (industrial equipment shops). Strap on the new motor. Get the hose fixed. A $20 tire from wally world (or $6 inner tube) and get to splitting.

Edit: the toe plate does look a bit tall to me as well. Got a torch, or a buddy with a torch? I'd probably cut a third to half of that sucker off.

HEY - is that a vertical/horizontal machine?
 
Jags said:
triptester said:
The pump is a Haldex/Barnes 2-stage.

Yep, two stage. It appears to be factory built. The factory "could" have chose to dial down the relief valve pressure, but I doubt it.

You didn't do too bad. Get the cylinder fixed - there are shops out there that can make quick work of it and may already have the parts on hand (industrial equipment shops). Strap on the new motor. Get the hose fixed. A $20 tire from wally world (or $6 inner tube) and get to splitting.

Edit: the toe plate does look a bit tall to me as well. Got a torch, or a buddy with a torch? I'd probably cut a third to half of that sucker off.

HEY - is that a vertical/horizontal machine?
It is vertical/horizontal. The machine was used at at rental store. I think if it was weak it would have bent by now, don't you think.
Below is a pic, the steel is 1.75 thick. Thickest I've seen.
 

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gzecc said:
I think if it was weak it would have bent by now, don't you think.
Below is a pic, the steel is 1.375 thick. Thickest I've seen.

And it has a backer bar. You will probably be fine.
 
I think the manufacture is Ramsplitter.
 
I wouldn't change it unless it ever fails. It caught my eye cause you never see them that tall on that size beam usually for a reason. One day you might have a nasty narly piece that only touches the top of the foot while the wedge is exerting full force. If it survives that then good to go.
 
wkpoor said:
I wouldn't change it unless it ever fails. It caught my eye cause you never see them that tall on that size beam usually for a reason. One day you might have a nasty narly piece that only touches the top of the foot while the wedge is exerting full force. If it survives that then good to go.
This unit came from a rental company. I don't think I will ever treat it worse than a renter. If it hasn't bent in 15yrs, I doubt it will.
 
You got it ready to split yet, or are we still talking about it LOL :lol:
"COME ON MAN"
We need to know what is wrong with the ram, will it come apart?, Is the inside clean (no rust), a single or double "O" ring.
Rental outfits usually have pretty indestructible stuff,
Did you get the engine off yet?
This is a great "The Gear" topic we can all get into & feel your success when it's up & running !!! :)
 
This unit came from a rental company. I don’t think I will ever treat it worse than a renter. If it hasn’t bent in 15yrs, I doubt it will.
Hold on a minute. Yes it has been bent. Thats why that backer piece is on there. Someone straightened up the foot and baced it. Nevertheless that fix may last forever.
 
bogydave said:
You got it ready to split yet, or are we still talking about it LOL :lol:
"COME ON MAN"
We need to know what is wrong with the ram, will it come apart?, Is the inside clean (no rust), a single or double "O" ring.
Rental outfits usually have pretty indestructible stuff,
Did you get the engine off yet?
This is a great "The Gear" topic we can all get into & feel your success when it's up & running !!! :)
The ram looks good. I was able to unfreeze the engine. Changed the oil (water), spark plug, and adjusted the valves.
The pull rope mechanism is bad. I need to do a hillbilly rope pull.
I tried to start it a few times and it won't start.
I actually have a job tomorrow, so I will not get to it till Saturday. I expect to check for spark next. This is a B&S 10HP I/C 305 engine. Can anyone point me to a service manual for it?
 
gzecc said:
bogydave said:
You got it ready to split yet, or are we still talking about it LOL :lol:
"COME ON MAN"
We need to know what is wrong with the ram, will it come apart?, Is the inside clean (no rust), a single or double "O" ring.
Rental outfits usually have pretty indestructible stuff,
Did you get the engine off yet?
This is a great "The Gear" topic we can all get into & feel your success when it's up & running !!! :)
The ram looks good. I was able to unfreeze the engine. Changed the oil (water), spark plug, and adjusted the valves.
The pull rope mechanism is bad. I need to do a hillbilly rope pull.
I tried to start it a few times and it won't start.
I actually have a job tomorrow, so I will not get to it till Saturday. I expect to check for spark next. This is a B&S 10HP I/C 305 engine. Can anyone point me to a service manual for it?

Congrats on the job!!!!
The deal is sounding better all the time. ;)
"Hillbilly pull" --- Knot in the end of a rope, a few wraps & pull ?? (sometimes the rope slips & you might hit yourself :) )
Thats the way almost all small engines were before the recoil starter assembly became standard. :zip:
 
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