Just need clarification please.

[Danno77]

Just called a local dealer that i didn't even know existed until I found their listing as a dealer on jotul's website. It's just over 900 bucks for the 602. In terms of what I've been considering, that is WAYYYY more than I expected. I know name brand, quality, etc are something that everyone pushes, but in terms of cost, that is NOT reasonable (for me, I mean). I was expecting to spend something well under that. I mean I can get one of those bigger (cheaper in quality, likely, i know) stoves at Menards or Lowes for 400 bucks and heat my whole first floor. Why would I spend this much to get something that will put out about half the BTUs?

It is cute, and I'm not writing it off, just complaining. If that stove was 600 I'd seriously be considering it. Thanks for the idea!

 

[begreen]

This is the most expensive time to be looking for a stove. With the dollar's decline, imported stove prices are up since summer. However, there are some value stoves in the budget range and some turkeys too. See what you can get an Englander 13NC for at the local big box stores. Or just wait until late winter when the big stores clear out inventory to make room for garden supplies. It could save you a couple hundred.

 

[Valhalla]

Danno,

Yes, it is much like trying to a get a discount on a generator with a hurricane soon to strike. Winter has set in, so prices and discounting have been adjusted accordingly. Regardless of your final choice, my advice is to think of this for the long term and it's ROI. That means safety and quality for your home and family, the long term investment in your largest asset - your home and the functionality to provide the amount of carbon neutral heating you desire.

Research this fully, and by all means possible until you are fully knowledgeable on the subject matter. As I have previously said, choose wisely.

 

[Danno77]

still drawing plans and creating the "quote" for my wife. I'm having difficulty finding any roof flashings for my steep roof. I can find "7/12 to 12/12" or the "0/12 to 6/12." The current galvanized "thing" up there for the old furnace must have a 12/12 flashing on it and it looks stupid. It's be nice to have that chimney sticking up straight!

I've decided to go a completely different route here for this stove. I'm no longer looking for a dinky stove in this room, I'm getting a bigger stove and hope to heat the entire first level with it. I've never really thought about it, but there is a return air vent just behind where the stove would sit, perhaps I can utilize the blower on my furnace to spread that heat to the whole house?

Anyway, sources on roof-flashing for something steeper than 12/12 would be appreciated.

 

[Hogwildz]

Are you sure you need steeper than 12/12?
If you can't find it online or in shops, hit up your local sheet metal shop, and anyone worth a damn should be able to make you one. It won't be cheap though.
we used to make custom metal, flashings etc all the time at my old roofing job. But the guy has to know his stuff. Its a dying trade that is not being taught much anymore.

 

[Danno77]

Are you sure you need steeper than 12/12?

positive. I had to replace some shingles up there and thought it would be handy to make a contraption to hold the ladder. I threw the boards together to straddle the peak I put them at a 90* angle (which would equate to 45* slope on either side). when it was all said and done I hoisted it up there and it was off by 10* or so. I don't know exactly what the slope is, but do know it's steeper than 12/12.

 

[Danno77]

One question at a time, and instead of opening a new thread for each one I'll just post them all here!

Next step: Hearth Pad, I can buy one or make one.
manual for proposed stove states the following:

If the appliance is to be installed on a combustible floor or a combustible floor covering, it must be installed on a 1” thick non-combustible millboard floor protector or a durable equivalent, with a “R” factor of no less than “2.” The pad must be installed beneath the unit, extending 16” (U.S.) on the side equipped with a door, and 8” on all other sides. The pad must cover any horizontal chimney connector runs and extend 2” beyond each side.
Alternate Floor Protection:
An easy means of determining if a proposed alternate floor protector meets requirements is to follow this procedure:
1) Convert specification to R-value:
i R-value is given – no conversion is needed
ii k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in inches: R = 1/k x T
iii C-factor is given: R = 1/C
2) Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate floor protector:
i Use the correct formula given in step 1 (above) to convert values not expressed as “R.”
ii For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to determine overall R-value.
3) If the overall R-value of the system is greater than the R-value of the specified floor protector, the alternate is acceptable.

I was hoping to use a homemade pad made of durock with bricks mortared on it. I'm getting the impression my R-Value wouldn't be enough using that. Intuition tells me that should be adequate, but the numbers don't look right to me.

Another nice thing about having a brick hearth would be the thermal mass of the thing. Is that something I should even worry about?

 

[Danno77]

Kinda following this thread where the OP looks like he's installing the same stove.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/26491/

 

[Danno77]

Next question is about getting through the wall into the chimney.

This is a picture of where the stove would sit. Right in front of the wall with the mirror. right near where that yellow chair is.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/DannoSpider/Hamilton House/Formal Living/Finished/P1010020Small.jpg

This is a funny deal, maybe not all that uncommon. The chimney lies about 1-2 feet inside of that wall. The closet is not original to the room, at one time they decided to build a closet in that corner, so boxed it in. instead of having multiple corners, they boxed the chimney in too.

Then i came along and had new central air and some ductwork ran through the floor and to the upstairs and I had to build a chase around it. this is an "in progress" picture
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/DannoSpider/Hamilton House/Formal Living/projects/P1010061Small.jpg

So, I have to get through a lathe and plaster framed wall through a 1.5' void and then into a brick chimney. I'll put up a starting point and y'all tell me why it's a bad idea or against code or whatnot, lol.

Black stove pipe to the appropriate thimble on the wall that connects directly to the insulated flex liner which then goes into the chimney.

Several questions:
>Does flex liner even bend sharp enough to make this horizontal to vertical transition?
>Even if it does bend enough, is that a good practice? it saves me having some triple-walled pipe in that 1.5' little inner wall space.
>When I go through a thimble on the wall I need wall protection for 12" above the thimble? am I reading that right? "If you have a wall flue hook up, you will need wall protection at least twelve inches (12”) above the wall thimble" that was in the manual. What exactly does that mean? just a noncombustible material like sheet metal?
>When i rip the lathe an plaster off to get at the chimney would I better off redoing the wall with something other than drywall/sheetrock? Maybe cementboard of some sort?
>the closet door would swing into a position that could violate combustible distance requirements if it was left open. Does that mean I have to reverse the swing of the door?