Just purchased New Wood Burner and I have some questions

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Magus

New Member
Nov 17, 2010
65
Michigan
I took the advise of a poster and I believe that I will be pretty happy with my new purchase

I purchased the USSC APS1100B.
Now...I know it is not the top of the line but it will have to do for now.

My question is this.

I put 3 section of black pipe on it the stove and I am burning it outside (to cure it and keep the smell outside)

it is 31 degrees outside right now

The top of the stove got up to about 650 degrees F.
The flue only go up to about 250 degrees

It also back puffed a bit.

Can the flue length play a part in the flue temp? It is still missing 5 feet of pipe (black and Class A combined)
The stove calls for a minimum of 11 feet of flue.
 
Yes. Flue length plays a big part. The longer the chimney, or flue, the faster the hot smoke rises, pulling more air into the burn box. The longer you can get that puppy the better. There is a limit though. If you have a two or three storey smoke stack it could be too much. That is the draft can be so powerful you can't close your stove down. If you live at high altitudes, think rockies, then you need that tall flue to suck the air in faster because of air is less dense at altitude.

Ray
 
rayza said:
That flue temp of 250 seems right for your stove top. Back puffing? open up your air a little bit. It backpuffs when it's choked.

The flue temp says that is in the creosote zone :(
The stove top itself was about 650..

Also this is outside in 31 degree weather so that may be playing a part in it as well.

Thank You for your reply.

Should I have two gauges...one for the stove top and one for the flue...or will just one due?
 
It will be whole different burner when you get it out of the yard and connected to a proper chimney with decent draft.
 
Some of the Folks who have been burning for a long time are more adept at answering this than I am, yet what I take from it is that if your stove is in the "zone" and you are getting secondary burn, cat or non-cat, then it is consuming all the carbon that causes the creosote. One of these nights I am destined to climb up on my roof with my IR thermometer and zap the temp at the cap.

Ray
 
rayza said:
Some of the Folks who have been burning for a long time are more adept at answering this than I am, yet what I take from it is that if your stove is in the "zone" and you are getting secondary burn, cat or non-cat, then it is consuming all the carbon that causes the creosote. One of these nights I am destined to climb up on my roof with my IR thermometer and zap the temp at the cap.

Ray

His stove is out in the yard with five feet of pipe sticking in it.
 
Should you be running it that hot on a break in?
 
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