1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Jotul Cast Iron Stoves
    Woodstock Soapstone Stoves
    Hearth and Home (QuadraFire and Harman Stoves)
  1. precaud Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 20, 2006
    2,272 posts
    Sunny New Mexico
    Very interesting, Would. So that's what the infamous stainless piece looked like... thanks for posting it! You may have the only two known to currently exist :)
    #76

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!



  2. MCPO Minister of Fire

    My Kent has the same baffle bolted onto the air chamber. I stuck my finger in the end and felt insulation inside.
  3. precaud Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 20, 2006
    2,272 posts
    Sunny New Mexico
    Cool, Gio. I'm wondering if those "bolt-on's" were field retrofits, as they're different from what was described by a former user and one published paper. Those had the stainless baffle piece held in place by two stainless pieces mounted on either side in front of the baffle. Those pieces had insulation under them as well. My mods have been fashioned after that setup.
  4. MCPO Minister of Fire

    Yeah, obviously it`s either a factory mod or dealer retrofit. I think near the end of the model cycle or import cycle since it isn`t common to all models.
    I doubt very much it was available as an "option" since it appears to have a significant impact on the burn.
  5. precaud Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 20, 2006
    2,272 posts
    Sunny New Mexico
    Last season was the first complete heating season using the modified Tile Fire. I just did my annual chimney cleaning, so I thought I'd post an update in this thread, and compare it to what I used to get with the Quad 2100M.

    Creosote cleaned from the pipe was 7.9 ounces (about 1/2 a plastic grocery bag). Wood burned in it last season was 0.95, or just under a cord.

    In 2008, I burned the Quad for the whole year: http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/annual-chimney-cleaning-results.16638/#post-16638

    It also produced 1/2 a bag and 7.7 ounces, almost identical... except that was for 1.75 cords.

    So the modified Kent makes a little less than twice the creosote per cord as the Quad, 8.3 vs 4.4 oz. (The Quad is rated at 2.1gm/hr emissions...)

    Not bad for an old smoke dragon... :)
  6. lumbajac Member

    joined: Mar 15, 2008
    85 posts
    Upper Peninsula, Michigan
    I've become Interested in this King found on C.L.: http://up.craigslist.org/mat/3282727969.html What would be a fair price for this package? Some pics of the firebox and "puck" sent to me look good; no apparent warpage even though no firebrick. I missed out on an Elm stove for $200 bucks recently so don't wan to miss this if a good stove. Otherwise it's off to Menards for a $500 Vogelzang Defender, but they just seem so cheaply built! Only looking to heat my 400 sq.ft. deer camp that is poorly insulated, but still want the best quality I can swing for around $500.

    Thanks.
  7. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,457 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    It looks to be in pretty good shape. That would be a nice heater if it is as good as it looks.
  8. precaud Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 20, 2006
    2,272 posts
    Sunny New Mexico
    That's a Sherwood, radiant model. Looks like they took good care of it. A LOT of stove for 400 sq ft, I'd say! I wonder how much value they're giving to the pipe. I'm not a big fan of the air-insulated pipe. The Kents run hot in that first few feet of pipe so I'd definitely use single wall up to the ceiling connector. If you don't need the pipe, see if they'll sell without it for 350-ish.
  9. lumbajac Member

    joined: Mar 15, 2008
    85 posts
    Upper Peninsula, Michigan
    400 sq.ft of 6"x6" stacked timbers for walls - nothing else in terms of insulation so the heat pretty much pours out of the cabin. Plus, it's about as far north as you can get in the U.P. of Michigan so cold outside temps. I've got a large Vogelzang boxwood stove and it can't heat the place up in the winter unless you feed it every hour or two + I'm heating from dead cold starts only on the weekends so looking for quick heat. I'm to the point where I'd rather overheat the space so as long a burn time as possible is desired as I'd rather open a window or two as needed rather than feed the fire.

    I could use the stovepipe on a future wood-fired sauna for the camp that I plan to build this summer so it would be useful. Was thinking of offering $400 for the package since the posting is over a month old and I'd have to drive about 1 1/2 hours to get it - take it or leave it.

    Thanks.
  10. precaud Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 20, 2006
    2,272 posts
    Sunny New Mexico
    Sounds like a plan - good luck with it.

    The Sherwood certainly heats up fast, compared to anything else its size - you'll absolutely love that!
  11. lumbajac Member

    joined: Mar 15, 2008
    85 posts
    Upper Peninsula, Michigan
    Thanks! And thanks for the entire thread regarding mods - will incorporate them if I score the stove.
  12. tlc1976 New Member

    joined: Oct 7, 2012
    68 posts
    Michigan
    Thanks for the very interesting thread. Am still trying to digest it all. It might be interesting to try some mods on mine. I never really knew much about mine but I am familar with that upper chamber and how it fills up with crud. I clean it by a piece of flat bar I bent that will get in there from the chimney area and I can pull the material out for the most part.

    I always liked the looks of the Tile Fire. At times I have thought about removing the screen from the heat shields of the Sherwood and adding bars and ceramic tiles to turn it mostly into a Tile Fire.
  13. precaud Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 20, 2006
    2,272 posts
    Sunny New Mexico
    tic, I like your idea about the bar shaped for the cleanout. Post a pic of yours when you have a chance.

    Don't know what you have, but your Sherwood will do better than a Tile Fire in a big, open room with high ceilings.
  14. tlc1976 New Member

    joined: Oct 7, 2012
    68 posts
    Michigan
    My stove was put in for the easiest installation and shortest pipe. It is in probably the worst location for heating the house. The upstairs only goes halfway, the rest is a cathedral ceiling. Way in the back downstairs are the bedrooms. The stove is in the far corner of the living room, which is a little low ceiling addition totally opposite the bedrooms. There is a shelf behind the stove pipe and I have to keep a fan on HI pushing the heat out or the corner will overheat and the rest of the downstairs will stay cold. Even with that and an additional fan, it is tough to get the heat to the back bedrooms. But if it was in the wide open area, it would require 20+ feet of pipe which would probably need side supports and would require a scaffold to replace. Right now it is easy because I just slide the stove to the side and remove the house pipe, then run my brush up to clean the rest of it.

    I only was thinking of adding the tiles to make it look like a Tile Fire. I haven't processed the operating differences of them yet.

    I'll try to get a pic but it's really nothing fancy. Just a piece of 1/8 x 5/8 flat bar that we often have laying around at work. It is stiff enough to work but flexible enough to get in there. I have wanted to do a better job. I have actually thought of using an air nozzle to blow the crap out from the front after loosening it with the bar. Or making a small flexible attachment so the shop vac can get in there.
  15. Deuceman927 New Member

    joined: Jan 3, 2013
    3 posts
    I realize this thread hasn't been touched in a few months. I'm a rank beginner and I just purchased a house with 2 wood stoves and a fireplace. One of the stoves is the Kent Sherwood. I cleaned it up and got it lit (with some help from an eagle scout friend of mine). It started up ok, but I found with the door closed, there seems to be some smoke leakage from the front where the air intake is. In checking the chimney, there is some white smoke coming out. Have any of you had problems like this? The cover for the front air intake is loose and can be removed quite easily. Not sure if there is some adjustment I should make, etc. Any of your input is greatly appreciated.
  16. tlc1976 New Member

    joined: Oct 7, 2012
    68 posts
    Michigan
    #1 make sure the chimney is clean if you haven't done so already.

    If the inside and outside temps are similar you might have a tough time getting an updraft started and the smoke will come out the front. It doesn't happen to me too much but it does happen. In which case I try to get some heat going to create an updraft as fast as possible with newspaper, cardboard, etc. Also if the wind is blowing hard enough in the right direction and the fire is not going strong I will get a puff of smoke too. Not much you can do besides burn hotter (which is a better idea anyway whenever you can because it burns a lot cleaner). Whenever possible, I find it much better to burn a small fire wide open rather than choke down a big fire.

    Yes the little cover over the air intake is just a loose slip fit. No biggie.
  17. tagboy New Member

    joined: Mar 26, 2013
    2 posts
    Halfmoon Bay BC Canada
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    This old thread and pictures were a great help to me with my Kent Tile Stove. As mentioned in these threads, my damper rod was binding with a hot stove. In my case the plate does appear to be warped. The puck is able to float over the warp but not the puck pin. With the damper closed I was able to prop the puck up off the end of the pin (rod) and from inside the stove, grind the pin slightly shorter. This has solved the binding rod problem (so far).

Share This Page