1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Brian_YZ

    Brian_YZ New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Messages:
    8
    Loc:
    NE Kansas
    Picked up a 5510 the other day after much thought and debate, etc....
    Been reading this forum gathering information for the last few months to help me pick out the right stove. But the more you learn, the more questions seem to arise.

    Real quick, live in a pole barn type home (1300 sq ft on a slab) with a very open floor plan that is about three years old. Very well insulated, walls are 9 inches thick, with about 2 ft of insulation in the attic. The house is 100% electric and has a heat pump, with a backup furnace in the attic. If the outside temp drops to around 35 degrees, have to switch to the backup furnace (which gets expensive). Before I bought this home I was planning to build a similar home and was considering a pellet stove as a secondary source of heat. With this new home, I'm in a fairly rural part of the county, and I'm being told when power goes out, it usually is out for a few days if it is a major outage. So I remembered the research on the pellet stoves and decided it would be a good idea to pick one up to help take the edge off on those cold days, plus I'd be able to use it if power goes out (using a ups and generator.... but that is down the road). Considered the St Croix, Avalon, Breckwell, etc... but all the stoves seemed to have problems, but the 5510 kept coming up as a good option given my situation, and was priced right.

    anyways, going to hook it up here in the next few days and I have a couple questions I need answered or some further clarification.

    1. Bought the Simpson pellet stove vent kit at TSC at the same time as the stove. Comes with elbows, thimble, clean-out, straight pieces, etc. The manual says to use NO MORE than 180 degrees of elbows. I'm very limited on where I can put the stove, so I am putting it in a corner. I'm going to come off of the stove with the short appliance adapter, then a 45 degree elbow, then 2 ft. horizontally through the wall thimble, into the clean-out (90 degree to switch to vertical), 4 ft of straight, 90 degree elbow to hook up the vent hood.
    Problem is, with the required clean-out and elbow for the vent, I'm at that 180 degree limit. Will the extra 45 degrees hurt the flow enough to reduce the performance of the stove? and do I need to hook up the air intake to draw outside air?

    2. The pellet pipe manual states there should be 3 screws per joint. Looking at the pipe the way it twists and locks together, I would think using a screw that will penetrate both walls of the pipe could lead to more problems than relying on the built-in locking mechanism of the pipe itself. Planned on just using RTV on all of the joints and calling it good, but what are you guys doing?

    3. The connection from the 3 inch aluminum exhaust blower assembly to the first piece of exhaust pipe.... I don't see a good way to "attach" that pipe to the stove. It looks like a hose clamp would just crush the first layer of the pellet pipe, without applying any real clamping force. Are you supposed to drill and install three screws into the blower housing, or just rely on the weight of the stove and just shove it on there and hope it doesn't come loose?
    Both manuals for the stove and pipe are very vague.

    4. And about the ash doors being sealed to improve the stove (main reason I chose this stove)... I'm unclear if they are being sealed shut, or just adding RTV around the track to "tighten" them up. A little clarification would help me when I get ready to hook the stove up.

    5. I've seen references to hooking up a wall thermostat to control the pellet stove, but nothing in the manual. I'm assuming somewhere behind a panel somewhere there is a hook up for one. Has anyone added one and is it as simple as one would think?

    Hopefully it works out as planned and I won't have to call the fire department upon start up. Living in a rural area I'm sure the response time is long :)

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. imacman

    imacman Guest

    1. The EVL of your pipe comes out to 16.5 .......that's a little high, but not too bad. I think you'll be OK.

    2. silicone the joints, twist together, and I think you'll be OK. Most of the leaks will be in the appliance adapter or the cleanout T, if any. Since most of your pipe is outdoors, just keep an eye on the appliance adapter. (you DO have CO detectors installed in all levels, and especially near bedrooms, right?).

    3. The appliance adapter should just slide onto the exhaust blower outlet pipe. Smear Hi temp silicone onto the outside of the exhaust pipe, slide the appliance adapter on til it stops, and then drill & install 3 sheet metal screws through that into the exhaust pipe. (I put a pic of mine below)

    4. I have no idea.

    5. It took me a while, but I finally saw ONE reference to a thermostat in your manual: "When the heater is in the manual mode, the optional thermostat will not properly control the unit." So, somewhere on your control board, there must be 2 screw terminals to attach a thermostat and run in the "auto" setting. Otherwise, you have to switch the stove to "manual".

    Hope this helps.

    Attached Files:

    Oliver6 likes this.
  3. urkiddin

    urkiddin Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Messages:
    207
    Loc:
    Western Ma. near Vt border
    what i did to seal the ash doors was to put a bead of rtv all around the edge of the slide.i did this with the ash slides shut so i guess they are being sealed shut.then i just smoothed it out with my finger to like you would if you were caulking a shower to force a little into the edges and make it look a little neater.i used Rutland vent seal.it's black and remains soft so it's easy to remove if you need to.just remember not to seal the back ash doors(the vertical ones).the only thing about sealing them is the ash drawer is un-useable.it's not a big deal for me though as i just use a vac after it cools down.
    Oliver6 likes this.
  4. kmeckes

    kmeckes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    4
    Loc:
    Pa
    Hello Guys,
    Great to see a forum on the 5510.....Been using the info, and really enjoying reading the posts and suggestions....Thanks
    I have a question though, has anyone attempted to put a speed controller (rheostat) inline with the room fan......Was thinking about putting an inline rheostat with the room fan, mounting it on the side of the stove, just so I could slightly decrease the fan speed when we are in the room and do not want all the noise.....Do you think it would cause the heat exchanger to fail????
    Curious what you guys think,
  5. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    Been a while since I've been on here. The snow is flying and I'm trying to get some "seat time" in while I can. :)

    If it were me,I wouldn't.
    You would be better off just manually adjusting the fan.
    Just doesnt seem like the extra work of wiring it in is worth it.

    Chris
  6. scooby4ever

    scooby4ever New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    2
    Loc:
    sthrn NH
    I've had my 5510 since Nov 09..I'm now experiencing a metal scraping sound, intermittently while it's running.
    It does this on and off at no particular time...and not just when the auger is turning.
    any ideas...I haven't changed pellets, and I clean it religiously every Sunday. I've even gone to letting the hopper empty out completely, and sticking the vac hose into the auger space, to suck out all the possible dust that collects in there...with no better results. I called the customer service line and they were no help at all...
    help please
    Thanks, Randy
  7. kmeckes

    kmeckes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    4
    Loc:
    Pa
    I had a metal scraping sound in my 5510 intermitently as well......The room fan blower has a "finger guard" which prevents you from sticking your fingers into the fan assembly....Well the tolerance is so tight, that sometimes the finger guard scrapes on the fan...Try to determine if it may be the room fan, the room fan turns on after the unit comes up to operating temperature, that is when I heard the scraping noise.............If it is, you can reomove the room fan, pretty easy, and if it is the problem you can remove the finger guard and bend it slightly so it does not rub......You can also request a replacement blower from US Stoves, that is what I did....Post what you figure out.....
  8. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    Yup could very well be the room fan.
    When do you hear the noise? At startup when it's still fairly quiet or when it's running?
    The room rans in these things are pretty loud to begin with but it sounds like the cage may be rubbing on the guard.
    Actually just replaced the fan in ours. It was making an obnoxious howling sound on the low speeds and finally had
    the scraping noise. 1 call to US Stoves and had the new fan in 4 days. Took about 15 mins. to get it out and back in.
    Take note of the wire colors as the fan doesn't match the wires from the board.

    Chris
  9. jvbowers

    jvbowers New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
    Messages:
    6
    Loc:
    Michigan
    I purchased the King Pellet about a week ago and I am having issues. Hopefully someone on here can help.I have read this thread completely and have already sealed the ash pan doors as well as adj. the feed rates.

    The problem I am having is there seems to be alot of soot on the window.When I wake up in the morning the window is almost completely black. Also there are alot of unburned pellets in the burn chamber, not in the burn pot but everywhere else..Any help would be apreciated.

    Thanks
    Jason
  10. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    As for the black glass,this will happen more if you run the stove on the lower heat settings. Just how it is. I also get unburnt pellets in the burn chamber and haven't found a way to fix it yet. Spent many hours starring at the stove trying to figure out how to stop it. May just have to live with it.
    Hope this helps a little.

    Chris
  11. jvbowers

    jvbowers New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
    Messages:
    6
    Loc:
    Michigan
    Thanks for the info Chris.

    J
  12. urkiddin

    urkiddin Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Messages:
    207
    Loc:
    Western Ma. near Vt border
    some times i think the unburnt pellet problem is due to the pellets.when i was burning Buyous(sp?) i had a lot of them too.with the Ligs it doesn't seem too bad now.i still get a few but nothing like before.
  13. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    I've noticed it with every brand I have burned. The pellets come out of the feed chute and don't always make it in the pot.
    They miss and just bounce off the edge Maybe just a design problem. Something I may look into when the heating season is over.
    If I have to get out the mig welder and a small piece of steel to block just a little of the opening then I will.
    Don't really like to waste pellets if I don't have to.

    On a side note. We just picked up a ton of Barefoots and all I can say is HOLY CRAP!!!
    I actually had to turn the feed rate down to 3.75 on the high side and down to 1.25 on the low side and still get the same heat as
    I did with the Ligs. And these are so much cleaner. Looks like I'll have to stock up on them for next year.

    Chris
    Oliver6 likes this.
  14. urkiddin

    urkiddin Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Messages:
    207
    Loc:
    Western Ma. near Vt border
    I had thought about welding some flat stock to the front and sides of the burnpot to increase the height.I might still do it.I'm thinking by increasing it by maybe 1"-1 1/2" would stop that.i haven't aseen any Barefoots around here but i've heard they a really good.Guess you have to go by whats available.
  15. jvbowers

    jvbowers New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
    Messages:
    6
    Loc:
    Michigan
    I love all of the info on this thread....After adjusting the rate and the draft a little I have gotten rid of the soot buildup on the glass, it appears to be burning alot cleaner. Also my unburnt pellet issue has stopped. i am not sure what I did but I just cleaned the ashes out and I have zero unburnt pellets.I am burning Propellet premium pellets and seem to get alot of heat from them. I would like to check around and try a few different pellets.Where did you purchase Barefoot pellets from, and what are you guys paying for a ton?

    Thanks
    J
  16. jvbowers

    jvbowers New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
    Messages:
    6
    Loc:
    Michigan
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here are a couple pics of the stove.

    J
  17. smileyme

    smileyme New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2010
    Messages:
    1
    Loc:
    SW NH
    New here, but have your answer.

    Remove the side panel. On the control board, there are 2 spade connectors with a jumper block between them. In front of them is labeled "stat" or maybe "tstat". Remove the jumper. Connect your thermostat wires to the spade connectors. Replace the side panel. Done.

    This is a great forum; has solved many issues for me on the 5510 I just bought from Tractor Supply for $999.00

    Rick :)
  18. urkiddin

    urkiddin Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Messages:
    207
    Loc:
    Western Ma. near Vt border
    Just an update on Rutland direct vent sealent.the tube says it remains soft for easy removal for inspection.I kinked the hell out of the vent trying to get it apart for cleaning.I'll have to get new vent pipe now.The stuff is like cement when it cures.Guess i'll have to dig out the sawsall this spring.
  19. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    I got the pellets at JJ Feeds in Lafayette, just south of Syracuse NY. Got them at 269 a ton and since I'm only about 3 miles from them...no delivery $$$. Burn real nice and hot, not much ash either.

    Chris
  20. jvbowers

    jvbowers New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
    Messages:
    6
    Loc:
    Michigan
    I bought a ton of the Propellets for $220 at the local mill no delivery fee as i loaded them in the back of the old ford.There doesnt seem to be alot of different pellet choices around me.Menards has there brand Oakies i believe but thats about it.

    J
  21. Brian_YZ

    Brian_YZ New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Messages:
    8
    Loc:
    NE Kansas
    Thanks for the info.

    One last question, just getting around to getting it installed and vented. I ran the stove through the initial test that the factory does and it passed. Last night I did a "dry run" as described in the manual (no pellets loaded). The fan came on, auger turned, igniter came on as described. The manual states after about 20 minutes the stove will turn itself off as a safety precaution. However, after about an hour the stove never shut down. It continued to try to feed pellets, but the igniter only came on the first couple of minutes. I'm a little hesitant to fire the thing up and trust that it will shut down in the future if there is a problem and I'm not home.
    Just curious if others had the same issue? I guess I'll just add a couple pounds of pellets and see if it shuts down when it runs out.
  22. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    Mine was the same way. Just kept running, finally turned it off myself.
    I can tell you that ours has run out once and it did turn itself off and showed an error on the panel.

    Chris
  23. urkiddin

    urkiddin Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Messages:
    207
    Loc:
    Western Ma. near Vt border
    When you get it going you can open the hopper door and keep it open.It should stop feeding pellets and go out after the pellets in the burn pot are burnt up.Just a quicker way to test it if you don't want to hang around and wait for the hopper to empty.Mine ran out once too and it shut down like it's suppose to.
  24. scooby4ever

    scooby4ever New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    2
    Loc:
    sthrn NH
    OK...I just replaced the igniter after running the stove since Nov 09..it looked just like the pic posted earlier in this forum..is this something that's going to become an every year thing?

    Also, I posted earlier about a scraping sound while the stove runs...after pulling all panels off the stove while it runs, I can't find anything....and it now appears it's not so much of a scraping sound, as a howling, or vibration type noise..???
    Does anyone else have this problem? and how did you remedy it?

    I've also had the door gasket on the hinge side fail.. I'll be replacing that during the next clean out.

    The door glass seems to stay cleaner, a little longer, if I run the stove on #2....and would be better the higher you run it, however on #2 it burns us out of the livingroom..hahahah...been pretty mild here in the NorthEast this winter...
    the good thing is I've only burned thru 1-1/2 tons of pellets so far...
  25. ke5hde

    ke5hde Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Messages:
    44
    Loc:
    central NY
    The howling/whining sound is probably the room fan. Call US Stove and get a new one. Same problem we had. The noise was so bad that even the dogs would hide from it!!!
    Not really sure how long the ignitor will last, replaced ours too as you saw from the pics.
    Wow only 1 1/2 tons, not bad. We're on our 3rd ton now up here in central NY.

    Chris
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page