KT302 Blaze King New guy

[greythorn3]

you guys think this is a good deal????

8" metalbestos double stainless "B" - $400


Type HT,36" lengths.7 sticks for 21' & cap. first 400$ takes it all, no partial sales plz.

 

[Gooserider]

you guys think this is a good deal????

8" metalbestos double stainless "B" - $400


Type HT,36" lengths.7 sticks for 21' & cap. first 400$ takes it all, no partial sales plz.

Do you have a link to a catalog reference or such? If it is a CLASS A, hi-temp chimney that is rated for use w/ wood stoves, that sounds like a reasonable deal, though it may be a bit much length for what you've been describing about your house. You would also still need the ceiling and roof kits for it, but it would still be a decent start from what I've heard on prices for the stuff - the kits aren't that expensive. Metalbestos is a good brand on everything of theirs I've looked at, I'm just not familiar with their stuff off the top of my head.

Gooserider

 

[greythorn3]

well its sold now anyhow... i just want to be able to get the chimeny usable for around 500$ i hope

 

[greythorn3]

i noticed when i looked in my blaze king while i was repainting it that there are metal pieces on the left and right that look like it keeps the logs from touching the walls of the stove.. they are all bent up like someone was hitting them with logs or somthing,, do you thik i should straighten them out? im going to look at some stove pipe this weekend down town. they want 180$ for 4' of 8" double was SS duralock or somthing.. i will probably need 3 4' pieces and all the crap to get it thru the roof..

Ray

 

[greythorn3]

help please.. i know you guys are busy this time of year with dummys like me..

Thanks

Ray

 

[Todd]

I bet those metal pieces are what holds the firebricks up? Maybe someone took them out to make a larger firebox?

 

[thavg]

Hey Ray I just picked up the same stove that you have and it sounds like I am in the same situation. I have missing ceramic on the center piece and am in the process of cleaning it and painting. Got a couple firebrick that need to be replaced and a small crack in the back part of my firebox to be welded up. I am in the process of of doing that and trying to find chimney and get my tile laid for where the stove will be going. Anyways just wanted to say hey since we have the same equipment maybe we can share some info.

 

[greythorn3]

these blaze kings are supposed to be the king of the crops around here in Alaska.. i hope we can share info and both get ours installed before the snow strikes! heheheh they didnt take the steel out, it is just bent up, heres some pics of the new paint and the inside bent stuff.. i could cut them out and straighten them and weld them back in.. but i dont know if its really that important, thats why im asking you experts. I still need to figure a location and do the wall to get it close clearance so its not in the middle of the room.. lots of factors. 18" of clearance is puts the stove 4 feet into the room from the wall.

Thank You guys again

Ray

 

[Gooserider]

Don't know about those side plates, they might just be there to help keep direct heat and flames off the exterior of the stove, in which case they might not hurt much to leave them the way they are. I would definitely want to replace those busted up firebricks in the back.

Have you tried looking on BK's website, or talking to their tech support folks?

Gooserider

 

[greythorn3]

Don't know about those side plates, they might just be there to help keep direct heat and flames off the exterior of the stove, in which case they might not hurt much to leave them the way they are. I would definitely want to replace those busted up firebricks in the back.

Have you tried looking on BK's website, or talking to their tech support folks?

Gooserider

Fire bricks are gonna get replaced i just need to burn it a good time in my yard so it dont stink the house up with the paint on it, then im gonna vacuum it out and pull the broken bricks, then haul it in to the house and install new bricks.. ya those metals just look like some kinda heat shield. I havent called BK they will probably just try to get me to buy a new stove, since this one is from the 70's

Ray

 

[Gooserider]

Don't know about those side plates, they might just be there to help keep direct heat and flames off the exterior of the stove, in which case they might not hurt much to leave them the way they are. I would definitely want to replace those busted up firebricks in the back.

Have you tried looking on BK's website, or talking to their tech support folks?

Gooserider

Fire bricks are gonna get replaced i just need to burn it a good time in my yard so it dont stink the house up with the paint on it, then im gonna vacuum it out and pull the broken bricks, then haul it in to the house and install new bricks.. ya those metals just look like some kinda heat shield. I havent called BK they will probably just try to get me to buy a new stove, since this one is from the 70's

Ray

Yes, they probably will try to hustle you for a new stove, but my experience and what I've seen others report has been that most of the stove co's are usually pretty good about supporting their older products if the company is still around and has any info available on them - not always the case when a company has changed hands multiple times, but far as I know that isn't an issue w/ BK.

Gooserider

 

[greythorn3]

do you think i could put a 1/8" plate of steel against a wall with 1" ceramic spacers to get tighter rear clearances? my stove now says i need 19" to combustable wall on the rear.

 

[tutu_sue]

I don't know if you found the manual online, but here is a link to the manual page that stove is listed on: http://www.blazeking.com/manuals.html

 

[Gooserider]

do you think i could put a 1/8" plate of steel against a wall with 1" ceramic spacers to get tighter rear clearances? my stove now says i need 19" to combustable wall on the rear.

That is a fairly standard clearance reduction technique, so it should work, but you really ought to see the manual to be sure the stove is listed in that configuration, or if you have to get past a code guy, ask his opinion. The manual would give exact specs as to how much reduction you'd get, the size of the clearance reduction panel, etc.

BTW, you don't have to use steel, which is good, as plates that size would be expensive and get pretty hefty - you could use Durock or other non-combustible cement board and spacers instead. Likewise the spacers don't have to be ceramic, they just have to be non combustible. I've seen folks use peices of pipe with a washer on each side for instance... Mostly it is a question of what is least expensive / most convenient.

If you do a search on "clearance reduction" you will probably find a lot of good info on various materials and techniques that people have used.

Gooserider

 

[greythorn3]

how is installing the wood stove pipe through the roof are the Cathedral Ceiling Support Boxes the best way to go or is there a better way? im nervous about cutting a hole in the roof, but i want the pipe straight so it drafts best.. if you decide to move the chimeny later is it pretty easy to patch the hole in the roof so water dont get in? are the Cathedral Ceiling Support Boxes hard to get sealed to prevent leaks?

Ray

 

[Gooserider]

how is installing the wood stove pipe through the roof are the Cathedral Ceiling Support Boxes the best way to go or is there a better way? im nervous about cutting a hole in the roof, but i want the pipe straight so it drafts best.. if you decide to move the chimeny later is it pretty easy to patch the hole in the roof so water dont get in? are the Cathedral Ceiling Support Boxes hard to get sealed to prevent leaks?

Ray

No direct personal experience, but my understanding is you have to have a support box somewhere along the line, and if you have a cathedral ceiling, there aren't any other alternatives that I know of... Patching the roof would probably not be easy, but that is kind of the nature of having a hole that size - you would need to fix the roof decking and then redo the shingles over the area - I don't know of anything that the ceiling box would do to make the job harder, but patching a hole that size isn't going to be a real easy thing no matter what made it. As far as installation goes, from what I understand it somewhat depends on the condition of the existing shingles and such (old brittle shingles are harder to work on in general) but it is mostly a question of reading and following the manufacturer instructions for flashing, getting the upper edge under the shingles and otherwise doing the job the way it should be done.

Gooserider

 

[greythorn3]

going to the wood stove place today to question them and get some quotes for materials.. they open in a few hours so im anxiously waiting! hehehe well i want to put the stove in one location and then move it to infront of the old firplace after i take that out and redo it, thats why i was askign about patching the roof if i move it later.

Thanks

Ray

 

[greythorn3]

well looks like everything is going to cost me 1253.44$ man this stuff costs allot. and the 8" isnt even stainless on outside, its galvanized on ouitside and stianless on inside, name brand is dura-vent. heres a break down of parts... hey he also was suggesting i get a quadfire insert 2700i to replace my fireplace($1500 for stove and standard door), cause i was telling him i wanted to do that next year.. are the quadfire 2700is anygood?

heres what i get for 1253.44$

#8879 8dvl adapter w dampner $78.48
#8848 8dlv 48" double wall pipe $143.08
#8847 8dvl 68" telescoping pipe $199.08
#8874 8dvl close clear adapter $24.40
#9655 8dt finishing collar $33.64
#9663 8dt roof support adj. $69.60
#9648a 8dt trim collar 0-3/12 $46.95
#9607ga 8dt 48" insulated pipe $182.10 @ 2
#9649 8dt flashing 0-6/12 $75.94
#9559 8dt 7/8" storm collar $12.19
#9684 8dt chimney cap $119.48
#9665 8dt ext. roof bracket $86.40

have not purchased anything yet still waiting to get the money togeather. what you guys think? is it over priced?

Thanks

Ray

 

[Todd]

I think you should reevaluate what you want to do and think long term. Don't pussyfoot around and install a stove where it will heat your whole house and be done with it. It will pay for itself eventually.

 

[greythorn3]

anyone on here get me a deal on shipping, i noticed the prices online are 10-20$ CHEAPER each piece! but the shipping calculators are killing me..

 

[greythorn3]

what you guys thinking of the wuadra-fire 2700i insert? we are considering this to insert into our prefab fireplace.

 

[Todd]

Too small, look for a bigger firebox.

 

[greythorn3]

ive read people saying 3 or 4 hours out of a load.. ya small firebox but it will be supplemt heat source to our natural gas, and if we ever lose nat gas for any reason we could stay allot warmer then with out fireplace.. im thinking this insert might be the right way to go if i put it upstairs then later install the blaze king downstairs. theres a guy sellign the quadra-fire with all the stanless chimeny and all for 1000k here i might go pick it up and give it a try that would be 352 bucks cheaper then just the pipe for my blazeking.

Ray

 

[Gooserider]

Without sitting down with a catalog, looks like a reasonable list on the parts, and Duravent is a good brand of pipe... Pricing I don't know about, but would suspect that online is cheaper, however AK is always going to be a problem for shipping - your local guy had to pay shipping too, one reason he is higher than the net...

Assuming wood supply isn't a problem, you basically want to size the firebox based on the amount of space you are trying to heat. With an insert you are limited by the size of the fireplace you are stuffing it into, while a stove doesn't have that limit... Quad as a brand has a pretty good reputation, but you have to decide whether or not it will make enough heat for your needs - it is undersized you won't be happy, and will probably end up over-firing in an effort to get more heat / longer burn times.

As I understand it, you are mostly burning softwoods in AK, which makes the situation a bit worse, as you will need a bigger firebox to get the same kind of heat and burn times we get in New England w/ hardwoods. I think this is one reason why BK's are so popular in the northern areas, and less so further south - you guys have tougher heat loads, and need bigger fireboxes because of burning softwoods, and we don't have as much need for the big firebox of most BK models in this area and further south...

While I'd encourage you to get an EPA grade stove instead of the smoke dragon BK model you have now, I think you also need to look hard at the size of the area you want to heat, and the burn times you want, and get something with an appropriate size firebox.

Gooserider

 

[greythorn3]

my wife is trying to steer me away from the free standing wood stove since we had a kid earlier this year, shes afraid of the kid getting burned on it.. and thinks the insert would be safer with the baby.. i know the blaze king would heat us outa here but not sure about the claimed 1500 sq ft of the quadrafire insert.. im not sure what way to go now.. the insert would be nice for the fact i wont have to cut hole inthe roof as it would be inserted into prefab fireplace and the pipe would go straight up the exterior chase.


Ray