Let's Talk 2 Cycle Mixes

[MarkinNC]

It's a little slow lately so I thought I would put out a couple of lingering questions I had. I had been using the Opti-2 2 cycle premix in all my 2 cycle equipment and I have been really happy with it. The guys at the local Stihl dealership told me they see a lot of sludge in the crank cases of saws running this. Whether or not this causes the case to be split anyway is a different question altogether.

I bought a bunch of Stihl HP Ultra since it is the only fully synthetic mix I know of. I see Stihl will double your warranty (non-commercial) if you use it. I don't care for the way it smells but oh well.

When I bought my 346xp a few months ago they fueled it with the Husqvarna semi synthetic. All 3 seem fine to me.

I am not a brand loyal person most of the time. I do run a lot of synthetics though. Anybody have any input into what they are running and why?

 

[DexterDay]

It's a little slow lately so I thought I would put out a couple of lingering questions I had. I had been using the Opti-2 2 cycle premix in all my 2 cycle equipment and I have been really happy with it. The guys at the local Stihl dealership told me they see a lot of sludge in the crank cases of saws running this. Whether or not this causes the case to be split anyway is a different question altogether.

I bought a bunch of Stihl HP Ultra since it is the only fully synthetic mix I know of. I see Stihl will double your warranty (non-commercial) if you use it. I don't care for the way it smells but oh well.

When I bought my 346xp a few months ago they fueled it with the Husqvarna semi synthetic. All 3 seem fine to me.

I am not a brand loyal person most of the time. I do run a lot of synthetics though. Anybody have any input into what they are running and why?

All of the above. I run the Husqvarna oil, in the saws that still have warranty and Stihl oil in everything else (Weedwackers, Hedge trimmers, etc). Been talk on here about the Amsoil 100:1 ratio mix. I am to afraid to try it. Your saw would run like a Thouroghbred on Steriods. Dont know if I would push it. 50:1 is just fine. Both oils are good. Some say an oil is an oil. They may be right. But I try to run a synthetic in everything I own. All my Cars, Trucks and equipment (ATV's, Roto-tillers, Mowers) have Royal Purple in them.

 

[amateur cutter]

+ 1 on a good quality synthetic, I run Stihl ultra cause that's what my dealer sells. I too stick with 50:1, or even 40:1 depending on weather & cutting conditions. A C

 

[jensent]

We have been using Opti-2 for about 15 years. No problems. The same product is available at the local farrm store rebadged as Oregon "Only one." Two stroke oil and stabilizer in one packet. Recommended by both our Stihl and Dolmar dealers.
Tom

 

[HittinSteel]

I run woodland pro synthetic from baileys (believe it is rebranded echo powerblend). Used to run stihl ultra and Husky XP, but realized there wasn't actually gold flakes in them to justify the price.

 

[davmor]

I use to use Opti-2 no problems. Switched over to Amsoil. Because I liked the way my snowmobiles ran with Amsoil. I have run the Amsoil 100 to 1 with no problems, ran it 50 to 1 don't seem to make much of a difference.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

It's a little slow lately so I thought I would put out a couple of lingering questions I had. I had been using the Opti-2 2 cycle premix in all my 2 cycle equipment and I have been really happy with it. The guys at the local Stihl dealership told me they see a lot of sludge in the crank cases of saws running this. Whether or not this causes the case to be split anyway is a different question altogether.

I bought a bunch of Stihl HP Ultra since it is the only fully synthetic mix I know of. I see Stihl will double your warranty (non-commercial) if you use it. I don't care for the way it smells but oh well.

When I bought my 346xp a few months ago they fueled it with the Husqvarna semi synthetic. All 3 seem fine to me.

I am not a brand loyal person most of the time. I do run a lot of synthetics though. Anybody have any input into what they are running and why?

I've been running Royal Purple TCW-3 - which is a full synthetic - for the last couple years. I'm doing this mostly because I found it on sale and bought a bunch of it 5 or 6 years ago.

Air cooled 2 stroke engines are not that picky, and, I doubt anyone on this board has ever seen an oil-related failure in a chainsaw.

 

[CTYank]

Air cooled 2 stroke engines are not that picky, and, I doubt anyone on this board has ever seen an oil-related failure in a chainsaw.

Once, our head-case boss told an idiot kid to take a Homie and cut a large bush. Didn't tell him the chain wouldn't work for plowing, or where the container of MIX was.
Straight-gassing will get 'em every time- totally trashed p&c. (Our standard mix was Echo 50:1.)

Saw mfgs tell all sorts of stories about mix ratios to use:
ratio with their oil, ratio with all other oils (half as much as with theirs, e.g. 25:1 vice 50:1),
16:1 regardless which oil,
ratio spec'd on oil container,
50:1 for BIA spec TCW oil.

In spirit of K.I.S.S. here, I've used nothing but 50:1 with "brand-name" synthetic oil labeled as suitable for 50:1, for 30+ yrs. No failures, engine innards look great. Extreme little smoke. As experts have stated, it's the OIL that determines the ratio, not the engine. Keeping port & muffler clean is a big +.

Most all quality oils have fuel-stabilizer, so no need of Sea-Foam or such. Just keep fuel in sealed container, in as cool & dry a place as possible.

 

[Battenkiller]

Been talk on here about the Amsoil 100:1 ratio mix. I am to afraid to try it.

I used to run 50:1 Amsoil Dominator mixed at 40:1, but switched to the 100:1 Amsoil Saber mixed at 50:1. I don't have the guts to run it at 100:1 either, but I know people who run it at 80:1 (they are braver souls) with no problem.

This weekend I tried running a saw using straight bar oil just for giggles, but for some strange reason the saw only ran for about 5 seconds. I also tried using 2-stoke mix as bar oil, but the saw quit before I could see how that worked. :red:

At least I learned how to take apart the primer pump on my 339 and flush the tank and fuel line out. I finally got it started, but the saw still smoked like a mother for quite a while. :shut:

 

[Adios Pantalones]

This weekend I tried running a saw using straight bar oil just for giggles, but for some strange reason the saw only ran for about 5 seconds. I also tried using 2-stoke mix as bar oil, but the saw quit before I could see how that worked. :red

How many here will admit the same- we've all done it. I don't think I ever pulled the rope, thankfully- but had poured gas in the bar oil more times than I can count.

I've used standard Stihl 50:1 (?) mix since I had the saw (9yrs) and have never used stabilizer- it's always been fine, but lately I've been thinking about putting stabilizer in my 5 gal jugs when I fill them. A Stihl will really take some abuse.

 

[smokinj]

This weekend I tried running a saw using straight bar oil just for giggles, but for some strange reason the saw only ran for about 5 seconds. I also tried using 2-stoke mix as bar oil, but the saw quit before I could see how that worked. :red

How many here will admit the same- we've all done it. I don't think I ever pulled the rope, thankfully- but had poured gas in the bar oil more times than I can count.

I've used standard Stihl 50:1 (?) mix since I had the saw (9yrs) and have never used stabilizer- it's always been fine, but lately I've been thinking about putting stabilizer in my 5 gal jugs when I fill them. A Stihl will really take some abuse.

I have not done this one! ran the chain backwards a few times....But the mix gas is a different color and way to much to lose if I stright gas one!

 

[firefighterjake]

This weekend I tried running a saw using straight bar oil just for giggles, but for some strange reason the saw only ran for about 5 seconds. I also tried using 2-stoke mix as bar oil, but the saw quit before I could see how that worked. :red

How many here will admit the same- we've all done it. I don't think I ever pulled the rope, thankfully- but had poured gas in the bar oil more times than I can count.

I've used standard Stihl 50:1 (?) mix since I had the saw (9yrs) and have never used stabilizer- it's always been fine, but lately I've been thinking about putting stabilizer in my 5 gal jugs when I fill them. A Stihl will really take some abuse.

Hmmm . . . did the oil in the gas tank or maybe it was the other way around once . . . and fortunately I had the local Husqvarna guy working alongside of me (we were clearing a trail for the snowmobile club) so he fixed everything for me and I've had no issues.

As for the mix . . . I too have never used stabilizer in the chainsaw fuel . . . then again I tend to use it up pretty quickly. No issues thus far.

 

[Thistle]

This weekend I tried running a saw using straight bar oil just for giggles, but for some strange reason the saw only ran for about 5 seconds. I also tried using 2-stoke mix as bar oil, but the saw quit before I could see how that worked. :red

How many here will admit the same- we've all done it. I don't think I ever pulled the rope, thankfully- but had poured gas in the bar oil more times than I can count.

I've used standard Stihl 50:1 (?) mix since I had the saw (9yrs) and have never used stabilizer- it's always been fine, but lately I've been thinking about putting stabilizer in my 5 gal jugs when I fill them. A Stihl will really take some abuse.

I have not done this one! ran the chain backwards a few times....But the mix gas is a different color and way to much to lose if I stright gas one!

That's why I never loan my saws out! "Uhhmmm yeah Jon,it worked fine after you dropped it off,I have no idea what happened to it :shut: "

 

[JustWood]

I've used Shindaiwa for a LONG time. 15 years maybe.
I just got a deal on just shy of 2 cases (23 bottles) of unopened 16 oz bottles of I think Amsoil for $16 at a yard sale. I'm good for a little while!

 

[smokinj]

I dont really care what oil I get as long as it makes in the saw! ;-)

 

[JustWood]

I dont really care what oil I get as long as it makes in the saw! ;-)

Me neither. It's all pretty good oil. Mixing it right is the key to performance. I always bought Shindaiwa because it was priced right and most places carry it around here.
I'm not a fan of synthetics. Even engine oil. No scientific evidence just don't like the idea.
The only place I'll use synthetic is gear lube. I swear by it in gear/bearing applications.

 

[smokinj]

I dont really care what oil I get as long as it makes in the saw! ;-)

Me neither. It's all pretty good oil. Mixing it right is the key to performance. I always bought Shindaiwa because it was priced right and most places carry it around here.
I'm not a fan of synthetics. Even engine oil. No scientific evidence just don't like the idea.
The only place I'll use synthetic is gear lube. I swear by it in gear/bearing applications.

Yea I would have been all over that deal you got....

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Air cooled 2 stroke engines are not that picky, and, I doubt anyone on this board has ever seen an oil-related failure in a chainsaw.

Once, our head-case boss told an idiot kid to take a Homie and cut a large bush. Didn't tell him the chain wouldn't work for plowing, or where the container of MIX was.
Straight-gassing will get 'em every time- totally trashed p&c. (Our standard mix was Echo 50:1.)

Saw mfgs tell all sorts of stories about mix ratios to use:
ratio with their oil, ratio with all other oils (half as much as with theirs, e.g. 25:1 vice 50:1),
16:1 regardless which oil,
ratio spec'd on oil container,
50:1 for BIA spec TCW oil.

In spirit of K.I.S.S. here, I've used nothing but 50:1 with "brand-name" synthetic oil labeled as suitable for 50:1, for 30+ yrs. No failures, engine innards look great. Extreme little smoke. As experts have stated, it's the OIL that determines the ratio, not the engine. Keeping port & muffler clean is a big +.

Most all quality oils have fuel-stabilizer, so no need of Sea-Foam or such. Just keep fuel in sealed container, in as cool & dry a place as possible.

To be fair, that's not a failure caused by premix oil

 

[MarkinNC]

I thought that may be the case: it's all decent stuff, at least the brand name oils. Thanks for all the replies

 

[MarkinNC]

I forgot to say I don't have guts to run any 2 stroke with a 100:1 mix. I think Amsoil makes some very good products as well.

 

[jebatty]

Cheapskate at work in my house. I mix 50:1 on the least expensive 2-cycle oil rated for air cooled engines at that mix ratio that I can find; also premium fuel with stabilizer. With that I cut 10 +/- cords per year of firewood for the stove and gasser plus tree felling for lumber in the typical range of 5000 bd ft per year. My Husky 372XPG with 18" bar has been the saw of choice on this since 2002 and I never have done anything to the saw -- no new plugs, fuel filter, or air cleaner -- except clean the air filter, sharpen the chains, dress the bar and keep it full of bar oil. The Husky purrs today as well as when it was new.

 

[CTYank]

To be fair, that's not a failure caused by premix oil

Who ever said anything about "fair"? That was just my way of pointing out that engine lubrication failure in chainsaws is almost certainly due to lack of oil. With any mix oil that meets current BIA specs. Just wouldn't want to go 100:1 with any.

Yes, running excessively lean will burn the biscuits.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

To be fair, that's not a failure caused by premix oil

Who ever said anything about "fair"? That was just my way of pointing out that engine lubrication failure in chainsaws is almost certainly due to lack of oil. With any mix oil that meets current BIA specs. Just wouldn't want to go 100:1 with any.

Yes, running excessively lean will burn the biscuits.

My point was not that no one has ever seen a straight gassed or mixed too thin saw. My point is that saws don't sh_t the bed because someone used the wrong kind of premix oil.

 

[Highbeam]

This "name brand" idea.... does it have any actual weight? I mean, I use supertech two stroke oil in my very expensive diesel truck engine. Certainly, the generic brands are really just rebadged containers of oil made by the small handful of refineries.

I just buy the poulan synthetic 2-stroke oil in the quart or so size that has the fancy measuring cup on the top. Never had an issue and I've never put bar oil or mixed gas in the wrong hole.

 

[MarkinNC]

This "name brand" idea.... does it have any actual weight? I mean, I use supertech two stroke oil in my very expensive diesel truck engine. Certainly, the generic brands are really just rebadged containers of oil made by the small handful of refineries.

I just buy the poulan synthetic 2-stroke oil in the quart or so size that has the fancy measuring cup on the top. Never had an issue and I've never put bar oil or mixed gas in the wrong hole.

One of my other interests is used oil analysis which I have performed on both my vehicles this year. In my amateur opinion, there is some off brand motor oil (coastal) that one would not want to run in there car or truck. the Supertech motor oil from Walmart is actually OK but it's additive package is not as robust as name brand oils. In regard to 2 cycle premix (2nd hand from the saw shops), the cheepo stuff does not contain fuel stabilizers. I do know the name brand stuff does advertize on the label that it has fuel stabilizers. As I recall I have scene Briggs and Stratton premix that does not say anything about that, but don't quote me on that.