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lightweight powerful saw

Post in 'The Gear' started by silta@ak.net, Aug 26, 2010.

  1. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    It's time to upgrade from my 30 year old Jonsrud. I had a couple Stihl's before I got the Jonsrud and found it to be a great saw for all these years. I live in Alaska and cut softwoods, spruce and birch. I want a 16"bar and the lightest, most powerful saw I can get for $500 or less. I like the specs (8.8 lbs and 2.4hp) on the husky 339xp but maybe I'd be better off with the 435 or 440 for $200 less. I'm not to sure if the 435-440 is durable enough though? I'm looking for proud owners to chirp up on what they like and recommend.

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  2. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    The 346 is what I would look at very strong for a 50cc saw!
  3. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    What brand is a 346?
  4. peterc38

    peterc38 Feeling the Heat

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    346XP is a Husky,

    Hottest 50 cc saw going IMHO.

    It pretty much fits what you described for what you are looking for to a "T".
  5. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    Husky 346xp
  6. thinkxingu

    thinkxingu Minister of Fire

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    +1 346, but there are some different versions out there. Do some research to find the 'right' one. I recall a silver side cover or something.

    S
  7. wendell

    wendell Minister of Fire

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    346XP, hands down!! Try to find one that is the newer 50 CC version (only an issue if you are looking at older used saws) but old enough that they haven't switched to the cat muffler. If you find one with the silver cover, I think that is perfect.
  8. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill Minister of Fire

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    Oo, Oo, I have one! Older 346XP-45CC. I modded the muffler thanks to 'Jay, Hittin, and lots of others,I love it! Swapped the 18" bar for a 16", and I'm not looking back. I can only imagine what an extra 5CC would do for it. Softwood up to 22", no problem and fast. Start looking, you won't regret it. ;-)
  9. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    I can see the 346xp is a good one, but my priority is lightweight. Would the 339 be enough power? And what's wrong with a 435 or 440? Are they not durable? I might consider the extra weight to save a couple hundred $$$'s.
  10. kenskip1

    kenskip1 Member

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    Coleman Texas
    For about $200. less A Husky 445 is ideal for me. 16BC, with the x-torque engine this saw is a cutting fool. The 346xp is a real fast turner but it is still above my price range. The 445 is near vibration free,is a one pull starter when warm,and is the stingiest gas drinker of all my other saws.For what you are cutting I think this could be the saw for you. Ken
  11. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    The 445 is just slightly lighter then the 346xp but two hp instead of 3 but I would save lots of money. Ken sounds like the 445 has enough power and is happy with his. I'm not a heavy user, about 6-8 cords of mostly spruce a year. Any other suggestions?
  12. thinkxingu

    thinkxingu Minister of Fire

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    Jippo, 30-year-old Jonsered? You asked, we answered. Suck it up, and in 30 years you can post the same request. Course, the 346'll prob'ly outlive us.

    S
  13. zzr7ky

    zzr7ky Minister of Fire

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    Agree that the 346 is a great choice. If you can get one there the Dolmar 5100 has been my first choice for several years. I paid $400.
  14. wendell

    wendell Minister of Fire

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    I'd still vote for the 346XP but if you want to save some money, look on eBay for a Husky 350. There will still be one occasionally new and often lightly used. Heck, I'll sell you mine and I'll buy the the 346!
  15. HittinSteel

    HittinSteel Minister of Fire

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    346XP
    Jonsered 2153
    Dolmar 5100
    Stihl MS 260


    Probably in that order, but the stihl is the lightest and after a muffler mod it pulls a 16" bar nicely.
  16. Shipper50

    Shipper50 Minister of Fire

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    Dolmar 5100 with a 18 inch bar, best saw for the money and size in my opinion I have ever run.

    Shipper
  17. wendell

    wendell Minister of Fire

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    I would say definitely in that order with the 346 and the 2153 being virtually the same saw with a different handle position which can make a big difference in the comfort of running the saw.
  18. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    It looks to me after a visit to a local store and comparing the 346xp and the 435 that the 435 should fulfill my needs. The salesman even felt the 435 should be more then enough saw and nearly $300 less. Seems like the 435 is a good saw and if it doesn't pack enough power on the bigger stuff, I'll just ask Ole Jonsered to help out.
  19. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    Well I selfishly spent more money then I should have and bought the 346xp. Wow! I love it. Very little vibration, easy on gas and cuts like crazy. I really like this saw. I got talked into a 20 inch bar and the first thing I noticed is my back isn't as sore after as I don't bend over as much for limbing. It has a roller tip which I have never had before. Only problem is I can't get the little cheapo greaser gun to work. Any suggestions?
  20. wendell

    wendell Minister of Fire

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    Congratulations!! I knew you'd see the light. Funny since this thread started I got a 346, too.

    I would throw the grease gun away. There really is no need to grease on a modern bar and it can actually do more damage than good. In fact, many bars are being made without a grease hole in them.
  21. wendell

    wendell Minister of Fire

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    And, just wait until you get 5-10 tanks through it and get it tuned to 13,800-14,000. You will be very happy!!
  22. mrfjsf

    mrfjsf Member

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    You made a GREAT choice by going with the 346. I just purchased one myself with roughly the same intentions as you did. Ive got 4 tanks through it so far and I can already feel it starting to "open up" a little more. Its hard to wipe the grin off your face after using this saw!
  23. silta@ak.net

    silta@ak.net Member

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    You don't need to grease the tip roller? manual says with every fuel fill?

    I see you have a 16" on yours. That's what I wanted and I'm still not sure it was a good choice. I certainly don't need a longer bar for the stuff I cut but got talked into it.
  24. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Minister of Fire

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    The consensus here has been not to grease the bar nose, as it collects dirt. I stopped greasing it years ago and it hasn't caused any problems.

    I think that same grease gun is also supposed to be used to grease the needle bearing, but don't know if the same wisdom applies. I've only greased mine once in however many years I've had the 359, so it can't be critical.
  25. FixedGearFlyer

    FixedGearFlyer Member

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    I bought a 346xp a few weeks ago as well. It's phenomenal! Light, easy handling, lots of power, and great acceleration. Best saw I've every handled.

    And the cheap, crappy grease gun they included was broken before I even opened the bag. :) I have a small, metal grease gun like this one: Mini Grease Gun on Amazon.com. You should be able to find one at any hardware store or saw shop for about $12.00.

    That said, after I had a bar nose sprocket issue on my first day with the new saw, I won't be greasing it, either. I blew it out with some compressed air and found that a few metal shavings had jammed it. Someone here suggested I soak the bar nose in bar/chain oil overnight, so I did. It's worked perfectly since then and it gets enough oil from the chain that it should run smooth for a long, long time.

    In the past two weeks, it's had about 15 or 20 tanks run through it and has dropped and bucked 4 or 5 cords. After break-in and a carb adjustment, it absolutely screams!

    Congrats!

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