Limit of stove top temperature on NC30

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One of my issues may be that the stove pipe is just right for the stove. Meaning, I would really have to screw up to overheat it. On the other hand, fear of overheating is causing reluctance to burn to potential. Twice the stove went unattended for 30 minutes with full loads. Both times the max temp was 800 or just under. If in fact the draft ability of the setup is limiting the burn to 800, I can let her run without such concern. Is that a viable possibility?

On another note, I tried the blower today, along with identifying and somewhat correcting an issue of air flow in the basement (a space that was segregated last year and is no longer due to doors/walls removed from flood) and the result was noticeable. Outside was 26 and house was at 73. Going to keep the blower running tonight. Looking for 68 or better in the morning as a positive result.
 
I would not assume 800 to be your limit. The fuel we burn is not the same at all times. Next load might have more potential.
 
Good point. Split sizes, outside temps wood species will all alter the temp. Just having read someone's post regarding having to fight overheating with a taller system had me wondering if my concerns of a runaway stove were exagerated a bit.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
Oldspark
All the stoves i run are on old masonry chimneys from 20 -25 ft tall. Iv had the Harman in 2 different locations as well as the 30s .That said OS your right about the chimney ,it makes all the difference in how the stove behaves.My son has a 30 on a brand new tall chimney and he is always trying to keep it from getting too hot. Mine on the other hand are on old large diameter chimneys with much less draft and i dont see those 800-900 degree stove tops like my son gets.
Part of the problem is EPA stove don't allow full regulation of the primary air. In order to satify the tests they require a limit on how far the primary can be shut down and I'm guessing that is based on something like a 16-20' chimney. Put a tall chimney with more draft in the equation and its overfire time. I did battle with my Magnolia constantly to keep it below meltdown.
 
Since Myway can not seem to maintain a hot stove top it would seem we have an under fire problem and not an overheat or overfire problem.
 
mywaynow said:
Good point. Split sizes, outside temps wood species will all alter the temp. Just having read someone's post regarding having to fight overheating with a taller system had me wondering if my concerns of a runaway stove were exagerated a bit.

For optimal burn I have to run the air control at different settings for locust vs cherry vs doug fir. With doug fir I can close it almost all the way and still have billowing secondaries. With cherry it needs to be about 1/4 open and with locust it needs to be about 1/3d or sometimes almost half-way for big splits loaded E/W.

Let the stove stretch out by opening up the air a bit more. Also, try setting a table fan on low speed at the top of the basement steps, blowing cooler upstairs air down the stairs. That should help stimulate convection.
 
At this point the blower has made much improvement of the situation. Looking forward to how the overnight burn does tonight. Will post the results in the morning.

One thing I am curious about is the effect of pulling the coals forward on the primary air outlet (doghouse??). Today I took a vac and ran the exhaust through the inlet of the primary. Blowing out the primary seemed to help the burn down I was working on. Is it possible that technique will have the ability to clog the primary outlet at the doghouse?
 
Good news. Did you pick up a blower for the stove and install it today?
 
Blower came with the unit, installed when the stove was installed. Used it once or twice to cool the stove top, but never considered using it to aid the heating of the house. Have always enjoyed strong natural convection without moving the air artificially, with the exception of an Eco-fan. I could stand in the stairwell of the basement door and feel air flow across my feet as cold air, and hot air would move the hair on my head, both moving opposite directions. Pretty intense to see temperature create that kind of air movement.
 
If you are still looking for advice on this topic, I would summarize your experience (where you are now) in a new thread.

Right now, it's so damn long it's hard to help (if you still want it) in a way that is not redundant.

pen
 
I was guessing this thread would hit the 100 posts mark or more based on someone having trouble with an Englander. There is a BK thread about to hit the same number.
 
pen said:
If you are still looking for advice on this topic, I would summarize your experience (where you are now) in a new thread.

Right now, it's so damn long it's hard to help (if you still want it) in a way that is not redundant.

pen

Will do.

New Topic heading: Getting the NC30 to heat as well as the old Defiant
 
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