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Little Moe stove pipe fit

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by missing link, Oct 28, 2011.

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  1. missing link

    missing link Member

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    I have a little Moe, 6" elbow out the back into a single wall 4' section,then double wall to the ceiling.
    Should the elbow that fits into the first section be on the inside of the single wall or the outside ,I have it on the inside and it had a tight fit but there is a small seepage of creosote . Do you think it will stop or does that first section of pipe have to go on the inside of the elbow that comes out of the back of the stove, it was the only way it would fit together.

    in order STOVE / Elbow/ single wall /////
    This never happened with my last stove of 25 yrs
    I'm thinking that single wall should go on the inside of the elbow I'm confused

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  2. missing link

    missing link Member

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    I figured it out, put it together WRONG ,I have to reverse the elbow ,hopefully it goes together, goto let Moe go out, N'Easter on the way. I could be a hack and furnace cement the connection up but that's not right
    The crimped part goes inside the back of stove and then the singlewall goes inside the elbow ,goto put furnace cement on the crimped part and slide it into the back of the stove

    PS: think things through if your a do it yourselfer like myself
  3. missing link

    missing link Member

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    update///
    Well the reversal of the elbow didn't work,couldn't crimp in down enough to fit the 5 1/2" opening in the back of stove.
    What I need is a 6" on the stovepipe end and a 5 1/2" on the other end
    I have to turn the furnace on, totally bummed but I'm sure all will work out
    ML
  4. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Is this with black 24 ga stove pipe? Normally one does not mix single-wall and double-wall connector pipe.

    If single-wall piping, the crimped end of the pipe always is toward the stove, not the chimney. 5.5" sounds non-standard. The Big and the Mid Moe were definitely 6". It seems odd that the Little Moe would be any different. I am wondering if the collar is designed to have the pipe go on the outside of the collar. What is the OD of the flue collar vs the ID?
  5. missing link

    missing link Member

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    Hi yes it was 24 gauge
    I have a 6" single wall stove pipe that will be the first section above the elbow .
    The crimped part of the elbow would not fit in or go over the exit at stove back so I reversed it so the regular end went over the exit and the crimped end went inside the first section of pipe and that's when the creosote dip happened, maybe I just need a 6" to 6" non crimped elbow?
    thank for your reply
    ML
  6. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Would it be possible to post a picture of the setup? I'd like to help you get setup safely for the storm. It would help to see the problem to make sure there are no other issues. It sound like you are correct, a 6 x 6" non-crimped, black steel 24 ga, stove elbow should work. Don't use galvanized pipe here. Seal the elbow at the stove with a bead of Rutland stove cement and fasten it securely to the flue collar with 3 equally spaced screws.

    http://www.lehmans.com/store/Stoves..._90_Degree_Elbow_Wood_Stove_Pipe___1X90?Args=
  7. missing link

    missing link Member

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    Yes thanks, I plan on getting a 6x6 " non crimped I'll put it over the exit and the rest will be all good ,but for today the gas hot air furnace is on
    Thank's ML
  8. missing link

    missing link Member

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    Today I went out and got a Tee 6" not crimped and capped the bottom . Letting the stove cement cure all connections went together smoothly and snug. We were spared the major early snow here on the SouthCoast of Ma, at least I can rely on my furnace as back up.
    Going to watch the Patriots game and have a shoulder fire .
    thanks BeGreen
    ML
  9. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    You're welcome. Post some pictures if you get a chance. All Nighter made some good stoves.
  10. klustgarten

    klustgarten New Member

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    I had the same problem with an old Fisher Mamma Bear. The stove has a rear exit. The crimped end of the elbow would not fit inside of the exit which looks to be made out of 1/4" steel, however the female end fit perfectly over the lip. I took a standard piece of stove pipe and cut it to make a 10" long double female adapter so that the remaining joints would be in the correct orientation. As a result I have one joint backwards that could leak creosote. I didn't worry about it because it is in my garage/workshop. If the stove was in a house I probably would have used Rutland furnace cement on that one joint.
  11. missing link

    missing link Member

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    Everything is running smoothly, great draft, no leaks the tee I installed seems to be working out fine. It hasn't been cold enough yet to have all day & night burn here but the over night burns are leaving me with some nice coals @ 4am when I get up,then put some splits in to keep the house warm for the rest of the family when they get up . The temps on the stove surface range from 350 to 500 ,I'm sure it could get a lot hotter with no problem, It would just blow us out of the house at this time of year , we have a steady 75 degrees in the living area and the bedrooms 60's .
    I'm looking foward see what this stove can do, as for now it has blown away mt last stove which was 25 years old and on its last legs ( Dutchwest federal Airtight 224 CCL ) lot's of gaskets and moving parts which broke down over time,now it's one door gasket & air inlet with a pipe damper.
    Oh yea with the blower going it's a real heat machine
    ML
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