Log home sealing

[Adios Pantalones]

I had my home chinked years ago, and have stuffed backing rod into areas of draft, but there are spaces that I could not get the material (was using "Log Jam", I think). I borrowed an IR thermometer and found that my drafts were coming from inside corners.

Does anyone have a suggestion for something that will get into the really thin spaces?

(note that I avoided several obvious phrases that could be used in vulgar puns)

 

[woodsman23]

I would try using minunim expanding foam and stick the filler tube as deep inside the cracks as possible and add just a bit at a time until it seal properly.

 

[Hogwildz]

I second the foam. Or a really good urethane caulk.

 

[Exmasonite]

i need to look into this myself... first winter in a log house we purchased in the fall and i think there's some drafts. I know "sealing" is one way to go but the other option/term is "chinking", as you mentioned, as seen here:

http://www.permachink.com/permachink.htm

I don't know if it's just a matter of terminology or if there's an actual difference but that's what you're looking for, i think.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I had my home chinked years ago...

Does anyone have a suggestion for something that will get into the really thin spaces?

Like a crack I can't get a foam applicator into

 

[mayhem]

Google a product called "Log Builder". Its essentially a caulk designed for log homes. Its in a caulk tube, fills small cracks nicely and will expand a bit with the crack.

 

[gpcollen1]

I had my home chinked years ago...

Does anyone have a suggestion for something that will get into the really thin spaces?

Like a crack I can't get a foam applicator into

Could you drill a hole big enough to get the applicator into?

 

[Vic99]

Yes, drill a hole. Be care ful with that "minimum expanding" foam. Still expands by at least 50%. Add it in stages.


Better yet, caulk with a very small cut on the applicator cone might be easier to deal with and clean. Day or two after applied you can paint or stain it.

Or, maybe a really thickly applied varnish, two coats, would stop the draft on a thin crack.

 

[mayhem]

Whatever you do, don't use expanding foam between your loogs...stuff can be like ice and you stand a good chance of warping something. I used a can of minimum expanding foam to seal a double hung window, took off the trim boards and opened up the cavity, filled it in and let the foam do its thing, trimmed the excess and reattached the trim...now the windows won't close enough to latch because the lower sill is bowed upward.

 

[gpcollen1]

Whatever you do, don't use expanding foam between your loogs...stuff can be like ice and you stand a good chance of warping something. I used a can of minimum expanding foam to seal a double hung window, took off the trim boards and opened up the cavity, filled it in and let the foam do its thing, trimmed the excess and reattached the trim...now the windows won't close enough to latch because the lower sill is bowed upward.

What the current product is called in the minimally expanding foam department - Window and Door by Dow [there are others]. This is the stuff you will find at Lowes and Home Depot these days...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_15634-236-2...oam&pl=1&currentURL;=/pl__0__s?Ntt=spray+foam

I just sealed 2 sliders and 2 windows - new installation - with it and it worked perfectly. I think you did not use the Window and Door.

As for a solution as it sounds like the sill is still bowed upward, get your reciprocation saw and cut a line through it. This should take some of the bow out of it. If one pass is not enough, do it again. Ask me how I know? I won't admit that i installed a door a few years ago and did the same thing. 2 passes with the sawzall and the door was perfect - live and learn.

 

[mayhem]

I used the exact product you specified above, the Dow window and door foam in a can. I went to the LHS where I bought it and asked for their advice...guy looked me straight in the eye and said to NEVER use any foam in a can in a door or window frame.

I probably used to much but still, pretty annoying...I stand behind my suggestion to not use the stuff to seal up small cracks in logs, use the stuff thats made for it.

 

[Reggie Dunlap]

No type of expanding foam is going to cause logs to move, not with the weight of the house on them. But too much foam of any type can cause window and door jambs to bow.

Whether foam is right for your application I don't know, it depends on the size of the void you are trying to fill. For small voids a flexible caulk may be best.

 

[gpcollen1]

I used the exact product you specified above, the Dow window and door foam in a can. I went to the LHS where I bought it and asked for their advice...guy looked me straight in the eye and said to NEVER use any foam in a can in a door or window frame.

I probably used to much but still, pretty annoying...I stand behind my suggestion to not use the stuff to seal up small cracks in logs, use the stuff thats made for it.

I installed mine in stages, one pass at a time and let it cure. Maybe 3 passes for 2x6 wall and it was coming out. trimmed it with a sheet rock saw and done. Not one bow this time.

 

[mayhem]

Whether foam is right for your application I don't know, it depends on the size of the void you are trying to fill. For small voids a flexible caulk may be best.

The OP said he's trying to fill cracks too small for his chinking material.