Log splitter wont start. need some info

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Don't remove any lines. Nothing will leak. You are just physically un bolting the whole pump from the engine. Once it's pulled off the shaftof the motor you can give the motor a quick pull with the spark plug out. It should pull right over easily. I have a feeling it's the hydraulic control valve.
when the splitter shut down the valve was in the reverse position. i put it back in neutral
 
Raise your right hand and repeat after me: "That engine is toast.".
 
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here are pictures of where the pump meets engine. where should i detach?

image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Take those nuts off and the pump will drop down. It is only in contact with the shaft via the Lovejoy coupler between it and the engine.
 
sorry for the dumb questions, would rather the knowledgeable assist then me wrecking it further.

do you mean the nuts highlighted red or yellow?

image.jpg
 
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The yellow ones.
 
Its not a wasted step no matter what the issue. You would have to do this to replace the engine if that is what the problem is.
 
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back to report..
i was able to get the pump off and tried ot pull and no luck, as usual i had an issue and had to remove the engine. now i know how to replace the engine.

with the engine off and me still not being able to pull the cord. are we now 100% certain its the engine?
 
back to report..
i was able to get the pump off and tried ot pull and no luck, as usual i had an issue and had to remove the engine. now i know how to replace the engine.

with the engine off and me still not being able to pull the cord. are we now 100% certain its the engine?

And BrotherBart WINS the internet for a day......:p
 
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Yup BB wins lol. Now you get to get a nice shiny motor.

My fuel system was so messed up it wasn't worth even fixing it. New $100 motor was much easier too.

Remember to give the motor a nice break in. I used the recommended oil and ran it for 3 hours at varying speeds then drained it while hot. Then put synthetic in, was worth it as it takes only about a quart.
 
Yeah new motor time. I really thought it was the hydraulic since it didn't lock up solid and could be moved a little. It's also possibly the pull start mechanism. But it's a slim chance. It wouldn't hurt to take it off. What Hp motor is it? I might have a spare.
 
With the close tolerances, when a hydraulic pump goes the whole block usually knows about it.
 
Yeah new motor time. I really thought it was the hydraulic since it didn't lock up solid and could be moved a little. It's also possibly the pull start mechanism. But it's a slim chance. It wouldn't hurt to take it off. What Hp motor is it? I might have a spare.
pretty sure its a 6.5hp vertical engine
 
Can't tell ya going the other way, but going from the 5hp Briggs on mine to the 6.5hp HF didn't change a thing in how my splitter operates.

And it sounds like he is offering a free engine.
 
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If the pump is an 11 GPM pump you would technically be under powered using a 5 hp engine by a fraction.
will i be able to use the same coupler with the new engine? is it easy to remove from pump/engine?
ill say this, i am learning a bunch of stuff from you guys and it is very much appreciated.
 
Yes - as long as shaft diameter of the new engine is the same. The lovejoy is held to the shaft with two set screws. Loosen them and tap that half of the lovejoy off of the engine.

ETA - When lining up the new engine and lovejoy connections it is VERY important to have the lovejoy lined up as perfect as possible. When you get to that point, there are a couple of tricks to help with that.
 
Yes - as long as shaft diameter of the new engine is the same. The lovejoy is held to the shaft with two set screws. Loosen them and tap that half of the lovejoy off of the engine.
great. to keep things simple i just might go with new engine. when i called smallenginewarehouse.com they had an exact replacement with the same shaft. i figure this will simplify things for simple folk like me.
 
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