Long wood!

[neumsky]

How long of wood would you consider to be too long to hand split?

 

[mywaynow]

Anything that is taller than the height of my shoulders.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Anything that is taller than the height of my shoulders.

haha. I've split pieces 30 inches long before. depends on the wood as well but it can be a little tougher.

 

[neumsky]

So would you say 24 inches or less and it has to be dry? And is it important to have the log on top of another log? Or splitting on the ground ok?

 

[ecocavalier02]

if im hand splitting i will just split on the ground most of the time. and the wood doesn't have to be dry to split it. there is some wood that might split easier as it ages like elm i think but im not positive. but no need to wait. what size wood does your stove take? 24 inches shouldn't be a problem.

 

[LLigetfa]

Hand split? I have a hydraulic spitter so the the only thing too long to split is what's too long to fit the splitter. That said, the splitter can take longer wood than the stove does and since I cut to stove length, the entire question is moot.

That said, we used to hand split 10 foot logs for split rail fence.

 

[TreePointer]

I keep my wood at 16" to make calculating cords easy, and it's pretty much what satisfies all potential customers around here. I could split longer if it's something like red maple or ash with no crotches or knots and it's not a twisted trunk, but it's still more effort than shorter rounds. If it's elm, I think 3" would be the desirable length, lol.

These days, the longest I'd consider splitting is under 26" because that's the max opening on my hydraulic splitter.
I don't split fence rails anymore, either--that's why we have Lowes and Home Depot.

 

[neumsky]

Well...my stove only excepts 18 inchers. The reason I'm asking is is I have a HD super splitting maul and that did'nt work. So I invested in the Stihl PA 80 and I got better results but still don't split like I see some of these guys splitting wood on these video's. I'm going to purchase the Fiskar X27 and use it on the same wood, probably this friday. This wood is newly cut...I have no idea what it is. There all at least 24 inches in length. There pretty much 15 inches in diameter. I have been splitting on the ground. I wonder if it's too wet yet? They've been cut about 3 weeks ago. I'd send pic's but I'm having problems with my photo application.

 

[TreePointer]

The videos I've seen that are supposed to demonstrate how great a splitting axe/maul works often give too rosy a picture. The wood is usually some easy splitting species and the rounds are shorter than 18".

For example, I think the popular Fiskars splitting axe is a great tool; however, there are some popular videos that make it look like it has some special splitting magic, but those are short rounds of birch.

 

[neumsky]

All ya'll braggin about hydraulic splitters haha... I'm sure I will get one of those some day...but right now...ONLY 56 years of age and still think I got it lol. I do believe it benefits in the way of physical activity...so will probably continue to hand split...Geez...getting tired already from all this typing!

 

[TreePointer]

I still hand split some for the workout, but I don't have enough time to split everything that way.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I've hand split wood over 72" for making bows- that's a lot of sledge and wedge action to preserve full-length staves.

For burning and just using a maul I've split a lot of 40" long logs (red oak and white pine) that was at least 12-18" wide. You might be surprised at how well straight stuff splits at that length, and you feel like a damn super hero when it pops.

 

[jotul8e2]

My Oslo will give me over night or day long burns if I load it with 22" pieces, so I try and cut at about that length. I split mostly white oak and hickory with my Stihl maul. I have wedges but never use them anymore - if the maul will not get it I get the chainsaw back out.

Certainly shorter rounds will split more easily.

 

[neumsky]

@ Jotul...did'nt you end up with a bear?

 

[OhioBurner©]

I cut a bunch of wood to 24" lengths last year to try to take advantage of the full length my Jotul 550 would take, but it was much more difficult, but mainly just the pieces that were also big around. Mostly BL, bigger peices probably 20" or a little bigger diamter. Most of the big ones I had to wait until a really cold day (single digits they did split a little easier), ones that still gave me troubles I resawed down to 2x12" to fit in stove n/s and much easier to split.

Those videos probably also exluded a bunch of whacks that didnt split, they probably only show the best/easiest splits and probably use easier splitting wood too. I wouldnt put much stock in them.

 

[TradEddie]

In my limited experience, its important to try different methods. Mauls are great as long as they work first swing, but if you have to force a maul out of a partial split too often, I feel its more efficient to use wedges. I also think that different shapes work better for different woods, for example my maul has a very wide angle, and its a joy to feel oak explode under its swing, but that same maul will bounce off poplar, while a regular felling axe will effortlessly split that same poplar. Similarly I use a very narrow old axe head as a wedge for hickory, mainly because it will stay in place after the first swing...
Back to the original question, my old insert could probably take 28" splits diagonally, and I could split oak, maple, hickory or poplar that long with no problem by hand, although I tried to keep splits 18-24', sometimes the tree service wouldn't oblige

TE

 

[fox9988]

If 18" is the max length you can burn, and your rounds are 24"+ long, cut them in half (or down to size) before you split--less cutting, easier splitting.

 

[neumsky]

I spoke to a local woodsman here and he said the wet wood is an issue....but more than likely it's Knotty. He said because he splits so much wood that he uses a hydraulic splitter. He said that he don't care what handsplitter you buy...it's not going to go thru that stuff. Does anyone have any experience with the manual hydraulic 10 ton splitters? I would'nt mind the 110 dollars or so you would have to spend to get one and it would'nt take that much room in my garage...and is that powerful enough?

 

[jackatc1]

This wedge will split most large rounds. When hand spliting large rounds 20" I start on the outside.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_277740-4226...&currentURL;=/pl__0__s?Ntt=wedges&facetInfo;=

 

[jotul8e2]

In my limited experience, its important to try different methods....
TE

I think this is true. You have to find what works for you. I used wedges for many years, but it is simply not worth the effort - to me - to get out the wedges for the few pieces my maul will not get. I finish up a tree a couple of weeks ago that is typical for me. In the entire tree - about half a cord - I had four, maybe five rounds that the maul just bounce on. Two or three were crotches and would be time consuming even with wedges, and a couple had hidden forks inside from early growth. About 20 seconds with the chain saw on each piece and I could split them easily with the maul.

I haven't used wedges since the last time I split elm. At least I hope it was the last time.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

So would you say 24 inches or less and it has to be dry? And is it important to have the log on top of another log? Or splitting on the ground ok?

Don't let the pictures, videos and such get to you. When you see someone splitting super fast and making it look easy, that is because they pick the easiest stuff there is to split. You'll not notice any knots either. If you've ever seen 3 or 4 men splitting wood and each one using the same tool but each one splitting different wood, you will immediately see there is a huge difference in different woods and also a huge difference in how different guys handle the splitter!

I split wood by hand for way too many years but I have to admit that I always sort of enjoyed the work. I've used single bit and double bit axe and also a splitting maul. I've also used a sledge and wedge many, many times. It all depends upon what you are splitting. I could still split soft maple all day (well, maybe) using only an axe but you won't catch me splitting something like hickory that way. And as for setting the log on top of another, to me that is only wasted energy. Why lift every piece of wood before splitting it? Also, many times you'll be sitting that same log up several times before finishing. I've always split just sitting the long on the ground. Well, exceptions are sometimes here too. I did try setting logs on stumps or other logs but quickly discarded that as wasted time and energy.

Learn to identify the wood you are splitting and then learn the best way to split that wood. Splitting the very same way each time is not always the best way to do the job. That will come with experience and experimenting.

 

[pen]

depends on what you are needing the wood for



pen

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Bang in a wedge, then the next, move the first, and so on.

Here I am splitting with a wooden hammer I made with a hatchet, splitting a thin 6' log with just a hatchet (contest was to make a bow with string and a hatchet alone)

here I am with 6' staves we split that day

 

[neumsky]

Dennis...thanx for the info about the splitting on the ground... I thought maybe there was more flex on the ground...hence not being able to penetrate as well or something...thanx guy's for the video & picks. Every bit helps! @ jackatac...that thing looks bad and you would'nt think that point would break unless you used it on a rock!