Looking for a new saw

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Tedbo68

New Member
Nov 20, 2015
22
Wappingers Falls, NY
I am thinking about buying a new saw for going to get wood. Not looking to fell trees , but cut up log lengths either delivered or already down on someone's property. I currently have a Husqvarna 440e. It's about 41 cc and has a 16 inch bar. Is it worth spending the cash on a 555 or xp equivalent tat has about 60-70 cc depending on model?
 
Depends on the majority of what you will be working up (or really, bar size required). What size of bar are you looking to run? A 40cc saw is on the cutting edge of running an 18" bar. If you are looking to run a 20" I would suggest the 50cc to 60cc range with the occasional option of running a 24/25" bar on a 60+cc.
Then you get into the big boys which is probably more than the average firewood hunter/gatherer is looking for.
 
Adding to the above, how much wood are you cutting? If you're finding you're regularly cutting big hardwood you'll use up the 440 and have to buy something. Might as well buy something a bit bigger and have the 440 around for a long time for limbing etc.

If you're only cutting 2-3 cords a year, like me then it may be more want than need, like me.
 
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I routinely cut 2-3 cords a year. Started with the box store poulans and homelites. Did not take long to realize I needed something hardier. Bought the echo 590 and have not looked back. Came with 18" bar, which is more than enough for me, and can run 24" bar, which I bought separately for the big, occasional, stuff. For $400 it was worth it for me. Rather than buying a $150-200 saw every other year when they break.
 
Going to a ~60cc saw means you can competently run regular 3/8 pitch chain on up to a 20" bar.
(Note that 3/8 pitch is not the same as 3/8 low profile.)

The larger pitch makes for a substantial jump in speed and ability to cut larger wood with less time and effort. Why? 3/8 chain takes a larger bite of wood than 3/8LP or .325 chain found on smaller displacement saws. Larger bites mean more power is needed in the saw to keep up rpm's during the cut. If you want to run a 20" bar in eastern hardwoods, I highly recommend that ~60cc saw. A 555 is an excellent choice.

TIP: When comparing saws of equal displacement, make sure to look at any difference in hp ratings.
 
Thank you guys. This is why I love this forum. I cut probably 3 cord this year. I thought it was more want then need but I'm starting to realize I think I need a bigger saw.
 
Maybe not the ideal approach but what I did was have my old Stihl 041AV "Farmboss" fixed up and keep a 20" bar on that for big cuts and then bought a new Farmboss (forgot the cc' but it's the 271 model) for my all around use. Total investment in the $500-600 range to have two levels of performance versus weight and use.

Admittedly, since buying the new Farmboss that's about all I've used even for oak and locust up to 20" in diameter. I've already done 5 cord of just black locust,with that saw this year...I keep a cycle of 3 chains but have never had it bog down.
 
they discontinued my MS290... heavy unpowered sonabich. but i fixed those problems. I really like stihl saws, and won't stray... but if your in the market for a budget saw, check out the Jonsered line. my buddy does tree work and uses them exclusively. the few times i've had my hands on them they felt pretty good and cut better then expected.
 
Thank you guys. This is why I love this forum. I cut probably 3 cord this year. I thought it was more want then need but I'm starting to realize I think I need a bigger saw.
There are two schools of thought. One is to get a small light saw so you can cut more wood for longer as it takes less strength and endurance to move it around. The second is to get the biggest, highest power saw you can afford and get stronger yourself. I subscribe to the second, within reason, of course. I have never wished I had a smaller saw but have had to call on a friend before to have him bring a larger saw for certain cutting jobs. This is the case even though I have a 24" bar on one of my saws. When buying a saw, consider the upper part of what you can afford and safely wield. You won't be disappointed and neither will your wife as the bigger saws will result in noticeably bigger muscles after a cutting season :)
 
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Are you lacking in power, or bar length, or both? That will answer much of your question about the possible saw upgrade, I think.

I think that a 555/18" would be about as good an all-around saw as you're likely to find. If you routinely need more bar length than that, then I'd probably jump up to the 70cc class, with the understanding that you will have a less versatile, less pleasant saw as a result; those extra pounds weigh on you after a few hours!
 
At work I use a Stihl MS290. At home, a Jonsered 2250S. Both comparable saws. The Jonsered a little lighter, a little less expensive, a little easier to start and work with. Both are 50cc+/-. Stihl is a bit more powerful, but, I have had no notable trouble with the Jonsered. The decompression is nice on the Jonsered and it starts better, first pull every time after its warmed up. I also like not needing tools to tighten the chain of open the air filter on the Jonsered.
 
Like AmbrDrvr i bough the biggest motor I could get that came from the factory with a 16" bar. I do have a 20" bar for it that it can run when I need too, which is hardly ever.


If I needed a bigger saw, which I don't, but if I did I would skip right over 24 and look for something that could easily run a 26-28" bar day in and day out and stretch up to a 30-32 bar occasionally. If I was up against a big enough log, use the big saw down to where I could switch back to the little one, and switch back. So once again, biggest possible motor on the 26-28" factory bar.

The nice thing about running a 16" bar, a lot, is you probably have a fair bit of practice cutting a log bigger than 16" and then coming around the other side to finish the cut. This is why I would skip right over the 20 and 24" factory options - you can probably handle 24 inch logs just fine with your 16" bar.

M2c, glad I am not trying to lift rounds that big into my truck.
 
I highly recommend the XP line of Huskys. I am still running a 372 XP I bought 17 years ago that has cut miles of right o way for subdivision roads and countless cords of wood. It has gotten thrown around, and even flat abused a time or two, and has never not started when I needed it. It has been the most reliable tool I have ever owned.
I have also had a lot of time with the 362XP and 394XP-they were the same way.

It is worth the cash to get into the XP line.

There are three levels of Husky saws.
The XP line-made with better engine parts, more power to weight ratio, spin faster
Rancher line- the 455's, etc. Good saws, very comparable to Jonsered.
Homeowner line- like 235, etc. They are made by Poulan, that and they have orange paint.
 
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So I've been looking at the 555 or the 562 xp. I'm not looking at stihls mainly because my guy that services all my stuff is a husqvarna dealer. Is the extra $100 worth it for the xp? I tend to subscribe to the theory that you buy big and quality once so it lasts you. I'm leaning towards the xp because of this but I'm wondering if there is a significant difference between the two.
 
So I've been looking at the 555 or the 562 xp. I'm not looking at stihls mainly because my guy that services all my stuff is a husqvarna dealer. Is the extra $100 worth it for the xp? I tend to subscribe to the theory that you buy big and quality once so it lasts you. I'm leaning towards the xp because of this but I'm wondering if there is a significant difference between the two.
There is a noticeable difference. I wouldn't say it is huge but noticeable nonetheless. I will on occasion bog my 455 Rancher down if I get to wild with my depth rakers. Any XP saw I have ever used tends to have enough power to pull bigger chips/ribbons without bogging down.
 
i think you would be happy with either, great reviews on both saws. according to Husqvarna site difference looks like .4hp and revboost on the 562xp, of course that is close to 10% hp increase. they do differ in max bar length, 555 = 20" max and 562xp = 28" max
 
Stihl MS 390 which is 64cc with a 20" bar.
I've got this setup as well, and recommend it highly. The MS 390 has been phased out of Stihl's production in favor of the 391, which is a slightly more powerful, cleaner running saw, so you might be able to pick up a user MS 390 for a good price. Really, any of the 3xx saws would be a good match for a 20" bar.
 
I'm leaning towards the xp because of this but I'm wondering if there is a significant difference between the two.

I believe there is enough difference between the xp and rancher series to spend more cash on the xp. I'm not taking anything away from the ranchers, they are good saws, especially for the price.
But, the xp uses professional grade engine parts with higher grades of steel.
 
I have a 562Xp with a 20" and 28" bar. The 28" bar is for occasional use on those extra big pieces...like the white oak in my profile pic....pulls just fine fully buried.
 
562XP. I believe there are a few differences that can be easily changed on the 555 to turn it into a 562, but for the extra $100 I'd prefer to buy a saw I didn't have to take apart and modify.
 
I think that a 555/18" would be about as good an all-around saw as you're likely to find. If you routinely need more bar length than that, then I'd probably jump up to the 70cc class, with the understanding that you will have a less versatile, less pleasant saw as a result; those extra pounds weigh on you after a few hours!

Agreed! A 50cc saw is the general purpose champ (assuming it's a decent adult saw, of course, meaning, it's not purple or neon green), and if you need bigger, you don't just put a bigger bar on it, you get a bigger saw.

Unless you are logging big cedars in the Pacific Northwest, or 100' cottonwoods in Nebraska, most of us won't need anything bigger than 70-80ccs.
 
I believe there are a few differences that can be easily changed on the 555 to turn it into a 562

Not really, ... the pistons, rods, bearings, and liners are made of higher grade, longer lasting materials in the XP line
 
Not really, ... the pistons, rods, bearings, and liners are made of higher grade, longer lasting materials in the XP line

Yeah I'm not sure that's true at all. From what I can remember, a few people on another forum had tore them down to find the same parts, including internals.
 
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