Looking for an Excellent Pellet Boiler Dealer and Installer

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WKB in addition to Marc Caluwe/Windhager in Billerica, google "New Day Energy". They have offices in southern NH and MA and are very familar with MA regs and incentive programs.

Thanks for the info Chris. I will look into it. Patti
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D._B._Cooper
I don't get the connection, but I'm not the hippest guy around.
It might be related to the fact that you responded to a two year old thread.

I attribute the lack of participation of other Windhager users to the fact they just work.

Maybe yours is too small for the heat load-you can't get blood from a stone. Those underground lines can suck away some heat.

Thanks Velvetfoot. Didn't notice the date! The heatload could be it, although I think we calculated it properly. I figured that if the water temperature LEAVING the shop to go to the house is 160 and it is ALSO 160 RETURNING to the shop from the house, that I must not be pulling much heat off of the water that is going through the system, thus, I figured I have ample heat there if I want to turn the thermostat up higher. My concerns or questions are:
1) Why isn't the water in the storage tank getting up to 180 since the water temperature in the boiler is reaching that? (but that may have something to do with this special part I need to enable the thermocoupler inside the water storage tank to 'communicate' with the boiler....at least that is what I am HOPING the problem is...) and,

2) I don't know why I am burning so many pellets- ESPECIALLY when the water temperatures going to and from the shop are the same. If I am not calling for heat in the house, then the boiler should be modulating down and staying in "Standby" (which it DOES until it reaches the low limit I have set which is 160) instead of constantly restarting and heating the water in the boiler to 180, which is the maximum I have it set to. To me, it seems like there is some kind of 'break' in the communication between the boiler and the storage tank because the water in the storage tank has NEVER gone above 160- regardless of how we have it plumbed- with the water going directly from the boiler into the storage tank, or, as it is currently plumbed, with the water that is returning from the house going into the storage tank. (I hope I am explaining myself clearly....I know very little about HVAC stuff...but I'm trying!!:))

Here's 'hoping' that one little part will resolve these issues because a few guys that live near me who have Woodpeckers are heating comparable size/insulated houses to 72 degrees or so, as well as their domestic hot water, and they are using less than half of what I am burning. We even burn the same pellets and one of the guys who has a Woodpecker is an engineer who does all the technical work and programs these things, so he has a fairly good grasp of how it runs. I'll let you know how things turn out once I get the low down on the part...locate it and install it.
Thanks for your input!
Patti
 
There are a few things sticking out, and we are kind of light on details.

-I don't think storage will do much good or serve much purpose if it is between the house return & boiler. It should be fed directly by the boiler, then the house fed by storage.
-House supply = house return = 160 also does not seem right. There should be a temp drop when the house is heating. But I would also expect to see some just from heat loss in the underground piping, even if only a degree or two.
-Boiler at 180 should heat storage to 180. If fed directly.

How are you measuring temperatures? Piping schematic? Pictures?

I think the heat is being distributed in the house by infloor? So in & out temps of the infloor loops? Temp of the floor itself?

What exactly do you have for underground piping? 'Insulated pex' can mean anything from good stuff to terrible stuff. Size of piping?

Does the boiler have return temperature protection or a near boiler bypass loop? Exact temps where the water leaves the boiler & where it enters? Too much flow around a bypass might explain storage not getting hotter - but it won't get hot now anyway with the storage being fed by house return water, if I read that part right. Does the line to the house run 24/7 or on demand?

All for now...
 
There are a few things sticking out, and we are kind of light on details.

-I don't think storage will do much good or serve much purpose if it is between the house return & boiler. It should be fed directly by the boiler, then the house fed by storage.
-House supply = house return = 160 also does not seem right. There should be a temp drop when the house is heating. But I would also expect to see some just from heat loss in the underground piping, even if only a degree or two.
-Boiler at 180 should heat storage to 180. If fed directly.

How are you measuring temperatures? Piping schematic? Pictures?

I think the heat is being distributed in the house by infloor? So in & out temps of the infloor loops? Temp of the floor itself?

What exactly do you have for underground piping? 'Insulated pex' can mean anything from good stuff to terrible stuff. Size of piping?

Does the boiler have return temperature protection or a near boiler bypass loop? Exact temps where the water leaves the boiler & where it enters? Too much flow around a bypass might explain storage not getting hotter - but it won't get hot now anyway with the storage being fed by house return water, if I read that part right. Does the line to the house run 24/7 or on demand?

All for now...
Hi Maple-
I will pass all this by my plumber/installer to make sure I have the correct information and get back to you. Thanks! Patti
 
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