Looking for help designing wood shed

[LLigetfa]

If you go with the metal carport and want to close it in at times yet still be able to open it, there are several options. If you look at how they do it on greenhouses, they just lift the skirt. I haven't been able to find tyvek house wrap that isn't printed with some trade names on it, but if that doesn't bother you, you could use it and maybe turn it inside out. I would drive in a bunch of T-bar fence posts just inside the vertical supports with enough of a gap between them to roll up the tyvek. That way the tyvek is trapped between the supports and the posts when there isn't a wood stack there.

If you choose to use plywood, run two long horizontal strips, hinged at the top so they open like awnings. That way you can open them up a bit and still have protection from a sudden rain. The triangular gable end top sections I would hinge on the bottom and open inward. Doors I would put in the center of both gable ends and I'd keep a center aisle open for access and for air, stacking the wood the same direction as the ridgeline.

 

[JSJAC]

Here is my new wood shed 14 by 20 and 7-8 feet inside .

 

[raybonz]

Here is my new wood shed 14 by 20 and 7-8 feet inside .

Very nice job designing and building your wood shed! It looks great! The money spent building it is offset by the aggravation of blown off and ripped tarps and wet firewood...


Ray

 

[JSJAC]

last winter I spent sooo much time moving snow off of the wood piles. We had over 10 feet of snow. We also had a metal roof put on the house so I do not have to shovel the roof again

 

[crs7200]

My shelter is anchored to the ground with 3 foot long steel rods (4 rods per side) that are included in the price of the shelter. You can have them use mobile home anchors but it cost more. I don't know how much more, but more.

One more question, who manufactured that shelter?

Thanx,
Ray

T-N-T Carport here's the link. http://www.t-n-tcarports.com/

 

[bsruther]

That is a great looking wood shed. Very nice work.

 

[aandabooks]

8x24-8' at front sloping to 6' in the back. 10.5 cords if full to the rafters. $353 total cost w/green steel roof. Would have been cheaper if ashphalt roof would have been used.

 

[raybonz]

8x24-8' at front sloping to 6' in the back. 10.5 cords if full to the rafters. $353 total cost w/green steel roof. Would have been cheaper if ashphalt roof would have been used.

Very nice shelter! Do you have any problem with sway in the wind? I did something similar and had to brace the daylights out of it to get rid of the sway.. Been holding good so far but it cost me triple what yours cost.. Maybe because my rafters are 2x8x16' ? So far I am satisfied with mine..

great job!

Ray

 

[aandabooks]

Haven't seen any sway at all. 2x6 10' rafters with every 4th lagged to the 4x4. Rafters are all tied together with 6 runs of 2x4s. The posts are all 2 feet deep in concrete. I've watched it during a couple of windstorms, the big one a few months back with wind over 70 mph, and I can't detect any movement. When I finished it I thought that looks like a big wing just waiting to catch some wind.

 

[raybonz]

Haven't seen any sway at all. 2x6 10' rafters with every 4th lagged to the 4x4. Rafters are all tied together with 6 runs of 2x4s. The posts are all 2 feet deep in concrete. I've watched it during a couple of windstorms, the big one a few months back with wind over 70 mph, and I can't detect any movement. When I finished it I thought that looks like a big wing just waiting to catch some wind.

Sounds sturdy to me.. I also added hurricane ties which were inexpensive to the 2x6 rafters because of the "huge wing" look you mentioned lol.. Once you have the shelter you wonder how you ever managed your firewood before..

Great Job!

Ray

 

[LLigetfa]

$353 total cost w/green steel roof.

You should have spent a couple more bucks and built some overhang on the two sides or at least set the posts under the roof. The wood on the end has its ass hanging out.

 

[raybonz]

Haven't seen any sway at all. 2x6 10' rafters with every 4th lagged to the 4x4. Rafters are all tied together with 6 runs of 2x4s. The posts are all 2 feet deep in concrete. I've watched it during a couple of windstorms, the big one a few months back with wind over 70 mph, and I can't detect any movement. When I finished it I thought that looks like a big wing just waiting to catch some wind.

Here is the link to my shelter if you haven't seen it:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/25866/

Ray

 

[LLigetfa]

Here is the link to my shelter...

Looks like your stacking technique was a little schizoid like mine was before I realized you need to plan ahead for stock rotation. Now I lay it up so that I can stack the year-after-next wood without blocking access to next year's wood. Kinda like not painting yourself into a corner.

 

[raybonz]

Here is the link to my shelter...

Looks like your stacking technique was a little schizoid like mine was before I realized you need to plan ahead for stock rotation. Now I lay it up so that I can stack the year-after-next wood without blocking access to next year's wood. Kinda like not painting yourself into a corner.

What happened was I built the shelter with all that wood already in place.. Made the job harder to do as I had to sledge hammer some of the wood back so I could mount the posts and braces.. Would have been much easier with an empty floor! What I am doing is using the wood front to back so I can reload in the spring the opposite way.. I can access the wood from both front and back so it should work out OK.. I may close in the sides and just tarp the front and back so I get good airflow.. The location gets loads of wind front to back so it seasons reall well..

Ray

 

[Gooserider]

What I used on my shelter, that worked great for end walls, was a pair of 6'H x 8' L stockade fence panels... Put them up inside the other framing with the crossbeams on the outside, and they look OK, - not great but tolerable - and they give a nice solid wall that you can lean stacks against if you want, (though mine are bulging a bit w/ 5 rows against them)

This was also about as low cost a wall as I could find, I think the panels were on the order of $35 each - slightly less than a sheet of 3/4" exterior plywood, which was my original plan....

Gooserider

 

[aandabooks]

$353 total cost w/green steel roof.

You should have spent a couple more bucks and built some overhang on the two sides or at least set the posts under the roof. The wood on the end has its ass hanging out.

I should have sacrificed some of the 24' length from 4x4 to 4x4 and put the posts on the inside of the rafters. The steel comes in 3' wide pieces. 24' is a perfect 8 sheets. The steel for the roof was about half of what I put into it. A design flaw but since I plan to add another 16 feet worth of shed to that side in the coming year I'll correct for it then.

What is now seen in the pictures is the 25' x 6' x 4' row of unsplit rounds that I still have sitting outside. That is what the more shed will be for and so that I can have three years worth of wood at any one time under cover.

 

[raybonz]

What I used on my shelter, that worked great for end walls, was a pair of 6'H x 8' L stockade fence panels... Put them up inside the other framing with the crossbeams on the outside, and they look OK, - not great but tolerable - and they give a nice solid wall that you can lean stacks against if you want, (though mine are bulging a bit w/ 5 rows against them)

This was also about as low cost a wall as I could find, I think the panels were on the order of $35 each - slightly less than a sheet of 3/4" exterior plywood, which was my original plan....

Gooserider

I like that idea Gooserider! Not too expensive and easy to install... Thanx for the input on this.. Did you buy them at Lowes or HD? I would imagine pine would work ok for this and probably cheaper..

Ray

 

[Gooserider]

What I used on my shelter, that worked great for end walls, was a pair of 6'H x 8' L stockade fence panels... Put them up inside the other framing with the crossbeams on the outside, and they look OK, - not great but tolerable - and they give a nice solid wall that you can lean stacks against if you want, (though mine are bulging a bit w/ 5 rows against them)

This was also about as low cost a wall as I could find, I think the panels were on the order of $35 each - slightly less than a sheet of 3/4" exterior plywood, which was my original plan....

Gooserider

I like that idea Gooserider! Not too expensive and easy to install... Thanx for the input on this.. Did you buy them at Lowes or HD? I would imagine pine would work ok for this and probably cheaper..

Ray

I got them at Home Despot - where we live, it's a bit harder to get to a Slowes, otherwise I think both places carry them, and have about the same quality... I'm pretty sure the ones I got were pine, which ever they were, they were the lower of the two price alternatives, and were not pressure treated.

Gooserider

 

[ecrane99]

This shelter keeps me dry when loading and holds 2 weeks of wood.

 

[raybonz]

Nice beefy looking wood shelter you built there!

Ray

 

[Der Fuirmeister]

I was able to get some free scrap 2 inch schedule 40 pipe which I plan to weld together similar to a good friend's wood shed I worked on years ago. It'll have a large opening in front so I can back a trailer full of wood in (or a tractor loader bucket). It'll be sized so that I'll have two years worth of wood (12 full cords). 6 cords on each side. The pipe is galvanized...... no rust termites or insects. Sloped roof joists and plywood roof sheathing with metal roofing on top (free - left over after a storm blew down my barn). It will not blow over in anything short of a tornado (I've been through that before). There are removeable pipes front and back which will support the wood making it easier to get at the wood from both sides. And so I won't need to cross stack the ends. I have enough steel sheet so I could add siding. If I do that I'll and hang it so it's removable so it can be covered before winter. I suppose you could put it on concrete, but I plan on a crushed limestone base (easier / cheaper). No need to worry about frost... it will float on the stone and be held down by the wood.

The shed is planned for next year and I have all the materials. I really liked the one my friend had. It was very easy to work out of and I believe in the old moto.....if it works, don't fix it.

Unless another tornado comes along it should last longer than I will.........