I just purchased this older wood-fired boiler to get me through this winter. I'll be augmenting my system with more modern and efficient equipment in the coming years. In the meantime, it would be handy to scare up some documentation on this unit. Does anyone recognize the brand and model of this furnace? There is no plate nor any markings. Thanks for your time.
Looking for help to ID older wood boiler
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I sure don't recognize it, at least not yet. Some pics of the door, inside and grates might help.
If you don't get any ID, just go over to the wood shed and try to learn how to burn as efficiently as you can with what looks like a pretty typical older woodburner.
If you don't get any ID, just go over to the wood shed and try to learn how to burn as efficiently as you can with what looks like a pretty typical older woodburner.
Thanks for the fast reply - yeah, I'm imagining I'll need to be pretty careful to be conservative in my burning with that thing. Here are additional pictures. If anyone wants to see any detail closer-up, I have lots. Thanks again for looking.
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Maybe some pictures of the front with the doors? If there's a big cast in name we got it, lol. That grate, if that is what it is sure looks unusual. Could you open the loading door & take a picture through there? Randy Hopefully you don't load that thing through the top!
I think it does load from the top! I didn't realize I WAS looking at the door.
It might be a one of a kind or a small manufacturer that put a few together. There's a lot less work that goes into designing a water tube boiler, especially one like that, than the typical water jacket.
I bet the little bastard will burn just fine once you figure out how it likes to operate.
It might be a one of a kind or a small manufacturer that put a few together. There's a lot less work that goes into designing a water tube boiler, especially one like that, than the typical water jacket.
I bet the little bastard will burn just fine once you figure out how it likes to operate.
I've seem just about every wood boiler, and never anything like that one!
Low water volume boilers like this one tend to overheat easily - only advice I can give is to use TWO PR values, put no valves between the boiler and these, and pipe them down to the floor and away from you......
Another idea would be to add some storage using a range boiler above it which could work by gravity (thermosyphon).
Low water volume boilers like this one tend to overheat easily - only advice I can give is to use TWO PR values, put no valves between the boiler and these, and pipe them down to the floor and away from you......
Another idea would be to add some storage using a range boiler above it which could work by gravity (thermosyphon).
Roger on the two PR valves. A very experienced plumber friend of mine has already said, with the low-volume boilers like that you are pretty much committed to having a pump going all the time (while fired) to help discourage overheating.
I get a vague idea of what you're talking about when I read:
"add some storage using a range boiler above it which could work by gravity (thermosyphon)"
Are there some articles or posts of diagrams that I can look at to get an idea of this setup? I like the sound of 'gravity (thermosyphon)' because that sounds like it can maintain some sort of operation without power.
Thanks for taking the time to make your observations.
I get a vague idea of what you're talking about when I read:
"add some storage using a range boiler above it which could work by gravity (thermosyphon)"
Are there some articles or posts of diagrams that I can look at to get an idea of this setup? I like the sound of 'gravity (thermosyphon)' because that sounds like it can maintain some sort of operation without power.
Thanks for taking the time to make your observations.
Download the instructions on the Yukon-eagle hotrod.
I think this mentions and shows a thermosyphon loop - yes, done right it is additional safety for power failures, etc.
http://www.yukon-eagle.com/FURNACES/THEHOTRODWATERHEATER/tabid/61/Default.aspx
Other options for power failures and relief of heat in general involve leaving one of the check values to a house zone open all the time in the cold weather - which allows for some heat (in some cases) to circ through the house even without power.
Another backup is the use of a small circ on one zone - which is plugged into computer backup battery thingy.....this would turn on when the power goes out - automatically.
I think this mentions and shows a thermosyphon loop - yes, done right it is additional safety for power failures, etc.
http://www.yukon-eagle.com/FURNACES/THEHOTRODWATERHEATER/tabid/61/Default.aspx
Other options for power failures and relief of heat in general involve leaving one of the check values to a house zone open all the time in the cold weather - which allows for some heat (in some cases) to circ through the house even without power.
Another backup is the use of a small circ on one zone - which is plugged into computer backup battery thingy.....this would turn on when the power goes out - automatically.
I think it's a coal boiler because if you open the top while burning wood you are then looking right at your "chimney". Good luck, Randy
I'm pretty sure it's a wood boiler - the grates look too thin for coal. Indeed, top loaders do give concern regarding smoke but, I believe (hope) when the column of heated smoke gasses has started it's flow up the chimney, that will be the prevalent exit when the door is opened for wood feeding. I'll report back here when I gain some experience. I believe I can set a low-water feed valve to this boiler the way my oil-fired boiler has it's water feed but, I'm sure someone with more experience than I can give more information on that one.
I got money that says smoke is coming right out that top door, lol. It appears that there is a continuous wrapped water coil inside? That sure would seem to be a steam boiler in that case. Also the coil if thats what it is, isn't protected from throwing wood in this & that is part of the reason I thought it might be a coal steam boiler. Good luck, you should be able to get some heat out of this, Randy
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