Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by raderator, Dec 3, 2010.
thought we were talkin good and cheap.
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I missed that. But he has never answered any of my questions. Even by PM.
Just ordered the 17-VL from their yahoo store. Gonna order single-wall stovepipes from from Dynamitebuys, stainless steel, $82.
The thing that finally convinced me (after seeing the Amesti price drop to $499, + tax, no tax credit tho) was looking at a Scan at a local store for $2300 + $200 delivery + tax. The firebox on it looked very much like the 17-VL.
BTW, they said only 20% of people use double-walled stovepipe on the $2K stoves they sell.
Great. And order the pipe heat shielding too. The percentage of people ordering double wall pipe from them has absolutely nothing to do with your installation. You have a double-wall setup.
Logs really aren't likely to roll out of these things because you kinda have to parallel park them in since the opening is not as wide as the firebox. Still not sure if these pipes will fit. Maybe I'll just order the adapter and then get the pipe later.
The adapter seems to have a stepped top so should fit the 8" chimney pipe. The bottom pipe is going to be a tight fit since the opening in the stove is exactly 6", no more. Might have to sand the edge off it and use some graphite, or get a tapered adapter.
Looks like Ventingpipe was wrong. Those are not stainless but 24 gage galvanized.
This 22 gage Selkirk Heat-fab stuff looks much better, 5 yr warranty:
BTW, I found out that the ring thing won't work on existing construction, which is why I'm back to single pipe.
Thought I'd let you guys know that the Amesti N380 is on clearance at my local Lowes for $399. I picked one up. $150 cheaper than a 17VL from overstockstoves.com and it looks quite rugged in build quality with the exception of the kinda flimsy door. If the door becomes an issue I can always either fabricate a new one or weld some supports on it. Not sure if I'm a fan of the removeable handle either. It's quite hard to push in hard enough to the door to grab the pin and then turn the handle without the handle coming out of it's mounting hole (the hole only goes half way through the "nut" on the door). I may drill the rest of the way through that "nut" so I can get more of the handle's end in the hole. We'll see. I'm also hoping that once we hook it up and use it a few times the gasket will seat in and it will close easier. I could also shim the latch if I need to...oh the options.
It is a nice looking stove though. Weight on the box says 215lbs btw so 170lbs must be without brick and door etc.
I started a new thread for anyone interested in this stove: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/73535/
Jotul still does it, at least on the 602. I checked one out earlier and they have a stepped baffle for introducing secondary air. Only two steps instead of the three on this one though. Not sure if it makes a difference or not.
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