It would be no big deal to add it in the future. It's something you could do if you think you need it. But I really doubt you will see any difference at all.
looking over work order for Ashford
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HotCoals
Minister of Fire
Use the money to buy some OAK firewood.
Highbeam is right though if you have a smaller house that is really tight and have exhaust fans running ,that can lead to back draft problems with the stove. Stack effect can come into play also..Florida bungalow deal in warmer shoulder season weather could happen faster.
Highbeam is right though if you have a smaller house that is really tight and have exhaust fans running ,that can lead to back draft problems with the stove. Stack effect can come into play also..Florida bungalow deal in warmer shoulder season weather could happen faster.
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It really depends on the house construction and sealing. One way to check is if you open a nearby window a little bit. We have a window right next to our corner installed stove. I have tried cracking the window open under all sorts of conditions and found no change in the way the stove burned. Conclusion, an OAK would do little to change our stove operation. This is because we have an old farmhouse that is not tight. Your mileage may vary.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Ah but stove operation is just one of the benefits. You are also get to keep your conditioned room air instead of exchanging it for cold, dry outside air. My house, on the wet side of WA, hangs for weeks on end with the hygrometer (humidity meter) bottomed out at 16%. I want the humidity to stay. Drafts, comfort, all better with OAK.
Outside air here is wet in the winter, not dry. "our house rarely drops below 35% humidity and more often is like 45% or higher ". No drafts either when the stove is running. Fix the source of the drafts if there are any.
I'm sticking with John Gulland's testing and pov. Outside air has it's place is very tight houses and in some negative pressure locations. In our house, it is not justified. Our stove does not have a direct connect OAK, which means the OAK connection is similar to a passive vent. It just dumps cold air near the primary and secondary stove intakes.
http://www.woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html
I'm sticking with John Gulland's testing and pov. Outside air has it's place is very tight houses and in some negative pressure locations. In our house, it is not justified. Our stove does not have a direct connect OAK, which means the OAK connection is similar to a passive vent. It just dumps cold air near the primary and secondary stove intakes.
http://www.woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html
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Grisu
Minister of Fire
With that low humidity you have bigger problems than just the stove pulling in cold air. In your case putting in an OAK is like putting a band-aid on a gashing wound. The whole house needs to be better air-sealed.
Could be the house interior is being heated much hotter than we keep it. Our normal interior temps are around 72F and our normal outdoor Dec temps are in the low to mid 30s for about a 40F differential. Normal outdoor humidity at that time is between 90 and 100%. Or maybe the hygrometer is not reading accurately.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I don't know, I'll have to do some investigating. Doors shrink/swell and wood floor cracks open up depending on time of year.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
My two cents on the OAK. 15 years ago I installed a King in my 1895 Craftsman home. As a NASCAR/NHRA/Football fan I spend some time laying on the floor in front of my King watching television programs covering these topics.
For the first 10 years, I kept trying to find the source of the cold air drafting across the floor, across me and into the corner of the room. The R-Value in my home is surely ZERO or close to it.
Then, I got off my lazy butt and added a OAK to my King 5 years ago. Amazingly, the cold air ceased! It seems my stove was pulling air towards the stove when burning and that was the air I felt at times. (Usually during high burns).
Then I thought it through a bit and decided why should I use air my precious wood just heated in order to have air for combustion...why not fresh air? The stove is designed to direct connect, warm the air before it enters the firebox and provide plenty of air at that. My homes design allows me to keep the air inlet well below the bottom of the firebox and also 30" above soil grade outside. (And we never get much snow)
I can say I have used less cordwood in years burning cordwood and fewer NIELS in recent years. So, these are only my observations, but I think while a fresh air kit is not mandatory in most applications...why not? They are cheap, easy to install and in my experience, better all the way around.
OK I have to go...in Minnesota visiting dealers.
Chris
For the first 10 years, I kept trying to find the source of the cold air drafting across the floor, across me and into the corner of the room. The R-Value in my home is surely ZERO or close to it.
Then, I got off my lazy butt and added a OAK to my King 5 years ago. Amazingly, the cold air ceased! It seems my stove was pulling air towards the stove when burning and that was the air I felt at times. (Usually during high burns).
Then I thought it through a bit and decided why should I use air my precious wood just heated in order to have air for combustion...why not fresh air? The stove is designed to direct connect, warm the air before it enters the firebox and provide plenty of air at that. My homes design allows me to keep the air inlet well below the bottom of the firebox and also 30" above soil grade outside. (And we never get much snow)
I can say I have used less cordwood in years burning cordwood and fewer NIELS in recent years. So, these are only my observations, but I think while a fresh air kit is not mandatory in most applications...why not? They are cheap, easy to install and in my experience, better all the way around.
OK I have to go...in Minnesota visiting dealers.
Chris
Sounds like the real issue is that the house is leaky and drafty. Time for some sealing and insulation.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Most houses are leaky and drafty. So you want OAK.
Make the house tight as a drum... you need an OAK.
Hmmm.
Most houses are leaky and drafty? I hope not. There is a lot of middle ground in between the extremes. Our leaks are mostly from the ceiling I guess for our old house is certainly not tight as a drum, but no drafts on the floors after addressing them 7 yrs ago.
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More info to ponder on. 15 cfm max seems to be not much to worry about. I'm not sure it qualifies as much of a draft.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/how-provide-makeup-air-wood-stove
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/how-provide-makeup-air-wood-stove
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BKVP
Minister of Fire
No doubt! However, both tightening up the house and the OAK as Highbeam suggests makes great sense.
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
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