Loonger Bar, Narrow Kerf Chain

[Mass. Wine Guy]

My saw can take bars from 15 to 18 inches long. It now has a 16 inch bar on it. Does installing a longer bar diminish the power output of a saw? Also, what's the story on narrow kerf chains? Are they faster/better than regular width chains?

Thanks.

 

[smokinj]

Yes the longer the bar the less power you will have but a narrower kerf is a game change-er, but a long bar with say .043 seen to be a little thin you also have to worry about the chain breaking.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I was thinking more of a .50 chain, instead of the 0.58 that's standard on my saw. Maybe I'll just keep what I have now.

Thanks.

 

[smokinj]

I was thinking more of a .50 chain, instead of the 0.58 that's standard on my saw. Maybe I'll just keep what I have now.

Thanks.

I run .063- 3/8 on my 880 41in. bar, so your on the right track what saw you have?

 

[Slow1]

Ok ... so please those in the know, explain more here. If I were to take and somehow reduce the kerf what are the costs/benefits? I realize it will obviously make a more narrow cut, but what is the down side of this? I imagine there must be a reason that manufacturers choose certain default configurations.

What all is required to make such a swap? I imagine it would require a new bar, chain of course, but would you also have to replace the sprocket?

 

[smokinj]

Ok ... so please those in the know, explain more here. If I were to take and somehow reduce the kerf what are the costs/benefits? I realize it will obviously make a more narrow cut, but what is the down side of this? I imagine there must be a reason that manufacturers choose certain default configurations.

What all is required to make such a swap? I imagine it would require a new bar, chain of course, but would you also have to replace the sprocket?

just depends where your at now and what your trying to go to. For example there are people milling with a stihl 880 122cc saw runing 3/8 low profile .050 and doing very well with it. Some saws just work better with smallier chains. Normally all you need is bar chain and new sprocket.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

My saw is a Jonsered 535 with about a 51 cc output. It's got a 16 inch bar on now and the same chain as when I bought it in 1994. When I took it to a shop to get it machine sharpened they said it still looked ok, but I wouldn't mind a full chisel chain.

 

[smokinj]

My saw is a Jonsered 535 with about a 51 cc output. It's got a 16 inch bar on now and the same chain as when I bought it in 1994. When I took it to a shop to get it machine sharpened they said it still looked ok, but I wouldn't mind a full chisel chain.

wow if your getting that kind of milage I would not change a thing!

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I don't use the saw all year round. I definitely saw that a few rakers were very low. Don't know if this makes a lot of difference.

 

[Jags]

I don't use the saw all year round. I definitely saw that a few rakers were very low. Don't know if this makes a lot of difference.

The rakers were more than likely filed during your chain sharpening. I would run your standard setup with a full chisel chain. Narrow chains won't take the abuse that the heavier chains will. Keep in mind that a full chisel is a different game than the anti-kickback stuff. You need to be EXTRA careful. Also, it takes a little more power to pull, so that may enter into your decision.