1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

Loose chain

Post in 'The Gear' started by PapaDave, Oct 8, 2012.

  1. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    So, I finally put a new bar on (same as the old bar), and after a couple of cuts, this is what happens. WTH?
    The adjusting screw won't go any tighter, so I'm wondering if the chain might be stretched. Does that even happen? Sprocket is worn...could that cause this?
    I can pull the bar out and get it tight, but it keeps loosening. Very frustrating when in the woods.
    Any help is appreciated.

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. Thistle

    Thistle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Messages:
    4,206
    Loc:
    Central IA
    Is it a brand new chain also? Its not unusual for them to need tightening at least once the first few hours of operation.
  3. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    Nope, the chain is about a year old...I think. It's got a lot of tooth left, but if a new one will fix this, I'm getting a new one.==c
  4. osagebow

    osagebow Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Messages:
    1,426
    Loc:
    Shenandoah Valley, VA
    Had a similar problem on my husky 350 - the tensioner tab was worn. It tightened up fine but would work itself out from the stress of cutting. Cheap and easy to replace if that's it.
    smokinj likes this.
  5. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    Would be.......? Is that the tapered pin that fits in the bar? Doesn't look worn to me.
  6. osagebow

    osagebow Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Messages:
    1,426
    Loc:
    Shenandoah Valley, VA
    Yeah, (tab is my word, not "official" lol) mine was worn pretty good. The threads under it - -are they stripped out? that happened on my 'Vile thing" poulan
    smokinj likes this.
  7. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Make 110% sure that the tensioner is engaging the bar fully. I'm not picturing the Husky setup in my head very well right now but if it's a front mounted tensioner (screw is tucked in tight next to the bar) then it might be possible your missing something that holds the tensioner in it's groove? Older Stihls had a small plastic piece that kept the rear of the tensioner in place and if it was missing the bar would tighten up just fine but often slip loose while cutting.
  8. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    I'll take a look again. Didn't notice anything, but I wasn't looking for that either.
    Tomorrow's another day.
  9. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,170
    Loc:
    West Michigan
    'bout time for new saw isn't it Dave?;)
    MasterMech likes this.
  10. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    Funny guy.:p
    Dang thing's not even 6 years old. Original bar until a couple days ago, and one new chain.
    40-50 cord cut. It's just getting started, isn't it?:cool:
    I would however, love a 362. ;)
  11. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,170
    Loc:
    West Michigan

    Make you a deal, I've got an 034 super you can have. You pay my gas to run it up there, I'll bring my saws & help you cut for a weekend & leave the old girl for ya. Run it for a couple days, & you'll never go back.;lol A C

    Edit: Yes, I really need a cheap vacation.:oops:
  12. bogydave

    bogydave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Messages:
    8,426
    Loc:
    So Cent ALASKA
    Chains stretch. Usually not more than a bar adj. can compensate for though.
    What type & brand of chain?

    "I can pull the bar out and get it tight, but it keeps loosening." : Hints to the adj screw being stripped<>

    I think Oregon makes the bars for Husqy's

    My bar might be the same as yours, 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge - 72 drive links.
    I use the Oregon chain 72LGX-72 ,72LPX-72 or Stihl 33RS-72 , all are 3/8 pitch - .050 gauge round chisel.
    Not found at box stores, Oregon or Stihl dealers, about $22

    Not a bad idea to change the "Rim" , drive sprocket, since your bar needed replace, I bet it's due too.
    If it has the drive sprocket type, you can get a kit to change over the the "rim" type. It's better.
    Did that on my old 1982 Husq 61 rancher, it's still going, a back up saw now.

    A little TLC & it will last for decades :)
  13. blades

    blades Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2008
    Messages:
    1,658
    Loc:
    WI, Milw
    Chains do stretch, but if its that much you would be better off to acquire a new chain.( got to be a lot of wear in the links, accident waiting to happen) the new bar should have numbers on it that say the number of drive links ( kind of a pain to read on some as it is contained in the bar # id others plain as day) so look for that and count the # of drive links in your chain. Not all x length bars take the same # drive links. One of my old bars is listed as 84 drive links, but is so worn( been dressed a coulple times also) that a 84 link chain will not tension( needs 80or82 I marked the bar to that effect). So of course when I installed a new bar chains too short. Not a big deal to me as I make my own up from bulk rolls.
  14. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    Thanks guys.
    Dave, yep, same chain. Sprocket could be changed too, ....it's worn.
    The adjuster will still adjust, but I'll take a look at it anyway.
    If I change to the "rim", this looks like the one....http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF 513470&catID=.
    I can get a chain made at the hardware for about $15, if needed.
  15. osagebow

    osagebow Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Messages:
    1,426
    Loc:
    Shenandoah Valley, VA
    On a side note - does switching to a rim change chain size?
  16. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2008
    Messages:
    15,972
    Loc:
    Anderson, Indiana

    I fix one just like that. It would tighten but nuder a load would slip in the strip out section of the bolt! New bolt good to go.
  17. bogydave

    bogydave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Messages:
    8,426
    Loc:
    So Cent ALASKA
    No
    All tough, if you change the bar to a different pitch & gauge then the rim/sprocket must match the bar pitch & gauge.

    You might have just nailed it. Well under a load not nuder a load. (spel ck gest mi typos )LOL :)
    osagebow likes this.
  18. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Messages:
    27,815
    Loc:
    Michigan
    Dave, don't forget you can take a link out of the chain. But it sounds as if the threads are stripped. For sure if that sprocket is worn, change it.
  19. bogydave

    bogydave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Messages:
    8,426
    Loc:
    So Cent ALASKA
    The beauty of the rim type, is you can buy an extra rim or 2 & have them & change it without changing the clutch.

    Read somewhere when you change the chain, the rim should be changed too.
    I didn't do that, I'm on my 2nd chain with the 359 & it's getting close to being used up with the original rim.

    Good Thread, reminds me I should get a rim (2 so to have a spare) & replace mine. Better to do it while it's still working than have it
    quit working when out cutting.
  20. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    Ok, here's the deal.
    Took off the sprocket. 1009121734.jpg
    Teeth are worn. Duh. 1009121734b.jpg
    I'll be on Youtube to get a handle on this, but looks pretty straight-forward to replace.
    Forgot to mention that I also took apart the adjuster and everything looks ok. Gears are fine, but the adjuster bottoms out and the chain is still slack. Can't even pull the bar tight enough.
    Perhaps I'm doing something wrong?
    Should have taken pics....I can do that if it would help. I have a feeling some of youse guys:cool: have seen that already.
  21. bogydave

    bogydave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Messages:
    8,426
    Loc:
    So Cent ALASKA
    Looks like my old one. I replaced with the rim type. Mine was worn a little worse.

    Did you lay the new & old bar side by side & are the same?
    New chain or old chain won't get tight?
    Count the drive links on the chain, should have 72. It's possible that when the chain was made it has an extra link.
    I have one with an extra link on my 14", it's ok now, but am near the end of adjustment with it & it's almost new.
    If old chain, remove a drive link or a new chain. I vote replace with a new chain.
    Could be too, the old chain is just stretched that much.
    You are on the right track & seem to be doing it right. Some new parts & I think you'll be good to go.

    Same learning experience I had when I had bar, chain & drive sprocket problem.
    If I can fix it, anyone can. Utube, new parts & the saw gurus here got me thru it.
  22. PapaDave

    PapaDave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2008
    Messages:
    5,740
    Loc:
    Northern MI - in the mitten
    Thanks again Dave.
    The new-er chain that's on there now was fine when I first put it on (whenever that was), but now gets loose and slips off the bar (even the new one:mad: ), so I'm thinking a new rim sprocket, and maybe a new chain too. If the local hardware doesn't have anything, I'll order online. Bailey's has the rim sprocket for $21.
    After watching a couple (or a whole bunch) vids, I now realize the rim sprocket can be replaced w/o doing the whole thing and should be less $$$. Good thing.
  23. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,170
    Loc:
    West Michigan
    Dave, that sprocket is toast, but I'm not sure that's the whole problem. As BD said, check the number of drive links in your chain, & look at them closely, that sprocket may have damaged them. Another option may be an 8 pin rim to go with the older chains, it's a bit larger diameter & will take up a link's worth of slack. You'll get a little more chain speed, but sacrifice some power. A C
  24. bogydave

    bogydave Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Messages:
    8,426
    Loc:
    So Cent ALASKA
    Slipping off the bar is a prime sign the sprocket is bad.
    The sprocket gets worn & doesn't align with the grove in the bar, the chain jumps off . Mine did that several time & I didn't know i had a problem until I' was where you are now. Worn sprocket & a new bar.
    Then a new rim sprocket kit, & a new chain. Oregon dealer said the badly groved sprocket screwed up the chain's drive links. Was my first chisel chain & now that's all I use.
    After all that, I started researching getting a new saw. About 8 months later I got the 359.
    Same 20" bar, chain etc.
    Of course my saw was a 1982 husqy 61 with a few missing parts & a broken chain brake.. A few years older than yours.
    Still runs fine but the 359 is lighter & starts easy & idles.

    If I started looking today, I'd look hard at the 562xp, may sell a few cords of wood to help pay for it. It looks cool & specs out high on my list.
    4.7 hp & 12.7 lbs ;)
    http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/professional-chainsaws/562-xp/
  25. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    I wouldn't do an 8 pin rim on a 455, just not enough saw there to pull 20" on a 8 pin. The sprocket pictured was done a long time ago. Once you see the grooves start to the left and the right of where the drive link contacts the sprocket, the sprocket is cooked.

    If you're running an old chain that has stretched to the point of not having enough adjustment to compensate, I'm not sure I'd trust that chain in the wood. There should be no discernable movement in the rivet joints other than rotation. If you can compress/strech the chain, junk it. It's not worth having it break and come flying out of the saw doing 45-50 MPH for your legs.

    You want rim sprocket nirvana? Saws that have inboard clutches, I can swap rims in mere seconds compared to having to remove the clutch on an outboard clutch setup. Don't need any special tools other than what's always on my belt (Leatherman) or what I normally carry in the woods. (scrench and small screwdriver)
    Nixon and PapaDave like this.

Share This Page