Lopi Answer Insert

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dakotarnk

Member
Aug 30, 2007
42
I have perchased a Lopi Answer insert. It is a used unit. When did lopi
began building the Answer and are all of them epa rated? I am not sure how old
this is and am trying to find out a year. Also can I hook that up to a 8" air cooled
chimney, I know the right way to do it would be with a liner but I never do aything
the right way! There must be an adapter that would connect that o an 8"?
 
Welcome to the hearth

Unfortunately I can't advise of making wrong way installations. I'll leave that up to some other fool to make suggestions

But I can tell you the right way, if you care to do things right?
 
What would be the cheapest and easiest way to do this right.
I was told that I could hook this to an 8" but I may have a slight performance issue.
I do beleive that code allows me to hook it to an eight inch. Another question I have
is about insulating this when I install it in a zero clearnce fireplace. Does the insulation
lay on the stove. I really am very new at this but I know I can install this myself.
 
Code does not allow you to hook up to an 8" air cooled chimney. I'm assuming you mean an air cooled chimney like that hooked to a prefab fireplace like a Majestic. The chimney's like the Majestic are not tolerant of the 2100 degree temps that are required for a wood stove. You probably need to put a liner into the 8" in order to not only meet code, but to be safe.

A little more info on the 8" would help. If the 8" is a 2100 degree chimney, then you may be able to use a 6"-8" adapter and you're likely done.
 
I bought a Lopi Answer insert back in 1995, so they have been around for awhile. Good little heater if you have the blower. Is there a metal UL label on the back of the stove? If so, it should have the model and serial numbers that might give a date.

You can find 6" liner kits for $300-$400 on E-bay or internet retailers like Hart's Hearth and The Chimney Store.
 
The chimney is for a open air fireplace. Not sure of max temp. It is not insulated but meerly one pipe on the outside of another.
The chase is indoors on one end of a room.
 
dakotarnk said:
The chimney is for a open air fireplace. Not sure of max temp. It is not insulated but meerly one pipe on the outside of another.
The chase is indoors on one end of a room.

You need to put a liner in. Don't run that with out a liner.
 
With the chase being inside the house do I need to insulate this liner. The other thought I had is maybe I could just use black stove pipe to line it. It is a straight chimney so I would have no corneres to work around.
 
dakotarnk - Ummmmm.....please heed the advice of elk, warren and the rest when it comes to stack installs and clearance to combustible. We don't like to read about forum members in the news the next day. Really, the stack, proper clearances and having a proper frame of mind cannot be substituted in the world of safe burning. The stack is really no place for duct tape and bubble gum. Your safety depends on that thing to do its job, no questions.

This is not a scolding, but many people simply do not understand how DANG important the stack is in your wood heating system. And thats not to mention the benefits a proper stack will have in the performance of your stove.

I promise, I will get off the soap box now.

Happy burning, and welcome to the forum.
 
Hello Dakotarnk, I was going to do the same as you. But after the help and info I received I went with a new class A chimney. I was able to get it for $57.00 for 3' stainless and sure glad I did. You will sleep better at night not having to worry about the chimney.
Don
 
question?? is the lopi answer rated for ZC? or masonary only? is the "fireplace" a zero clearance?


EDIT , re-read, this is a ZC fireplace , if this unit was not tested and rated for that fireplace you cannot install it , the flue at that point wouldnt matter , also , with this being a ZC , that flue is not , repeat not 2100 degree rated, if this unit isnt ZC rated you could be taking a horrible risk. many zero clearance fireplaces cannot support the weight of a lot of inserts, also , unless you built the house, you may not know what is supporting the fireplace and what kind of load it can take , these things were built to support themselves and a load of wood at temperature, not necessarily a 300 plus pound insert.

please do some research not only with the insert you have but the fireplace and its supporting structure before proceeding!!!
 
stoveguy2esw said:
...many zero clearance fireplaces cannot support the weight of a lot of inserts, also , unless you built the house, you may not know what is supporting the fireplace and what kind of load it can take , these things were built to support themselves and a load of wood at temperature, not necessarily a 300 plus pound insert.

please do some research not only with the insert you have but the fireplace and its supporting structure before proceeding!!!

A valid concern for all inserts Mike, even in masonry fireplaces. I kinda expected for 20 years to end up with a 650 pound steel box with sixty pounds of burning wood in it to end up in my basement someday. One floor below where it started out. In fact if it happened it would land on top of 300 pounds of cast iron stove with thirty pounds of burning wood in it that sits in the basement directly under it.

"Hello Allstate? You ain't gonna believe this but..."
 
Let me put to you this way, After a night that started out bidie birdie eagel, this is the happiest mood you will catch me
After asking you if you want to install your stove safetly, you ask if it is ok to install a connector pipe all the way to the roof cap threw a ZC air filled chimney?
I have to ask do you value your own life or your familly's life? If not you want to cheap out thant much then I am wasting my time and all the other members are wasting their time
. Why preach safety when no one is home. Do you have a death wish? All advice you have received is dead on. Nobody here can help anyone that puts a price tag on personal safety?
What is your home or life worth? what about your familly members lives are theyworthless? your decisions put them in jepardy
You are bringing fire into your home Yet you have not even qualified the placement of the stove forget the chimney, all your suggestions are formulars for disaster. What is the clearance to combustibles behind that ancient pre fab fire place?If you don't know then you have no right asking member here to sanction hair brain installations
beyond that your chimeny fails UL 1777 listings for ul 103 ht With such lack of knowledge how do you know if your lopie insert is even safe for installation? Who has done a certified confition report on the stove the prefab situation and the chimney? As a nationally certified inspector I would require this info before issuing any permit.

Ps you caught me on my good night
 
BrotherBart said:
stoveguy2esw said:
...many zero clearance fireplaces cannot support the weight of a lot of inserts, also , unless you built the house, you may not know what is supporting the fireplace and what kind of load it can take , these things were built to support themselves and a load of wood at temperature, not necessarily a 300 plus pound insert.

please do some research not only with the insert you have but the fireplace and its supporting structure before proceeding!!!

A valid concern for all inserts Mike, even in masonry fireplaces. I kinda expected for 20 years to end up with a 650 pound steel box with sixty pounds of burning wood in it to end up in my basement someday. One floor below where it started out. In fact if it happened it would land on top of 300 pounds of cast iron stove with thirty pounds of burning wood in it that sits in the basement directly under it.

"Hello Allstate? You ain't gonna believe this but..."

maybe true BB but , when a brick fireplace is built , its properly foundaded for the weight , by proportion the added weight of an insert is minimal when compared proportionally to a ZC (which may only be supported by a coulle 2x4's at best, do you think that a ZC would have supported the sierra you had in that fireplace? 650 lbs is not uncommon for an insert of its era. granted the unit he has is undoubtably smaller and lighter than your sierra was, but think of it this way , you were thinking about it possibly collapsing with a foundated brick fireplace , this thing is going to have wood, not brick supporting it.

to our questioner , im going to step off the soapbox now , and ask that we all start over and see what we can do to give you some constructive options as to how you can make your dilemma work. i for one am willing to help, but we simply cannot proceed with an insert that is not ZC rated , so first thing , is the unit ZC rated? if not we need to start looking at other options , ones that will not include putting that insert in your fireplace , it simply is too dangerous , not to mention illegal if i am correct in what im thinking. we want to help all who come in here, some of us can be a bit blunt , but it isnt meant to be insulting , its meant to open eyes to the inherant dangers of a "jury rigged" install. lets see what we can come up with.
 
The Lopi Insert weighs 300 lbs, It is zc rated. The zc fireplace is not ancient but only a year old. At the time a the one member started bashing me I had already decided to use a liner. I should be applauded that I searched a correct and safe way to install it instead of being scrutinized that I ask question, Not every one in this world can be an expert at installing fireplaces. I chose to ressearch this before I just dove in and relied on a friends advice of how to install a chimney. I still wonder if I need to insulate the chimney since it is indoors, also do I need to insulate around the insert. Dont mean to be any trouble. I hope this doesnt set off the inspector, I cant believe how much He knows about my situation with out me even telling him. The insert is said to be in
good shape by a lopi dealer who wanted to trade it out of me, When I get big maybe I can be an inspector, It cant be that tough. I also Am not asking the inspector for a permit.
 
dakotarnk said:
The Lopi Insert weighs 300 lbs, It is zc rated. The zc fireplace is not ancient but only a year old. At the time a the one member started bashing me I had already decided to use a liner. I should be applauded that I searched a correct and safe way to install it instead of being scrutinized that I ask question, Not every one in this world can be an expert at installing fireplaces. I chose to ressearch this before I just dove in and relied on a friends advice of how to install a chimney. I still wonder if I need to insulate the chimney since it is indoors, also do I need to insulate around the insert. Dont mean to be any trouble. I hope this doesnt set off the inspector, I cant believe how much He knows about my situation with out me even telling him. The insert is said to be in
good shape by a lopi dealer who wanted to trade it out of me, When I get big maybe I can be an inspector, It cant be that tough. I also Am not asking the inspector for a permit.

Those answers help A LOT... That the insert is ZC rated means that you at least have the potential for doing a safe install. You do need to be sure that the stove is actually approved for your specific model of ZC fireplace though, as you go back to start if it isn't. There should also be a data plate on the stove that will say if it is EPA approved.

You definitely do NOT want to use stove pipe as a liner, it is unsafe and violates code.

You do want to use a proper UL listed Stainless Steel liner, which is safer and code compliant if installed properly. Insulation does two things for you, improved performance, and code compliance - since you said it was an inside chimney, the performance increase probably wouldn't be a big help, but you do need the insulation on most liners in order to meet their UL listing installation requirements, which your situation absolutely would require to be safe and meet code.

We may sound harsh at times, but wood burning can be a dangerous thing if not done right, and we don't want to see people getting hurt. Remember that most of the stuff you see in the codes is there because somebody died from doing it wrong...

Gooserider
 
No its not tough being an under paid inspector. First you have to establish documented experience in the field for 5 years. Then score better than 75% on the five test required to be a local inspector. The whole international code base, the one and two familly base code, plus the international use groups codes. After that, one has to pass the NFPA sprinkler code and NFPA fire alarm codes. That qualifies you to be a local inspector. To be a mechanical inspector, you face another battery of testing .To stay certified you must accumulate 45 contact hours within your appointment term. All that, then get hired by a town that pays you $30 per inspection and you drive your own car/truck.. But don't plan on making a living on 10 inspections this month, better have a decent full time job.

You never explained that your zc setup was 1 year old. What caused us to assume air cooled chimneys are not common , most were used 15 years ago

common connector pipe can't be used as a chimney. In order to use that chimney one has to bring it up to UL 1777 and Ul 103 ht there are two way to do this one rip it out and install the right Ul approved class A or

I just though, why an I trying to help this dude that just ripped me and my profession ? So I'm not going to finish the complete list of a code compliant installation requirements.
 
Get off your high horse Elk. People come here for help, and sometimes you're a hardash and it tends to turn people away. He ripped you because you ripped him first.
 
Elk
Thanks for not rambling on I have no idea what UL 1777 and Ul 103 ht,s are any ways, Its all jibberish to me, I hope Imade it
clear that i am not a certified fireplace installer, But I bet with your Inspector background you picked up on that.
Elk, we just aint getting along so well are we ?
 
elkimmeg said:
No its not tough being an under paid inspector. First you have to establish documented experience in the field for 5 years. Then score better than 75% on the five test required to be a local inspector. The whole international code base, the one and two familly base code, plus the international use groups codes. After that, one has to pass the NFPA sprinkler code and NFPA fire alarm codes. That qualifies you to be a local inspector. To be a mechanical inspector, you face another battery of testing .To stay certified you must accumulate 45 contact hours within your appointment term. All that, then get hired by a town that pays you $30 per inspection and you drive your own car/truck.. But don't plan on making a living on 10 inspections this month, better have a decent full time job.

You never explained that your zc setup was 1 year old. What caused us to assume air cooled chimneys are not common , most were used 15 years ago

common connector pipe can't be used as a chimney. In order to use that chimney one has to bring it up to UL 1777 and Ul 103 ht there are two way to do this one rip it out and install the right Ul approved class A or

I just though, why an I trying to help this dude that just ripped me and my profession ? So I'm not going to finish the complete list of a code compliant installation requirements.
Peace brother man, let's play nice!
 
dakotarnk said:
The Lopi Insert weighs 300 lbs, It is zc rated. The zc fireplace is not ancient but only a year old. At the time a the one member started bashing me I had already decided to use a liner. I should be applauded that I searched a correct and safe way to install it instead of being scrutinized that I ask question, Not every one in this world can be an expert at installing fireplaces. I chose to ressearch this before I just dove in and relied on a friends advice of how to install a chimney. I still wonder if I need to insulate the chimney since it is indoors, also do I need to insulate around the insert. Dont mean to be any trouble. I hope this doesnt set off the inspector, I cant believe how much He knows about my situation with out me even telling him. The insert is said to be in
good shape by a lopi dealer who wanted to trade it out of me, When I get big maybe I can be an inspector, It cant be that tough. I also Am not asking the inspector for a permit.

ok good deal , now we be getting somewhere. do you know whats under the fireplace , will it support the weight? , if unsure it is not too tough to reinforce it. i apologise if i seemed harsh it was not meant to be insulting , just wanted you to know that. i am not familiar with the specs for that particular model so thats why i asked. Gooserider has you covered on the liner, im only posting to remind you to check out the weight issue. if good there then we can procede and plan out the installation.
 
I dont rember for sure how I have this constructed but I know It has 2x4 s with ply wood covered by metal. It sits directly above
2 floor joists. I know it can handle the load. I guess I am not sure about the zc itself , How do you know if that will hold it. I also did not sense you being harsh, but only concerned and helpful. Thanks.
 
dakotarnk said:
I dont rember for sure how I have this constructed but I know It has 2x4 s with ply wood covered by metal. It sits directly above
2 floor joists. I know it can handle the load. I guess I am not sure about the zc itself , How do you know if that will hold it. I also did not sense you being harsh, but only concerned and helpful. Thanks.

If you have two joists under it you should be fine. However I would also want to just double check - whas this ZC unit installed per it's manuals with all the clearances specified (ZC's aren't always "ZERO" clearance, though the requirements are a lot less... Was it inspected and passed after installation? Remember that the approval to install in the ZC unit is made on the assumption that the ZC is also installed properly.

(BTW the numbers that Elk was mentioning are some of the code references for the standards that must be met in order to have a safe install - covers things like putting insulation on the liner and so on.)

Gooserider
 
When I installed my Osburn 1800i in my Majestic I shored up the floor with metal stud sections in the lower air channel plus I laid a piece of durock on the floor of the fireplace to spread the load a bit. My Osburn has 4 feet that are essentially bolts, so at 315 that's nearly 90 lbs per foot with a full load of wood, I wanted that spread out a bit. The manual said that stove is rated to go into a Majestic, but I think the extra precaution was worth my peace of mind.
 
The zc was installed per all clearences, Was midly inspect by building inspector, but I dont think he really knew much about fireplaces, I think i can get under the unit to install some more bracing, here might be a dumb question but I wont know till I ask, the fire brick comes out of the fireplace before I install the insert right? Thanks for all the good advice, I also will refer to the manual that lopi emailed me.
 
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