Lopi Leydon Pellet, auger turns only high and...

[JMMello]

A few weeks ago i noticed the stove seemed to be burning hotter and going though the hopper supply faster, i run the stove on medium using a thermostat control on a wall around a corner, but i noticed the pellets dropping much faster then it should on medium. the board blinks for auger spin, but i noticed the auger is actually spinning at a continuous rate, no pausing as the board light blink indicates it should. its as if its on high, or "higher" even all the time. this causes the pot to be very full at cycle start, with often a few spilled off that slowly burn off as the stove gets hot.

but now as of yesterday, more odd behavior, the stove will not shut off. if i move the the switch to the center "off" (bottom is manual and top is thermostat/auto) position the auger still continues to spin, i have to unplug the stove to get the auger to stop, or have the switch in the off position and have the hopper door up - this will stop the auger.

is there a control/switch/? that could cause the auger to get 'stuck' on high or spin constantly?

 

[JMMello]

I found this thread with the solution being the polarity of the outlet, but my install has used this same outlet for 4 seasons now, its not a new install, yet the problem just started, but sounds very similar - auger turning non stop even with switch 'off'.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/problem-with-lopi-leyden-auger.27689/

Could it be the auger snap disc or flow switch (section 2-14) in this link? I have tried finding a travis service manual for a lopi leyden but have not yet found one http://www.burner.su/aditional/service guide.pdf

 

[heat seeker]

Sounds like the triac that drives the motor is shorted. They can be replaced inexpensively if you can solder on circuit boards, or know someone who can. Triacs are a few dollars.

Here are some examples of triacs: http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=triac&origkw=triac&sr=1

It's possible something else on the control board is bad, but the triac is the most likely suspect, IMO.

 

[JMMello]

Sounds like the triac that drives the motor is shorted. They can be replaced inexpensively if you can solder on circuit boards, or know someone who can. Triacs are a few dollars.

Here are some examples of triacs: http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=triac&origkw=triac&sr=1

It's possible something else on the control board is bad, but the triac is the most likely suspect, IMO.

i've done some some soldering. any link to a service manual to determine the TRIAC needed?

 

[heat seeker]

The triacs probably have standard numbers on them. Sorry, I have no useful links.