Yes it shows that fresh air is coming in there you would see the same at the back corners if there was a leak
Lopi Liberty split exterior welds
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Tomorrow I will let her burn down and really poke around in there. In the last month replaced door and glass gasket, sealed around flue and stove pipe just to make sure. Cleaned top of baffle bricks and all around up there. Up to now I had good luck with this unit and this season it's been eating wood. I burn a lot of Pin-Red Oak and Pine of all types. This is going to sound funny but, for whatever reason the Pines my long burn wood. The Oak is gone pretty quick. Today I cut a bunch of dead dry standing Maple and Oak and burns bout the same.
Well no, the gasket is Rutland and is the correct sizes from a Lopi dealer but, not OEM Lopi gasket.
It might still be doing ok, but the OEM gasket is far superior. If you compare the 2 side by side, the difference is obvious.
3650, I sold it on Craigslist. It was the best stove I ran so far. If I was to do it again, I would get the 30" for my set. Theres one in Bellingham craigslist for 900.00, wherever the hell that is.
Webby, funny you say that, when at the shop buying the gaskey we went to the floor model and compared the texture. It seemed the same, black rope gasket. Personally I prefer the white rope gasket material,it just seems put together better. The black is coarse in comparison.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
The OEM gaskets may also be different densities for different applications but if you compared 'em I guess the densities were close?
ailanthus
Feeling the Heat
realstihl
Minister of Fire
Try a tobacco shop. I found mine at a gas station-tobacco shop. I was amazed at the stuff that was legal for sale. Roll your own.
Yep, the Lopi gasket is a high density gasket. If the rutland is high density it will probably work ok but I prefer the OEM gaskets after having trouble with aftermarket ones.
I just stuck a feeler gauge in the crack to see If it was visible inside and it is not. Looked into the air holes on the step top and there is a 1.5" channel back there all across the back. I am satisfied the spot welds don't possess the burden of structural integrity on this stove. What might be worth pursuing is the air leak on the secondary pipe. Maybe some Rutland cement in that area might help. The price Lopi asks for their products is premium and seeing those split welds disappointed me. With that said the Liberty has done well and my only troubles were easily remedied by adding 2' to my Supervent chimney,replacing gaskets and cleaning the top of the baffle bricks.
I would not worry about that supposed leak on the secondary burn tube. Cement will not hold in the location. Are your roll pins still in place? It looks like it in the pic, there is 1 one left side and 2 on the right side facing the stove. The secondary burn tubes are no where near an airtight system, there is no reason to worry about it.
I agree totally i just pointed that out to show what an air wash mark would look like but it really should not cause much trouble
Yeah, I have backed away from the edge of the cliff for now. Yesterday I was ready to get a NC30 from Home Depot or get a Fisher. I got a Fisher XL anyways but, my Liberry will finish the season where it is. Kinda got the XL just cause it's rare and pretty but, I might just stuff it I my barn for now. Glass door is a big deal.
lopiliberty
Minister of Fire
Just looked it up online and found OEM gasket but it says its medium density. It looks exactly like the same gasket what came with my liberty
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