Lubrication of door latch

[rdrcr56]

What type of lubrication does everyone use on their door latch, if any. The latch on my homestead gets fairly hard to turn if left dry, I have to lube it about once a week, I was wondering if there's anything that lasts longer between applications?

 

[begreen]

graphite powder. you can find it at a hardware or automotive store. it's also sold for lubricating locks.

 

[Robbie]

Yes, sprinkle a little on your finger and rub it on latch, otherwise it will just fall of and be wasted.


Robbie

 

[Jimbob]

If you are looking for something to spray-on, this would work:
http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/Lubricants/Force842.asp

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I would also suggest a product like "anti-seize" or "never-seize" which also is available in an automotive store. My neighbor let me use some that he had; it's a paste consistency that I put on with a Q-tip. I found that it lasts a lot longer than graphite-a lot longer.

 

[n6crv]

I would also try the Anti-seize like PA said. When I had to remove my secondary burn tubes I used some on the screws. It is Nickel Anti-seize and saids it is a lubricant that protects metal parts from seizing and galling to 2400:F (1315:C) I hope that helps.
Don

 

[rdrcr56]

What needs lube is the rod of the latch passing through the door, what I have been doing is taking off the door, laying it flat and putting a few drops of oil on the rod where it turns in the door. I could do the anti-seize but I didn't want to take apart the latch, handle etc.

 

[begreen]

Yep, I thought so from your original post. If you are going through the trouble, might as well disassemble the latch and put graphite on the shaft. It will be captive and should last quite awhile.

 

[rdrcr56]

Graphite it is then, tanks much.

 

[begreen]

Also, examine the shaft. Is it rusted or pitted? You might try coarse steel wool on it before applying the graphite. Same for the bearing in the door.

 

[Highbeam]

My new Heritage quickly got really stiff and squeaky latches. I also found that the set screw was backing off. I used two products since there were two issues. First between the chrome handle and the cast iron door there looks to be a coil spring in there which applies pressure to a washer which rides on teh cast iron. This is the big trouble for me. The washer was stuck to the cast iron and the coil spring was turning on the washer which is not a smooth interface. I dribbled 90 weight gear oil down onto this thin washer from above while working the latch on teh cold stove. Success. The squeak was gone but the latch movement still felt gritty so I then grabbed my high temp black bearing grease for use on disc brakes. It is thick with a high drop point and I merely fingered a bit of this on the cam surface where the latch actually grabs and squeezes the cast iron hook on the stove.

My wife had been irked that the latches were so hard to twist. Even commented on how she felt the plastic flex. Now everything slides right in place. Oh and the set screws are to be tight. If you disassemble the latch for lubing be prepared for that coil spring to maybe have some tension?

Hearthstone recommended a product that spec'd out as anti-seize. There is high temp and regular anti-seize. I find the antiseize to be very messy and hard to clean up.

 

[begreen]

Thanks Highbeam. Without knowing the latch specifics, I was giving general info. Your tips are much more on target if the Homestead uses a similar latching setup.

 

[Gooserider]

High temp anti-seize is a FAR better solution than graphite, but as stated it is majorly messy - it will leave it's mark on anything that comes in contact with it, so be very careful when putting it on and be sure to clean all exposed surfaces well afterwards, but it WILL prevent further problems for a VERY long time - I'd expect it to work for at least a season or two.

In general the stuff is a mechanics friend - bolts and other parts put in with Never-Seize flat don't get corroded together, and come apart when they should. I even use it on automotive and motorcycle battery terminals - get ZERO corrosion, and even after a couple of years the bolts come out w/ no problem.

Gooserider

 

[Highbeam]

If you go the antiseize route don't be put off by the small size of the antiseize container. A little goes a long long ways. I am still using the same tube after about a decade of use on spark plugs, and bolts. It seems to have a metal content which might make me a little nervous about using it on battery terminals. For that there is another fine product, dielectric grease which is non-conductive. I use that stuff for all of my non soldered connections and plugs.

If the latch makes a scritch feel as you work it then you need to lube the coil spring/washer interface. If it makes a low tone rumble as you latch the door closed then you need to lube the door latch interface with the stove. I would lube both but the spring washer interface needs to be done with either a liquid or with some sort of disassembly.

 

[Gooserider]

If you go the antiseize route don't be put off by the small size of the antiseize container. A little goes a long long ways. I am still using the same tube after about a decade of use on spark plugs, and bolts. It seems to have a metal content which might make me a little nervous about using it on battery terminals. For that there is another fine product, dielectric grease which is non-conductive. I use that stuff for all of my non soldered connections and plugs.

If the latch makes a scritch feel as you work it then you need to lube the coil spring/washer interface. If it makes a low tone rumble as you latch the door closed then you need to lube the door latch interface with the stove. I would lube both but the spring washer interface needs to be done with either a liquid or with some sort of disassembly.

I've tried dielectric grease, doesn't work for beans compared to the way that Anti-seize works on battery terminals, or other isolated electrical connections - I wouldn't use it on something like a "finger connector" on a PC board, but it works great on molex plugs, spade-lug connectors and other such devices. I have attempted to measure the conductivity of Anti-seize and found that a standard digital VOM does not show ANY signs of current conduction for a measurably thick layer, but it does seem to improve conductivity between two contacts that are touching each other. OTOH Dielectric grease is intended to be an insulator - it is great at excluding oxidants, but it also blocks current flow unless the contact surfaces have managed to come together hard enough to rub through the grease layer.

Gooserider